1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 11 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-16-2013, 10:37 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by GMike A View Post
Can you get a bunch of C clamps and then squirt the correct adhesive in there ( I say correct because not sure what it would be yet or what base) and then let it cure???
Mike, yes that could be done, but my plan is to bolt the ply rather than using glue...just in case down the road I have to replace the floor board.
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:08 AM   #142
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Mike, yes that could be done, but my plan is to bolt the ply rather than using glue...just in case down the road I have to replace the floor board.
What I have done one time is to mix a suitable filler (in this case, Bondo would be perfectly good enough) and put it in place. Before putting the ply on top, cover the filler with a layer of light plastic (cling-film = US seran-wrap?) as a non-stick coating. Once the clamped filler has gone hard, bolts can be added as required.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:25 PM   #143
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What I have done one time is to mix a suitable filler (in this case, Bondo would be perfectly good enough) and put it in place. Before putting the ply on top, cover the filler with a layer of light plastic (cling-film = US seran-wrap?) as a non-stick coating. Once the clamped filler has gone hard, bolts can be added as required.
Thanks Andrew, I'll consider this. May be a very good option indeed.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:46 PM   #144
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Thanks for posting my stuff! I'm glad you like it.
Great job on your Boler!
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:53 PM   #145
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Floor finishing entryway

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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
As I've mentioned before, we got nice quality plywood for our subfloor that is 3/4" thick, and has an A side (nice) and a C side (not so nice). I wanted the A side so I don't have to sand it and can easily lay the final flooring on top without much fussing.

I thought this process was going to be easier...but I think I'll give up on the notion of anything being easy with this project!

Anyways, I started by cutting a template for the entry-level floor from 1/2" thick styrofoam insulation. That was easy enough:

Attachment 60636

Used that for tracing onto the ply. But due to unevenness of the FG floor, and rounded FG where the various floor pieces come together, it took some 12 or so times I had to take the board in and out to make all the adjustments. Took a lot longer than I had hoped, but at least this part is good and to my liking.

Attachment 60637

The entry is a bit screwy. The FG of the body has an up-turned and angled lip with variable thickness FG that is not even remotely straight. This caused some extra issues before I got it good. But I'm not quite sure how to finish this off once the floor will be laid down.

Do I use some sort of aluminum strip to cover the gap? And squirt in caulk to prevent water from going UNDER the floor? Or do I make a small mold and pour in a bunch of resin to make this squared off? What do you guys think? Can you provide pics of what your campers have here? Thanks.

Here you have a couple pics of what I'm faced with:

Hello Slav, I think I cut my templates and had to try the Plywood only 9 times... As for the irregular finishing on the entryway, same challenge here.

I am inclined to use some type of metal (aluminum or bronze) strip to finish this area. Remember it will also have to hold/ Cover the final flooring.
Are you planning on carpet, rubber, vinyl, or snap engineered hardwood flooring/ cork, other?

The biggest concern with your underlay flloring is moisture/ water getting between 1/4 FG and the 3/4 Ply! if it does, you will never get it out and rot and smell may start... Perhaps its better to seal every thing with adhesives...

Cheers,
L
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #146
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Thanks for posting my stuff! I'm glad you like it.
Great job on your Boler!
Jenny, you're welcome. Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by Luis View Post
I am inclined to use some type of metal (aluminum or bronze) strip to finish this area. Remember it will also have to hold/ Cover the final flooring.
Are you planning on carpet, rubber, vinyl, or snap engineered hardwood flooring/ cork, other?

The biggest concern with your underlay flloring is moisture/ water getting between 1/4 FG and the 3/4 Ply! if it does, you will never get it out and rot and smell may start... Perhaps its better to seal every thing with adhesives...
Luis,

As for the flooring type, I am at this point inclined to go with cork tiles (their renewable, don't absorb water, easy to clean, and look cool).

I think I may make a little dam between the entry FG and the 3/4" ply and pour in resin to straighten up the whole thing. Then squirt in caulk (unless there is a better thing...anyone?) to totally fill the gap and prevent any water getting in under the wood from the entry. Once the final floor is put in, finish it off with an aluminum strip.

After all the subfloor ply is put in, I'll put a bead of caulk all around its perimeter to keep any water out, should anything happen. I really don't want to use adhesive UNDER the ply just in case some years down the road I have to replace the subfloor. It would be a disaster if it was glued down!

Oh, and I plan to paint the subfloor (on all sides) with the same gray epoxy floor paint that the FG is getting. This should give the wood additional moisture resistance.

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:50 PM   #147
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Are you going to make the doorway entry wood a separate piece like AxB wide that you can take out if that section becomes damaged rather then cut it out at a later date. Just a question.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #148
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Are you going to make the doorway entry wood a separate piece like AxB wide that you can take out if that section becomes damaged rather then cut it out at a later date. Just a question.
Mike, well, was planning on leaving it one piece as it is now, but I can see a reason to have another piece for the front area! Are you trying to complicate my life?!

Slav
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:42 AM   #149
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Floor Work

A few days ago I was able to get the next big floor panel cut for the dining/bedding area. I first tried using the styrofoam insulation to cut a template but that ended in disaster with foam pieces all over the place...just what I needed.

Needed a new solution to trace the curves. Ended up taping together three pieces of all-purpose heavy paper and that allowed for much easier creasing, tracing and cutting.

Click image for larger version

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Took that and transferred the template to my 3/4" plywood, put the jigsaw to work, threw it back inside and it fit the first time almost perfectly. After a couple adjustments, I was very pleased with the overall fit. (Note the removed rear light cups. Will be modifying those in the near future.)

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A view through the back window to show the curves going around the wheel wells.

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Old 06-25-2013, 03:44 AM   #150
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First class job Slav. Very envious of your work. Hope mine turns out half that good. that butcher type wrapping paper is a good idea.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:46 AM   #151
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First class job Slav. Very envious of your work. Hope mine turns out half that good. that butcher type wrapping paper is a good idea.
Thanks Mike! I'm sure your rig will come out just beautiful.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:26 AM   #152
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Slav,

Have you considered using 3/8 or 1/2 inch foam insulation rather than reflectix?
A 1/4 layer of plywood on top should be enough to prevent it from compressing.
Then add the final flooring material on top of that.

Jim
I realize this is a bit late in the process. Rather than foam, how about the stuff they use in basements that comes in 4x8 sheets.
DELTA®-FL - Vapor Barrier for installation on concrete slabs, provides a warm and dry floor

Great work and documentation Slav. A thread that will benefit many in the future.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #153
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I realize this is a bit late in the process. Rather than foam, how about the stuff they use in basements that comes in 4x8 sheets.
DELTA®-FL - Vapor Barrier for installation on concrete slabs, provides a warm and dry floor

Great work and documentation Slav. A thread that will benefit many in the future.
Hi Roy, this looks like an interesting product; probably better than other choices. I haven't yet bolted down the subfloor, but the panels are already cut out from 3/4" ply. I think I am going to just leave it at that as by the time I add the final flooring, I'm going to have about 1/4 - 1/2" clearance while standing in there. With any insulation under the floor I'll be losing my hair on the ceiling cover!

Slav
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #154
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My same issue, unless I can shave off some inches from my height, I cant be placing more substrated and finishes or I will become the hunch-man!

Regards,
L
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