1977 Scamp restoration project - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-21-2012, 12:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celeste View Post
The only thing I can think of is that it keeps the arm from going all the way through the slot in the window.
I think you're correct. There may be more attractive ways to do this... such as a key ring?
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:20 PM   #16
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Okay, today's project is to take all these windows apart, clean them, figure out which windows need what kinds of repairs, etc. So, my question of the moment is: what should I use to clean the aluminum?

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Old 01-21-2012, 12:26 PM   #17
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In particular, some of my windows are all covered with silicone caulking, so any advice on how to get it off would be great.

Celeste
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:34 PM   #18
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Okay, today's project is to take all these windows apart, clean them, figure out which windows need what kinds of repairs, etc. So, my question of the moment is: what should I use to clean the aluminum?

Thanks,
Celeste
Eagle Mag Wheel Cleaner, as per directions on container.

OK, sorry; just saw your post #17. Eagle won't help with the silicone removal. But is good otherwise for dull, tarnished and corroded aluminium.

Silicone is another matter.

Once it's all cleaned, some have used a clearcoat to protect the shine.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:56 PM   #19
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Thanks Clive. I will definitely pick that up. I think I am probably going to just have to pick at all that silicone by hand.

On the inside of one of the big windows. all the aluminum surfaces have been covered with foam tape. I think it is the same tape that it is used to cover the seams in the ensolite interior. It is al yellow and brittle, but really stuck on. So I am also dealing with removing that.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #20
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Celeste, when I took my windows apart I first soaked the piece in water, then used a SOS kitchen pad and lots of water to get the original grime and gunk off. I then used a course, then medium, then soft steel wool dipped in water to clean and shine each piece. It was a lot of work, but it made them look like new. The steel wool and elbow grease should work great in getting off the yellow foam tape gunk. I put a pan of water on our dinning room table, turned on some good music and just did a piece or two a night. In no time you'll have it all done.
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:16 PM   #21
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Thanks, Dan. Most of my problem with the windows, besides needing to replace the pivoting levers that hold the windows open, is that they are covered with silicone caulking. And there is probably no solution to that other than picking/peeling/scraping it off. Then I'll go at them as you advise, with varying grades of steel wool.

Celeste
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:59 PM   #22
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Yea, your probably right with the silicone caulking having to be picked/ scraped off. I was lucky to only have old butyl tape to take off. I hope your caulking peels off without to much problem. I did use an old screw driver and paint scraper with a razor blade in a couple of small area's. I was just real careful, because the aluminum was pretty soft and could be scored and marked up.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:49 PM   #23
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Hey Celeste

I just saw your post, I just bought a 1980 last weekend, and while my workload isnt as big as yours i still have a task (and a couple aluminum trailers too). I feel your pressure with the art shows, good luck with that.

I am sure that everyone would love to hear an update on how things are coming. hopefully well, and you havent thrown in the towel (and steel wool and buckets of water, and dirty old rags and. . . .. )

Someone gave advice above to do a little here and a little there.

I know on my other campers, its kind of a "what do I feel like tonite" kind of thing, and that definitely helps me keep my sanity.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:56 PM   #24
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silicone caulking...probably no solution to that other than picking/peeling/scraping it off. Celeste
Celeste, check out this thread:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ver-51074.html
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:41 PM   #25
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Hi Raz,

I think that yes, water did get inside at some point. But the floors seem solid as does the frame. I had the axle checked out and the bearings repacked before I towed it home from Michigan to New York.

Celeste
My '76 is/was almost identical to yours in both options and condition.(Minus your awesome front and rear windows)

I pulled my rotted rear floor and found out that Scamp used 5/8 3ply interior plywood for all of the floors. Inspect your floors very, very closely. The slightest bit of sustained moisture will cause interior plywood to de-laminate and, with only 3 plys, you don't have much to work with.

Congradulations and good luck with your new adventure.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:42 PM   #26
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Bar Keepers Friend is good on Alum. windows, with a stiff brush. I too have those windows. Have a thread on refurbishing my 77 scamp http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/refurbishing-my-77-scamp-51268.html note I said refurbishing, mine is pretty usable as is but needs some work to deal with the years.


Donna's link here or on my thread will lead you to a source for two parts you need. The plastic strip that wedges the plexi glass in from the outside and seals the glass. And the rubber seal that goes on the inside of the window frame to seal the window when closed.


That wire on the arm may be because the clip that the arm folds up and locks behind is missing. May have been used to clip the arm "up" to latch the window. I don't have anything but the rubber ends on mine.


I find those green plastic scrubbing pads work pretty good to get caulk off. You will learn to hate silicon caulk.


Scamp store online has the butl putty tape that is normally used to seal the window to the wall of the trailer. If you call in your order sometimes they can ship US postal which is cheaper than the online UPS shipping. They still have a lot of basic parts which is really cool if you ask me.


Those window prop arms are like gold. Only way to replace them is to find a scrap window. There was a thread here on buying ones from Vintage Trailer that are not the correct size but a machine shop or maybe welder can re-work them. If you know someone who does art work in metal....

Don't sweat finding the screen spline (rubber tube) that holds the screen in. They make that stuff in massive number of sizes, just take sample and look for places that repair screens. While your at it see if they have alum. screen or plastic. Steel screen and alum frame cause mutal corrosion if in contact with each other.


You can use epoxy to patch rivet holes, just spread thin on back, scrape of excess on front, once it hardens re-drill. But wait until you have rivets to see if you need to patch, rivets can self adjust a little.
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