1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 9 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-01-2013, 03:50 PM   #113
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Name: Slavomir
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I wonder if all of our garage floors look as nice as our trailers do while under renovation. That stuff looks really nice and durable.
Hi Jim,

Well, the garage floor is rather messy now from the renovation! I sure hope it is durable...feels like it when I tried to scrape it.

Slav
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:11 PM   #114
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Patching Big Holes

The last several days I've been focusing my attention on the body holes that remain from the former kitchen. Two large openings from the old 3-way fridge and another sizable one from the furnace vent. For good measure a couple more holes from water intake or something I can't remember...

I had a nice piece of fiberglass (about 3x3 feet) that used to hold up the flat water tank under the body, so this came very handy for cutting out the patches (with oscillating cutter).

Here is the area I'm talking about:

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The body was somewhat warped around the holes, probably from years of stuff bouncing around. So when patching the openings I wanted to try to straighten things out as much as possible. After fiberglassing them in, it would be impossible.

Decided to get some wooden slats and pull things as straight as possible with wood screws...didn't like the idea of more holes to patch, but something's gotta give.

Here is the smaller hole, about 6x6":

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The biggest opening, from the fridge vent/bottom access happened to include the curvature of the body. And my piece of FG was flat as a pancake. I hoped that by adding extra slats and extra screws I'd be able to force the straight piece into a curve. It worked. Here are a couple pics where the curve can be seen:

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And the overall shot:

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To make sure I don't get resin leaking thru the joints I taped the cracks with wide tape that included a strip of wax paper in the middle (so resin won't stick). Worked well...


Once all was good and secured, got down to laying the FG mat on the inside...minding all the screws poking through. I layered the mat not just around the perimeter but also thru the middles of the patches to make sure all was good and tough. Put extra layers on the curved patch to make sure it would retain its curve, forever, hopefully!

Here is the pic from the inside once all was cured...looks a bit like a cactus with the screws!

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I'm pleased how it all turned out. Once all the slats and tape were removed, the forms have been retained and I've managed to get some of the body "folds/waves" straight.

Naturally I'm still in need of fixing the outside, but that's for another day...Here is the current from the outside:

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I got the subfloor plywood, so cutting it to the curves and laying it down is next.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #115
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GREAT WORK! I'm betting the final product will look better than you imagine at this point
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:05 PM   #116
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Looks awesome Slav. I have bookmarked this thread for future use.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:21 PM   #117
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Thanks guys! I sure hope it ends up a beauty at the end. I have these little glimpses in my head as it gets further along...can hardly wait, but I guess I have to!
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:08 AM   #118
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That's the way it's done
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:35 AM   #119
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It looks like you had a fridge/freezer and washer dryer combo there Slav. Mine wasnt half that bad. Finishing up my final bottom vent patch today or tomorrow when the temp drops below 90 and then onwards. Great pictures and examples for anyone who is renovating their own egg for sure.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:47 PM   #120
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Good Job Slav. I am ahead of you having tried to fix the outside of one of the patches (smaller one of the fridge). Mind you, I did not do well.

I am waiting to get my hands on a scrap sheet of FB from the guys at Outback trailers (Joe has been very helpful with my project so far)to complete patching the larger fridge opening. I will follow your wood slat prop.

question for you: are you not opening new holes for water connects, electrical connects, water heater, DOT lights etc? Remember to use wood reinforcements on the inside so screws can work against a backing and not directly to FG.

Regards,
Luis
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:18 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by GMike A View Post
It looks like you had a fridge/freezer and washer dryer combo there Slav. Mine wasnt half that bad. Finishing up my final bottom vent patch today or tomorrow when the temp drops below 90 and then onwards. Great pictures and examples for anyone who is renovating their own egg for sure.
It was just an archaic fridge/freezer that looked like a jet engine!
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:35 PM   #122
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Good Job Slav. I am ahead of you having tried to fix the outside of one of the patches (smaller one of the fridge). Mind you, I did not do well.

I am waiting to get my hands on a scrap sheet of FB from the guys at Outback trailers (Joe has been very helpful with my project so far)to complete patching the larger fridge opening. I will follow your wood slat prop.

question for you: are you not opening new holes for water connects, electrical connects, water heater, DOT lights etc? Remember to use wood reinforcements on the inside so screws can work against a backing and not directly to FG.

Regards,
Luis
Luis, thanks!

Thanks for the reminder on using the wood on the inside, was planning on that originally. You can always make a flat piece of FG by laying several layers of mat on wax paper. Once cured, and not too thick, it should conform to whatever shape you need, with help of slats, and then just reinforce with more mat from the inside.

Indeed I'll have ports that will need to go in, but they'll be in different spots.

The plan is this:

-Electrical hook-in will most likely be in the back
-No fridge vents because we're going with an ice-box (drain will be under-side, and down the road may switch to 12V fridge only (no vents).
-Water tank will be in the back, inside, so water fill for that will be in the back
-Not sure yet if I'm going to put in a hose water intake on the side to bypass water tank because we almost always boondock
-No plan for water heater at this point
-Sink drain will be on lower part of body near the sink (not sure yet on my positioning of SMEV stove and sink

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:19 PM   #123
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Welcome, looks like a nice and solid
camper to start with.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:37 PM   #124
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Insulation under Floor???

Hi Everyone,

Got a question and would really like some help on this. Is there any reason to put insulation UNDER the sub-floor? If so, what would it be?

In my case, our Boler has the 1/4" thick fiberglass floor (one piece). On top of that I'll be putting down 3/4" plywood, and on top of that final flooring - probably 1/4" cork tiles, but that's not final.

If I was to put insulation under the sub-ply, I don't want it to be anything thick. One thought I had was to use a wool barrier that has a membrane on one side (that is installed in our house under the cork flooring in the kitchen).

The other option is to put down a layer of Reflectix that I'll be using on the walls. Being bubble-wrap lined with reflective layers, would it totally collapse? Does it matter?

Is any of it even necessary with the FG/ply/tile already as part of the floor?

Looking forward to your pro/against thoughts! Much appreciated!!!

Slav
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:51 PM   #125
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Is there any reason to put insulation UNDER the sub-floor? If so, what would it be?
Although the floor loses less heat than a similarly insulated and sized wall or roof, it is still a heat loss path, and thus an opportunity for improvement in a heated (or air conditioned) trailer. Since we walk on the floor, a cold floor is especially noticeable. For this purpose, it doesn't matter which layer of the floor provides the insulation.

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One thought I had was to use a wool barrier that has a membrane on one side (that is installed in our house under the cork flooring in the kitchen).
While I'm sure that has a valuable function when used as intended, I doubt that it would add a meaningful amount of insulation.

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The other option is to put down a layer of Reflectix that I'll be using on the walls. Being bubble-wrap lined with reflective layers, would it totally collapse? Does it matter?
As far as I know, no Reflectix product is intended to bear any load; I assume that it would be unsuitable as a load-bearing layer in a floor, and may at least locally collapse. It has no insuation value without an air space (which is the purpose of the bubbles), so yes this does matter.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:04 PM   #126
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Thanks Brian.

Looks like there are not many opinions on this. I think I'll just not worry about it and go without any additional fussing. A new option would be radiant heat! That would for sure take it to a new level.

In all reality we will most likely be more than fine with the FG/ply/cork.

Cheers,
Slav
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