1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #85
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
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More Fiberglassing!

So, remember I had to cut out an opening on the inside for part of the frame to fit (since the frame is good and straight now and I didn't anticipate this making a tight fit here):

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I built a "frame" from underneath with wax paper covered foam-cor and then laid down well-basted fiberglass mat in several layers, then put another board on the front to make things stay nice and tight and straight:

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After drying overnight, things look quite good and feel very strong:

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With the lights turned off and a light underneath you can see the new form really well:

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And from underneath:

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Now I better get to smoothing these and prepare things for Bondo work underneath. I'm so ready to get the egg on the frame it is driving me nutty!
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:05 PM   #86
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Slav

When one fills holes with resin alone, it is prone to fracturing; when filling holes I remove the surface area around the hole (with a sand paper loaded grinding tool), on about a 30 angle, so that there is an exposed fiberglass area of about 3/8th of an inch all the way around the hole. I put a backer piece with mat, on the back side, that is l/2"or more larger than the hole, held in place, with what ever.??? I then cut mat to the approximate size to fit the hole several layers thick and then enough to cover the relived area on the face, put a solid piece over the top of it. the inside and outside pieces can even be screwed together. then a bit of scrap, pushed into the screw holes, when removed. these holes are enlarged then a piece of mat is layered in place. perhaps the existing resin can be sanded out half way on the outside covered on the inside, fitted with pieces on the outside. or see how it goes. a sharp vertical hole with with no area to spread the mat out onto is not safe. I like the way you fixed the other holes!

Later Kenny
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:26 AM   #87
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Slav

When one fills holes with resin alone, it is prone to fracturing; when filling holes I remove the surface area around the hole (with a sand paper loaded grinding tool), on about a 30 angle, so that there is an exposed fiberglass area of about 3/8th of an inch all the way around the hole. I put a backer piece with mat, on the back side, that is l/2"or more larger than the hole, held in place, with what ever.??? I then cut mat to the approximate size to fit the hole several layers thick and then enough to cover the relived area on the face, put a solid piece over the top of it. the inside and outside pieces can even be screwed together. then a bit of scrap, pushed into the screw holes, when removed. these holes are enlarged then a piece of mat is layered in place. perhaps the existing resin can be sanded out half way on the outside covered on the inside, fitted with pieces on the outside. or see how it goes. a sharp vertical hole with with no area to spread the mat out onto is not safe. I like the way you fixed the other holes!

Later Kenny
Thanks Kenny for the suggestions! I have used mat with all the holes except the 1/8th to 1/4th wide ones (about 10 of them) that the previous owner made to screw down the sub-floor. You think those will hold? I hope so...

Slav
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:36 PM   #88
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Some Fix Updates

Here I'm going to show some of the before and after pics of the front and back sections that I had to cut out and then patch with new fiberglass and Bondo. I think it all turned out quite nice...even if it was more work than I initially anticipated. When I look at it now it feels good, especially knowing I never did this type of "handyman" work before!

Alright, here is the first cutout that had new glass put in, and note the crushed hole on the left (I've shown this pic before in an earlier post):

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And here it is all nicely smoothed and fixed up with Bondo:

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A detail of the nasty hole on the left:

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I first tried to get fiberglass mat to stick from the front but it just made a mess and didn't have enough surface to stick to, so I ended up applying several layers from the inside of the trailer and that made a really super solid new corner for me and got finished off with Bondo:

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Many sticky gloves later, got to work on the right front section...the before:

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And nicely finished off:

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In the back I had one frame rail opening to fix up (which was also a smaller opening than the other...go figure). I needed to cut a chunk out on one side and build up about a half inch of fiberglass on the left. Here is the first "raw" pic (yumm, if this stuff only smelled and tasted like honey!):

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And the completed, satisfactory, I think:

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Old 04-09-2013, 11:55 PM   #89
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Excellent work here
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:12 AM   #90
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Herculiner here we go!

Wow, this stuff was a workout! After seemingly weeks of prep work to fix up the various holes, cracks, dings, chips and any other suspect looking stuff on the underside and around the bottom edges, it was finally time to slather on the tar-like goodness to the bottom of this here beautiful egg!

Just a reminder that our Boler's floor is part of the mold of the whole bottom half, not glassed in as in older models and not reinforced with wood. So, it was as smooth underside as on the outside...likewise basted with the same gelcoat. In order to get it ready for Herculiner I had to scruff it up with 100 grit sandpaper. Once all was fixed up and sanded, I wiped it all down carefully with acetone.

With the research I've done, I ended up settling on Herculiner due to good results others have had, relative easy of application by hand, and availability at a local auto parts store. It still wasn't that cheap at close to $100 for a gallon kit (only comes in a kit with rollers, etc.).

Here it is, and I should mention that after two coats I still have close to one-third of the can left, well ok, maybe only one-fourth!

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Wearing a respirator, double Nitrile gloves, goggles and Tyvek disposable full-body suit is a must. This stuff stinks horribly, like gasoline, being xylene based. Garage door open, fan running, all suited up, here we go!

This stuff requires two coats for a good and strong coating, and the first needs to be no longer tacky before the 2nd goes on...but must be done within 24 hours.

Here is a nice pic of the job...looks tasty in my opinion! Looking through one of the wheel-wells:

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The first coat application took two hours, then I had about 4 hours before things were just dry enough, and the second coat took three hours. When all was done I felt like I could have used a cane to walk over to a massage parlor...! With 2 to 2.5 feet of clearance under the rig, this gave me a beating. But it looks stunning now...so I ain't complaining!

Here is one looking at the front rail opening:

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And just a closer look at the texture...oh yeah, this stuff needs to be stirred well a few times per coat to keep the rubber chunks in suspension. Glad I had a stirrer for the drill with this one!

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Since the body is sitting on two 4x4 posts, I still need to move those and baste those sections...then we'll put it down on the frame, permanently I hope, and get on with the rest of the renovation!


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Old 04-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #91
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excellent job SLav

One question I have for you is, why?

If the underside of your egg (like mine) is nice smooth FG, why go with all this effort and cost to cover the underside with this product?

Protection from stones/ chips? what was your reasoning here?

It looks great, a job well done.
Thanks,
Luis
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:45 PM   #92
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Excellent work here
Dave, thanks! Your examples and help were super valuable while doing this!
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:58 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by Luis View Post
One question I have for you is, why?

If the underside of your egg (like mine) is nice smooth FG, why go with all this effort and cost to cover the underside with this product?

Protection from stones/ chips? what was your reasoning here?

It looks great, a job well done.
Thanks,
Luis
Luis, thanks! As for the why, yes, protection from stones mostly. There were quite a few chips in the sections underneath - some quite bad - that were in the line of fire from stones thrown by (most likely) the pulling vehicle. These were on the front and in all exposed sections underneath. I plan to put this stuff on the front too (bottom half of the below-the-belly-band section as it is riddled with hundreds of chips from stones).

We do go off pavement quite a bit, so that should help there as well.

I was also concerned about the fiberglass getting thinner where it was sitting on the frame rails (I have pics of that in one of my previous posts on this thread).

And I guess another reason is, yeah, it looks good! I know, I may be crazy...

Slav
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:06 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post

Luis, thanks! As for the why, yes, protection from stones mostly. There were quite a few chips in the sections underneath - some quite bad - that were in the line of fire from stones thrown by (most likely) the pulling vehicle. These were on the front and in all exposed sections underneath. I plan to put this stuff on the front too (bottom half of the below-the-belly-band section as it is riddled with hundreds of chips from stones).

We do go off pavement quite a bit, so that should help there as well.

I was also concerned about the fiberglass getting thinner where it was sitting on the frame rails (I have pics of that in one of my previous posts on this thread).

And I guess another reason is, yeah, it looks good! I know, I may be crazy...

Slav



Atta boy!
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:49 PM   #95
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Herculiner/ paint boundary

Slav, where will you stop the Herculiner lining and where does your normal paint start? at the bottom of the FG "divide", or are you lining some of the outside bottoms as well?

I know you mentioned the front under belly section. How do you plan to finish the lining? (first paint and then apply Herculiner I assume...

I read you preared the underside bondo with 100 grit sanding paper, and cleaned with acetone before applying the liner. I guess Ill follow suit. Get a walking cane ready for me too.

Cheers,
L
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:18 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by Luis View Post
Slav, where will you stop the Herculiner lining and where does your normal paint start? at the bottom of the FG "divide", or are you lining some of the outside bottoms as well?

I know you mentioned the front under belly section. How do you plan to finish the lining? (first paint and then apply Herculiner I assume...

I read you preared the underside bondo with 100 grit sanding paper, and cleaned with acetone before applying the liner. I guess Ill follow suit. Get a walking cane ready for me too.

Cheers,
L
Luis,

I applied the Herculiner to the entire underside surfaces, which included that underside "lip" at the edges and stopped just as the curvature turns upward. At first I thought of going about 3 inches up but after thinking about it, figured there was no sense and it wouldn't look nice.

For the under-belly-band front, I'm going to mark off the section for the Herculiner and come with the paint just over that border and then apply Herculiner. Figure there is no point to paint the whole surface that will be under Herculiner because it will have to be sanded/scratched up so the Herc grips well.

As for the application, you got it, but if it is helpful, here was my procedure:

-Clean underside with water and rags, let dry.
-Scuff up the entire surface with 100 grit (the scratch pad included with Herculiner was not effective), wipe down with acetone to get rid of particles (use Acetone resistant gloves over Nitrile, organic respirator).
-Fix underside with FG/Bondo, then scratch up with 100 grit, clean everything with acetone as above.
-Mask off border with painter's tape.
-Wear Tyvek body suit (it was quite black after 2nd coat was done), two sets of Nitrile gloves (first one taped to suit to avoid skin contact with Herculinier, second for easy change), eye protection, organic vapor respirator.
-Mix Herculiner with drill-attached mixer.
-Pour into metal paint tray. Before every refill of Herculiner, mix with drill, keep can closed as moisture in air cures it.
-Apply first coat with provided roller (paintbrush in tight spots, dab so particles stick, do not drag), give it a few hours to dry so it is not tacky, but less than 24 hours. You'll notice that a lot of your FG shows after first coat; don't worry, it won't after 2nd coat.
-Apply 2nd coat with NEW roller/brush.
-Enjoy the beautiful underside!

By the way, this left me with a quart of Herculiner from the gallon, that I transferred to a clean metal quart can for later use (for the front).

If you need more of those rollers (for the front, etc), I got them here for $2.99 each.

Slav
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:24 PM   #97
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Boler resting on Frame

After the push to get the underside fixed and coated with Herculiner I needed a break...which seems to have lasted a few weeks. Over this weekend it was finally time to lower the body very carefully from its resting place on 4x4s and cinder blocks back onto that shiny frame.

Did that hard work of modifications pay off? Yes! We carefully lowered the body little by little onto the frame and the fit is perfect. All the cutouts allowed the frame proper fit. With this, I no longer need to lift it off the frame! Time to move to other things...

Here it is on the frame:

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The front, plenty of breathing space for the frame (in previous posts I've shown the tight fit):

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And one from the back:

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Now I'm ready to start fixing the floor on the inside. As I've mentioned before, we have weird wheel wells that I need to modify so the tires don't wreck them even though it seems like there should be no problem. If in a couple years there is an issue, it will be a lot more work then than now.

And need to build up the holes/cut-outs that were patched from the outside with FG mat on the inside. Then will clean the floor and treat it to make it nice before laying down the plywood sub-floor. Stay tuned!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:46 PM   #98
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Stay tuned!
We will
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