1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #71
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Name: Vic
Trailer: 1973 Boler
Alberta
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Someone has change the axle. It has a spring set up under it now. The one thing I don't like is it sits way to high for the car. I was under it last summer and it looks like the flooring has been change. It has a presure treated floor under it and when installed it, they screwed the flooring down from the top. So like it has 100 screws coming down through the framing. I don't remember the four mounting pionts you were talking about. I'll have to waite until the weather gets warmer, because the shop is small and the car will have to be outside to do the work. Thanks again, Vic.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:38 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by vics454 View Post
Someone has change the axle. It has a spring set up under it now. The one thing I don't like is it sits way to high for the car. I was under it last summer and it looks like the flooring has been change. It has a presure treated floor under it and when installed it, they screwed the flooring down from the top. So like it has 100 screws coming down through the framing. I don't remember the four mounting pionts you were talking about. I'll have to waite until the weather gets warmer, because the shop is small and the car will have to be outside to do the work. Thanks again, Vic.
Vic,

The older Bolers had a wood floor that was glassed in. Ours is one piece molded fiberglass, so the frame anchor points are different from yours. Have a look at Robert Johans' 1974 Boler reno, that should be more like yours.

Slav
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:03 AM   #73
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Wheel Well Issue...Or Is It?

Seems like every Boler I've seen on this forum has wheel wells that are flat on top and attach direct to the wall giving plenty of space for your tires. Well, we ended up with some screwy ones that are "mounds"...for skinny bicycle tires it seems!

The way it is, the outsides of the tire/wheel will likely hit the wheel well side on bigger bumps or rough roads. (But I don't know how much movement the 10 degree down axle will have in the up motion.) I am thinking I might have to cut out the problem area (marked with red arrow in the below pic) and glass in a shape that will give more space to the wheels.

Thoughts on this?

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Old 02-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #74
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That looks like an easy fix. Carefully cut it away from the outside wall, trim it up to where you want it, then box it in. It is an area that won't be seen so doesn't have to be pretty just strong.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:29 PM   #75
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Wheel wells

Slav, here are the pics from my reno.
Also separate wheel wells (not attached to wall)

i think it depends what axle/suspension set up installed, and also wheel and tire size, but I have not noted any interference due to this separate WW design.

In my case i was focusing on a problem my leaf spring set up is causing the underside. I will open a tread to get feed back so I look forward to valuable comments.

Hope the pics help. One is from the outside ! that is underside of WW.
Cheers
L

PD The WW in your pic Slav looks much "thinner" that in my Boler. Perhaps that is why you are seeing the tires interfere with the well....
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:30 AM   #76
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Slav, here are the pics from my reno.
Also separate wheel wells (not attached to wall)

i think it depends what axle/suspension set up installed, and also wheel and tire size, but I have not noted any interference due to this separate WW design.

In my case i was focusing on a problem my leaf spring set up is causing the underside. I will open a tread to get feed back so I look forward to valuable comments.

Hope the pics help. One is from the outside ! that is underside of WW.
Cheers
L

PD The WW in your pic Slav looks much "thinner" that in my Boler. Perhaps that is why you are seeing the tires interfere with the well....
Wow, looks like yours indeed are wider than ours. Seems like Boler was experimenting with just about everything and there is no consistency. I guess I'll have to hack them open and do a modification.

Thanks again.

Man, that looks like metal is crumpled in that 3rd pic.

Slav
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:51 AM   #77
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Amazing! Well done.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:22 PM   #78
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Just think, when you get the back side of the wheel well removed and glassed in to the wall, you can put huge width tires on. Like the Harley Davidson bike called the fat boy, and call your ride a "FatBoler"! What a concept!

Later Kenny
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:32 PM   #79
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Slav

Just think, when you get the back side of the wheel well removed and glassed in to the wall, you can put huge width tires on. Like the Harley Davidson bike called the fat boy, and call your ride a "FatBoler"! What a concept!

Later Kenny
Ha, that's a good one Kenny! I was going to go with larger tires, but decided to not complicate things. They are still a bit larger than the originals and I noticed when the body was down that I may need more space because of how tapered those crazy wells are. Wish I didn't have to but I want it done right!

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Slav
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #80
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Belly Stickers

Today I didn't feel like messing with fiberglass sanding, so on to the next thing. It was time to get rid of those orange/olive belly stickers on our Boler. My hope was to get rid of them with a razor rather than having to sand them off. It worked.

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While scraping the stickers away I noticed small spots of mold underneath them, probably feeding on that glue.

Just used a glass scraper and a bunch of blades to get this stuff off.

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Old 03-03-2013, 12:08 PM   #81
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My sisters banding strips are painted on. They will scratch easily even with a finger nail. being sanded off, to repaint the Egg.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #82
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Slav

My sisters banding strips are painted on. They will scratch easily even with a finger nail. being sanded off, to repaint the Egg.
That is interesting, Kenny. More inconsistency in how these were made...it was a good workout and the top half left some glue residue that will still need sanding.

Slav
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Old 03-23-2013, 01:09 AM   #83
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Name: Colleen
Trailer: 1980 Boler Deluxe
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It took a bit of time (not that we were in a hurry, and well done work always takes a bit longer), but we now have the new frame! I have to say that the guys at Mann's Welding did an outstanding job on fabrication. If anyone in the greater Seattle area would like a new frame or modifications, these guys are truly masters and I'd take my business to them again.

After picking the frame up a week ago, Tim Mann (the owner) recommended Bull Dog Powder Coating. It was close so I drove straight there to get an estimate. The price was reasonable and I left the frame to receive two coats of black semi-shiny powder. Many colors and finishes are available, but I wanted the visible parts of the frame to go with the black in the wheels. And if there are ever any nicks that develop, it should be easier to touch up with paint. I must say it looks amazing and we're super happy with the whole outcome!

Here are a couple pics, and I'll talk more about some of the features/modifications in the next couple days.

Looks like they did a great job! Would you be willing to share what it cost? I'm in Seattle and definitely need some frame work done if not a whole new frame.....
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:33 PM   #84
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Fiberglass Work

It's been a while since the last post so I better show an update. Progress has been slower but little by little the Boler will get done! I got my hands wet and sticky doing fiberglassing. It went from fun to a bit frustrating to really fun again. The first time I mixed the resin with the hardener I didn't put as much hardener as the instructions called for - thinking it would give me more time to slather it on - but all that did was took two days to dry instead of a few hours! Lesson learned...

Anybody doing this for the first time, make sure you wear a respirator that handles organic fumes and have fresh air coming in. Also, using two sets of Nitrile gloves was handy since they get sticky pretty fast.

Here is a pic of the before of the front left frame rail cut-out (I used a grinder to grind a depression on the edges to handle the fiberglass mat):

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And the fix (that still needs smoothing):

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And the right frame rail cut-out with all kinds of holes:

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The first resin-soaked mat I tried here slid off and didn't want to stay nice and flat, so I used some foam-cor wrapped with wax paper (won't stick to the wet resin) to hold things in place and make the surface nice and straight:

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And after drying and removing the board:

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Lots of holes of various sizes underneath that needed work. Big ones like the one pictured below just got the mat treatment. Small bolt holes just got plugged with wax paper-lined duct tape from the bottom and resin was poured in from the top.

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And all nice and dry - not worrying too much about it looking pretty as this will be coated with Herculiner (truck-bed protector):

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