1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 10 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2013, 02:53 PM   #127
jmh
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Slav,

Have you considered using 3/8 or 1/2 inch foam insulation rather than reflectix?
A 1/4 layer of plywood on top should be enough to prevent it from compressing.
Then add the final flooring material on top of that.

Jim
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:15 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmh View Post
Slav,

Have you considered using 3/8 or 1/2 inch foam insulation rather than reflectix?
A 1/4 layer of plywood on top should be enough to prevent it from compressing.
Then add the final flooring material on top of that.

Jim
Jim, yes, I have given that a little thought but I am worried about the fact that the Boler's body will be bolted to the frame thru the ply and FG floor. Since the foam insulation is really weak, I see it crumbling eventually and the body would become loose in its attachment. Possibly break away during a trip and fly off and I'd be left with just the frame!

I guess at the attachment points I could cut out the foam insulation and insert ply blocks. In the end, not sure it is worth the effort.

Have you actually installed insulation in your rig? If so, have you noticed a drastic improvement in temperature stability inside? Thanks.

Slav
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:18 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
The oscillating cutter worked very well and a panel was cut out on the right side just inside the entry.
Great thread, I am following it closely, thanks to you and all the responders. Love learning, hopefully I will never have to go to this length with my scamp, but who knows.

Quick question, you said the oscillating cutter worked great, what blade did you use with the cutter. thanks. . jimbo
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:15 PM   #130
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[QUOTE=Quick question, you said the oscillating cutter worked great, what blade did you use with the cutter.[/QUOTE]

Hey Jimbo, thanks, glad you are enjoying the thread!

I got the cutter at Harbor Freight and it came with a few attachments. The one that proved the most powerful for all the FG cutting I've done is the half-moon blade. Go slow with it as to not burn it out. It has no label on it, but looks just like the one for cutting wood/metal/plastic (fine teeth).

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Old 06-14-2013, 05:38 PM   #131
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Thanks, I may just have to stop by harbor freight and pick one (or more) up.

Your motivation is overwhelming.

Thanks again for all the detailed updates.

Fiberglass repair is my next "attempt" ; )
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:01 PM   #132
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Thanks, I may just have to stop by harbor freight and pick one (or more) up.

Your motivation is overwhelming.

Thanks again for all the detailed updates.

Fiberglass repair is my next "attempt" ; )
It has been a fun project for the most part! We hope to enjoy this for a long time, so I'd like to get it done to the best of my ability...and I'm learning along the way!

Always feel free to ask questions...FG is not bad to work with, just have the proper safety equipment. You'll go thru a lot of Nitrile gloves and disposable brushes, so get lots from Harbor Freight.

Slav
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:24 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmh View Post
Have you considered using 3/8 or 1/2 inch foam insulation rather than reflectix?
A 1/4 layer of plywood on top should be enough to prevent it from compressing.
Then add the final flooring material on top of that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
Jim, yes, I have given that a little thought but I am worried about the fact that the Boler's body will be bolted to the frame thru the ply and FG floor. Since the foam insulation is really weak, I see it crumbling eventually and the body would become loose in its attachment.
Common extruded polystyrene foam brands - such as Styrofoam - include high-density versions of the product which are intended for use under floors, and suitable for supporting concrete slabs - would that be too weak? I agree that junk polystyrene "beadboard" would likely crumble.

Suitable foam may not be available in a desirably thin thickness.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:45 PM   #134
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In my case I just cut the foam to fit around the cabinets and benches, it does not go under them where they attach to the floor. I have not had a chance to test it out in cold weather so I can't say how well it will work but it I'm sure it will help keep some heat inside.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:37 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Common extruded polystyrene foam brands - such as Styrofoam - include high-density versions of the product which are intended for use under floors, and suitable for supporting concrete slabs - would that be too weak? I agree that junk polystyrene "beadboard" would likely crumble.

Suitable foam may not be available in a desirably thin thickness.
Brian, got it, thanks for the explanation. I wasn't aware of my options. I just got the regular junk beadboard (the white stuff that gets all over the place) to use for cutting out forms for the floor. That was all I saw at Lowe's. Now I see that Home Depot has the high-density stuff that Luis in Alberta was using for cutting cabinetry forms.

You are right though, looks like 3/4" is the thinnest it comes in, and HD only had 1" thick. That would really cut down on my standing room inside.

Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmh View Post
In my case I just cut the foam to fit around the cabinets and benches, it does not go under them where they attach to the floor. I have not had a chance to test it out in cold weather so I can't say how well it will work but it I'm sure it will help keep some heat inside.
Jim, this sounds like a possibility. I think I'm just going to not worry about it under my floor since I'll have the 1/4" FG, the 3/4" ply, and the final flooring on top, whatever it will be.
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:46 PM   #136
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Cool Gear!

Hey Everyone,

Just wanted to share a couple items we picked up from Jenny Wood, a fellow Scamp owner and artist. We got a cool tote bag and a key-chain to hold all our Boler keys. She has a store on Etsy.

The bag and keychain:

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Old 06-14-2013, 10:19 PM   #137
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Very cute, would make nice gifts for fiberglass friends also.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:28 PM   #138
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Very cute, would make nice gifts for fiberglass friends also.
Now that's a fine idea!
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:12 PM   #139
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Floor Work Begins

As I've mentioned before, we got nice quality plywood for our subfloor that is 3/4" thick, and has an A side (nice) and a C side (not so nice). I wanted the A side so I don't have to sand it and can easily lay the final flooring on top without much fussing.

I thought this process was going to be easier...but I think I'll give up on the notion of anything being easy with this project!

Anyways, I started by cutting a template for the entry-level floor from 1/2" thick styrofoam insulation. That was easy enough:

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Used that for tracing onto the ply. But due to unevenness of the FG floor, and rounded FG where the various floor pieces come together, it took some 12 or so times I had to take the board in and out to make all the adjustments. Took a lot longer than I had hoped, but at least this part is good and to my liking.

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The entry is a bit screwy. The FG of the body has an up-turned and angled lip with variable thickness FG that is not even remotely straight. This caused some extra issues before I got it good. But I'm not quite sure how to finish this off once the floor will be laid down.

Do I use some sort of aluminum strip to cover the gap? And squirt in caulk to prevent water from going UNDER the floor? Or do I make a small mold and pour in a bunch of resin to make this squared off? What do you guys think? Can you provide pics of what your campers have here? Thanks.

Here you have a couple pics of what I'm faced with:

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Old 06-16-2013, 03:26 PM   #140
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Can you get a bunch of C clamps and then squirt the correct adhesive in there ( I say correct because not sure what it would be yet or what base) and then let it cure???
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