1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 16 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-21-2014, 02:01 PM   #211
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Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
Finally got a day I could put some more hard work into the Boler. First, wanted to get that belly band taken off and see how things looked underneath. It will need to be restored and shined up for sure. I plan to use stainless screws (anyone know if stainless and aluminum will react unfavorably?) instead of rivets. Not sure yet if only drilled into the top or all the way thru. Guess it would be cleaner to not drill thru the bottom of the band.

Attachment 75228

As expected, under the band could almost make a guy cry. Filthy and kind of rotten in places. This one is on the driver side of the rig:

Attachment 75229

And this one to the right of the door. You can really see how gross and frayed things look:

Attachment 75230

What I'd like to do with this is clean it up as good as possible (any suggestions? acetone? water? soap?) and put a bead of something into the gap just to seal it up from future gunk buildup. I was thinking of some liquid rubber, if there is such a thing. Or there is that tar in a tube for roofing. Or would silicone be good enough? Doesn't need to be pretty, just functional.

Thanks for any tips!

I suggest sandblasting (or soda Blasting) the area you want to clean up.
Soda blasting is a bit less coarse than sand.

If you are in Calgary area there is one shop that does this near 50th AV. south.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:44 PM   #212
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis View Post
I suggest sandblasting (or soda Blasting) the area you want to clean up.
Soda blasting is a bit less coarse than sand.

If you are in Calgary area there is one shop that does this near 50th AV. south.
Hey Luis, I don't think I can do that myself and I'm definitely out of range of Calgary! I'm in the Seattle area...
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:53 PM   #213
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Trailer: 1978 Boler
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Originally Posted by Chris73 View Post
My trailer is very similar to a Boler. I was curious as to how the frame project came out. Did you remove the rust and repaint? I found a crack in my frame (1973 trailer), so I'm juggling different ideas: fix/strengthen or have a whole new frame made. Not sure yet. It looked pretty easy to separate the body from the frame on yours. I don't think mine would be quite as easy. What is the floor? Fiberglass? Mine is a thick, plywood floor, attached to the body via bolts, rivets, and fiberglass overlay. Interesting design. =P Thanks!

Chris
Portland, OR
Hey Chris,

If you follow my posts from the start you'll see our frame was in pretty poor state. The welds looked crappy, the whole thing was eaten by rust, and I've read too many stories of those frames breaking. We went ahead and had a local shop build us a new one with much better steel and with some modifications. Also got a new axle with e-brakes. All that is in this thread.

Our floor is FG, no wood, so that was nice but we had to be careful not to break it while lifting because it is only about 1/4 inch thick or less.

Have a look at Robert Johans' work on a 1971 Boler with wood floor here.

If you plan on using the trailer for years to come, I'd suggest a new frame and axle for peace of mind. Let me know if you have any other questions!

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 08-21-2014, 04:13 PM   #214
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Outside Shell Prep

After getting the belly band off I suited up fully, put a respirator mask on and goggles and fired up the grinder. My goal is to make the tail light cups flush with the body and essentially one with it, rather than the afterthought cups that they are. I'm not sure yet which way it will go, whether I'll cut off the flange on the cups and glass them in, or grind out a trough around the light openings deep enough to recess the flange and then smooth it out with some extra FG and filler. The inside would be glassed as well for solid strength. For now, I ground off the gelcoat plus a bit more:

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As was suggested here on the forum, I got to grinding out a trough on the outside of all the patched-in holes and window mods so I can lay down FG mat for super strength. Here are the windows:

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And the former vents, holes, etc.:

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The body is of course full of rivet and screw holes. Most of these I've patched from the inside using FG mat, but they still need help on the outside. I hit each hole with a conical grinder drill bit to make a trough and expose fresh surface that filler can bite into.

As I've mentioned in an earlier post, one of the rear upper corners was crushed by the previous owner and patched very poorly. It will be quite a bit of work to redeem this corner. I started by grinding out the cracks on the inside (from top to bottom this section is about 15 inches or so). The big patch will most likely come out, or maybe I'll just glass things in nice and solid. Outside will be even more effort but I'm not there yet.

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Seemed like the longer I was grinding the shell the slower the RPMs were going on the grinder. Wonder if it is simply the quality of Harbor Freight equipment. Hopefully it will last a bit longer for me to finish up the grinding. This is dirty work and I am looking forward to getting at least the shell finished up sooner than later. I cleaned things up with acetone and she went back to the garage...

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Old 08-22-2014, 11:56 AM   #215
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Name: Kent
Trailer: 1974 1300 Boler
Manitoba
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Slava:

You were talking about insulating your floor. I would recommend Dynamat, dynaliner.

It is a self-adhesive closed cell rubber mat used in the hotrod custom car world.

Check it out here: Dynamat.com | Dynaliner for Automotive Use

You can put carpet or flooring directly over it.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:02 PM   #216
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Hi Slav, nice job! What are your plans for covering the fiberglass on the inside? I'm fixing up a Trillium and have some doubts about ensolite (cost, adhesion, durability). I'm wondering if there are sprayable products with some sound and temperature insulation properties. Regards, Steve.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:36 AM   #217
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Looks good Slav. You can have a career working with Robert J. if you want
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:17 AM   #218
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Excellent glass work here,,,,Fiberglass Dave
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:34 PM   #219
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Looks good Slav. You can have a career working with Robert J. if you want
Thanks Mike! Put in a full day on the Boler yesterday, more pics will be posted later in the week. Not sure I'd want to do this for a living, but it certainly is fun to see the project moving along.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:34 PM   #220
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Excellent glass work here,,,,Fiberglass Dave
Thanks Dave! And many thanks for your suggestions over the course of the project.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:44 PM   #221
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Originally Posted by 1979Trillium View Post
Hi Slav, nice job! What are your plans for covering the fiberglass on the inside? I'm fixing up a Trillium and have some doubts about ensolite (cost, adhesion, durability). I'm wondering if there are sprayable products with some sound and temperature insulation properties. Regards, Steve.
Hi Steve, thanks for stopping by! I'm going to use Reflectix insulation (as many have on the forum) and then cover it with marine Hulliner. Another option is to buy covering from Scamp, but after I got a sample I found it too thick/shaggy. Much more prefer Hulliner.

Look at Robert Johans' fine work, and in post #85 he talks about Weldwood contact cement - pick it up at your local home improvement store. I'm probably just going to use a brush to apply it, but a cheap sprayer seems a good option as well. Same post, you see Reflectix on the walls (also from home improvement store).

Here is some info on Hulliner: store link.

Let me know if you have other questions!

Slav
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:22 PM   #222
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Thanks, those links are very helpful. Steve
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:48 PM   #223
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Fiberglassing Update

After grinding out troughs on the outside of the body over the seams where I patched in FG and modified window openings, it was time to get it all filled in for strength with FG mat. As was recommended, I put down two layers of FG mat over the outside seams. It will just take some sanding to get it all smooth and then touched up with body filler.

The first window I modified just didn't look good. The FG dried rippled and I wasn't excited about trying to fix it. So, cut out my effort and glassed in another spare piece of FG, then ground out a trough for FG mat (still to do):

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One of the corners with extra glass and mat on the outside:

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The former fridge and furnace vent holes, from the outside with glass and two layers of mat:

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And finally closed up the two port holes. I don't even remember what they were for. We'll be putting port holes in different places than the original design. I wish the serial number was still visible, but nothing. I guess I'll never know.

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More to come, of course....

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Old 09-02-2014, 08:55 PM   #224
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Sticker - What's that number?

Hey, speaking of stickers, does anyone know what the "976" inside the leaf stand for? Is that some permit number or ??? Thanks.

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