1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-22-2013, 10:52 PM   #57
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Name: kootenai girl
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Really like the Boler letters and a great price.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:14 PM   #58
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Slav

have you started to fix the areas where you have cut out the body for the frame? If you haven't, I was thinking that if you cut some foam, to the same shape, cover with cellophane, (I don't know if the resin will eat the foam), put it in place cover it, leave it in place. This could be altogether obvious!

Later Kenny
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:12 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Kenny Strong View Post
Slav

have you started to fix the areas where you have cut out the body for the frame? If you haven't, I was thinking that if you cut some foam, to the same shape, cover with cellophane, (I don't know if the resin will eat the foam), put it in place cover it, leave it in place. This could be altogether obvious!

Later Kenny
Hey Kenny,

Haven't started yet, but want to start this weekend. I like the idea of the foam. I was wondering what the best way would be to cover up the cut-outs. I was thinking of sanding the area around and then just put resin saturated mat over the openings, then smooth it out with Bondo. From the inside, I would build up the mat with resin to match the thickness of the body.

Slav
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:04 PM   #60
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What Bolt Size to Use for Carriage to Frame Attachment?

The attachment points (6) we have on the frame are pre-drilled with 3/8" openings. Is this bolt thickness sufficient or should I enlarge them to take 1/2" bolts, at least for the four major anchor points?

Would appreciate comments on this. Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #61
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Foam Tape

The old frame caused damage to the underside of the carriage by grinding out some of the fiberglass and depositing a good bit of rust. I'm going to have to put down (or rather up!) some fiberglass mat in these channels for strength before basting the whole underside with Herculiner.

Here are a couple pics of the damage:

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In order to have a bit of a barrier between the new frame and the carriage, I've decided to use a truck canopy foam tape "seal". This is sticky on one side, made of closed-cell high-density foam (so they say). Picked it up at Lowe's for about $6 per 30 ft roll - got two rolls and have a few feet left. (This is similar, I believe, to what Robert Johans used on his 1974 Boler renovation.)

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Here is the frame with the tape on. I left the protective paper on for now, but will remove it right before the carriage goes back down.

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Old 02-25-2013, 02:39 AM   #62
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S & H,
Really nice work on your BOLER so far! Look forward to see how it moves forward and how the finished product looks like!

I also have a full FG body on a clean frame, 79 model boler and have spent most if my planning time looking at interior design desition a, floor an etc.

I am yet to begin improving the chassis to body match ( I need to replace screws , etc, and complete frame / suspension mods (previous owner instAlled rigid axle on leaf springs....!)

I'll post some pics and start a Reno thread for you all to check out!
Keep up the good work,

Cheers,
L
E
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:28 AM   #63
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S & H,
Really nice work on your BOLER so far! Look forward to see how it moves forward and how the finished product looks like!

I also have a full FG body on a clean frame, 79 model boler and have spent most if my planning time looking at interior design desition a, floor an etc.

I am yet to begin improving the chassis to body match ( I need to replace screws , etc, and complete frame / suspension mods (previous owner instAlled rigid axle on leaf springs....!)

I'll post some pics and start a Reno thread for you all to check out!
Keep up the good work,

Cheers,
L
E
Thanks Luis! Looking forward to seeing your progress as well!

Slav
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:26 PM   #64
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hey slav

I going to use the same camper seal on my uhaul. i hope it works. are you putting anything else between the shell and the frame or just the camper seal?
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #65
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Of course, I can't see or scratch my fingernails into the damage in those photos, but it doesn't look severe enough to need repair. If it did need repair (say, it had lost a quarter of its original thickness), adding glass to the top side rather than underneath would be perfectly good enough - unless you want a cosmetically perfect repair, which would seem a bit extreme on the underside of your trailer.

The foam tape looks a good plan to stop the problem continuing.

For the channel repairs, I would be tempted to pack out the sides of the new frame and then cover it all over in plastic sheet (brown plastic packaging tape is another good rough-and-ready release agent). You could then drop the body over the frame and simply laminate onto the existing body and the plastic. It would be good to lift the body and remove the packing/plastic, but not essential except for a nice appearance.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:25 PM   #66
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hey slav

I going to use the same camper seal on my uhaul. i hope it works. are you putting anything else between the shell and the frame or just the camper seal?
Hey Andrew, I'm planning on putting down the camper seal only. I originally thought of putting something thicker (made also of foam but with two air pockets/channels - these were used in the camper shell industry before everyone went "cheap"), but I'm hoping this will be sufficient for the job.

Slav
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post
Of course, I can't see or scratch my fingernails into the damage in those photos, but it doesn't look severe enough to need repair. If it did need repair (say, it had lost a quarter of its original thickness), adding glass to the top side rather than underneath would be perfectly good enough - unless you want a cosmetically perfect repair, which would seem a bit extreme on the underside of your trailer.

The foam tape looks a good plan to stop the problem continuing.

For the channel repairs, I would be tempted to pack out the sides of the new frame and then cover it all over in plastic sheet (brown plastic packaging tape is another good rough-and-ready release agent). You could then drop the body over the frame and simply laminate onto the existing body and the plastic. It would be good to lift the body and remove the packing/plastic, but not essential except for a nice appearance.
Andrew, you are right, most of the deposited rust is just that. But in the first pic in my post #61 the fiberglass is actually gouged out a couple millimeters and for that reason I was going to put a layer or two of mat. I think that will be sufficient and once coated with the truck bed-liner type of stuff the whole thing should be good and strong.

Thanks for your suggestions!

Slav
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:41 PM   #68
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Trailer: 1973 Boler
Alberta
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Slav, I've been following your build on your 78. We have a 73 13 ft. I have a few questions. I need to change my axle as well. Did you phone Dexter direct for the info on it or was it a dealer. I sell trailers with these axles under them but they 7,8 and 10#. You were mentioning a #9 axle, is that what we need for a Boler or is that what they came up with. I just read the last of your thread today. Have you had the trailer on the ground yet, and if so how far is the body of the trailer off the ground. Our tow vehicle is a 70 Chevelle and I'm interested in how it sits. Just looking at your new frame, makes me think that I should do the same thing. Looking underneath, it don't look so good. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build.
Vic.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:44 PM   #69
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Slav, I've been following your build on your 78. We have a 73 13 ft. I have a few questions. I need to change my axle as well. Did you phone Dexter direct for the info on it or was it a dealer. I sell trailers with these axles under them but they 7,8 and 10#. You were mentioning a #9 axle, is that what we need for a Boler or is that what they came up with. I just read the last of your thread today. Have you had the trailer on the ground yet, and if so how far is the body of the trailer off the ground. Our tow vehicle is a 70 Chevelle and I'm interested in how it sits. Just looking at your new frame, makes me think that I should do the same thing. Looking underneath, it don't look so good. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build.
Vic.
Hi Vic,

I went thru a local dealer to get the #9 axle. You may be able to get the axle direct from Dexter, but if not, they should be able to get you a distributor list closest to your area (I know there is a dealer in Canada that many people have used with great experience, but can't remember who it is...drop Donna D. a message and she should know it).

The #9 is the appropriate weight for our 13 ft Bolers and Scamps - when you're talking about the Torflex axle (many people have used this and that is how we knew what to do).

Remember that you will probably have a leading axle but I recommend you switch to a trailing when you get it. At the welder, they'll be able to calculate the positioning (the hubs basically need to be in the same place as your old one, the rest is easy). Also get the e-brakes (magnetic brakes) as I understand they are a huge help when braking. Your car will need a 7-pin connector.

Before you can order the axle, you'll need to pull out the old frame, remove the wheels and make very careful measurements based on Dexter's instructions. It is easy, but measure 3 times because the sales are final since the axles are made custom.

Yes, I had lowered the body back on the new frame several times for adjustments, but don't have any pics...will hopefully soon. I'm working on the underside right now. It sits great, so much better than before (it was almost bottomed out before). I should mention we went with a 10 degree DOWN axle and a high profile mounting bracket that gives it about another 1 inch rise. This doesn't make it crazy looking but will be high enough to go on even rough dirt roads.

If you plan to enjoy your trailer for a long time, definitely consider having a new frame made with modifications.

If you haven't done it yet, do start a thread for your renovations. We all love to see and share ideas! Feel free to ask other questions.

Best,
Slav
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:43 PM   #70
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Thanks for that Slav. I've sent a note to Donna and I'll wait for answer. In the mean trime I will get together with our service manager tomorrow and make some calls. When the time comes I'll send along some pics.
Vic.
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