1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild

[slavandheather]

Now that I had a couple days of recovery and stopped questioning myself as to why I'm doing this (I am enjoying it...and envisioning us camping already!), it was time to get the fiberglass work cookin'. I got 6 packages of FG mat, many brushes, Nitrile gloves, hardener and a huge jug of resin from Home Depot.

I had to make "rough" forms so I had something to lay the new fiberglass on. I had some unused board left from framing photos, so put that to good use. It was covered with wax paper so the glass wouldn't stick to it.

Here is one of the forms:

Got suited up, respirator on, eye protection, double Nitrile gloves. I ended up doing 4 or 5 or maybe 6 layers of fiberglass mat, but in two sessions. The reaction of resin hardening is exothermic (emitting heat as it dries) so it started drying much faster than I anticipated after several layers were built up. Sections got quite warm.

After waiting for things to cure, I scruffed it up with 80 grit, cleaned with acetone, and finished the job. After two days of work, things look great, nice and solid, and I should not have any issues with my tires hitting anything. I'll just need to still apply the Herculiner underneath though.

Here you have the pics:

[cpaharley2008]

nice work...

[KevinPete]

Just curious why you didn't tilt the well outboard, looks like you could gain a couple inches. Odd that they were tilted like that. Very nice glass work!

[slavandheather]

Originally Posted by KevinPete

Just curious why you didn't tilt the well outboard, looks like you could gain a couple inches. Odd that they were tilted like that. Very nice glass work!

Kevin, thanks! Well, from my calculations the modifications should be more than sufficient - but I'm not 100% sure on your question - at least much better than they were before. We now have plenty of space for the wheels to play in. Indeed, this was a strange design flaw...

[KevinPete]

What I meant was that it appears that the hump is tilted inboard, giving you clearance where you don't need it. If you could tip the top of the hump more outboard, might give you a couple inches in the aisle. Although looking at the pics now it looks like the inboard face is pretty vertical, hard to tell. Seems like you'd mold the well to provide equal clearance all around, plus vertical travel. Weird use of volume. Unless that rear clearance is necessary to remove the wheel from the well.

[GMike A]

I agree with Kevin. Seems like you could slice straight down in the inside curve and make it flat and you would pick up a tad more interior space. BUT its done now and the wheel well will be covered. Looks like a mushroom on its side. Still NICE

[slavandheather]

Originally Posted by KevinPete

What I meant was that it appears that the hump is tilted inboard, giving you clearance where you don't need it. If you could tip the top of the hump more outboard, might give you a couple inches in the aisle. Although looking at the pics now it looks like the inboard face is pretty vertical, hard to tell. Seems like you'd mold the well to provide equal clearance all around, plus vertical travel. Weird use of volume. Unless that rear clearance is necessary to remove the wheel from the well.

Ok, I now see what you're getting at. I agree, the pics make it seem like there is an outward tilt but that's an illusion. They are totally vertical on the inside. I'm going to leave them alone at this point and move on.

Mike...ha, they do look like mushrooms! Uniquely mine!

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by slavandheather

Uniquely mine!

And that works!

[slavandheather]

After completing all the fiberglass work involving the floor and wheel wells, I gave it a good wipe-down with acetone to get rid of any loose FG powder and fibers. Before all the work started, it was washed down and scrubbed with detergent, but the stains of age and a faint odor (aged fiberglass?) remained.

Here are a couple before pics:

Even though we will be putting down 3/4" plywood subfloor and this will be all covered up, I wanted it to look fresh and sealed well. And after seeing Robert Johans doing a similar treatment in his last Boler reno, we went ahead and coated it with a garage floor epoxy paint. I first tested it on a scrap FG piece and it looked great. Seemed to really bond with the FG and wouldn't lift up.

Here is what we used:

Eventually the rest of the inside will be coated with the epoxy paint before we glue in the Reflectix insulation. But more work is to be done on the rest of the inside. Here are a couple pics of the finished floor:

[GMike A]

I was going to do the same thing Slav - again as you after seeing Roberts. His was greyer (if that is a word). I like the looks of yours.

Good job.

[slavandheather]

Originally Posted by GMike A

I was going to do the same thing Slav - again as you after seeing Roberts. His was greyer (if that is a word). I like the looks of yours.

Good job.

Thanks Mike! I wonder if the color variation is due to lighting. Anyways, I'm quite pleased with the outcome.

Slav

[cpaharley2008]

I wonder if all of our garage floors look as nice as our trailers do while under renovation. That stuff looks really nice and durable.

[slavandheather]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I wonder if all of our garage floors look as nice as our trailers do while under renovation. That stuff looks really nice and durable.

Hi Jim,

Well, the garage floor is rather messy now from the renovation! I sure hope it is durable...feels like it when I tried to scrape it.

Slav

[slavandheather]

The last several days I've been focusing my attention on the body holes that remain from the former kitchen. Two large openings from the old 3-way fridge and another sizable one from the furnace vent. For good measure a couple more holes from water intake or something I can't remember...

I had a nice piece of fiberglass (about 3x3 feet) that used to hold up the flat water tank under the body, so this came very handy for cutting out the patches (with oscillating cutter).

Here is the area I'm talking about:

The body was somewhat warped around the holes, probably from years of stuff bouncing around. So when patching the openings I wanted to try to straighten things out as much as possible. After fiberglassing them in, it would be impossible.

Decided to get some wooden slats and pull things as straight as possible with wood screws...didn't like the idea of more holes to patch, but something's gotta give.

Here is the smaller hole, about 6x6":

The biggest opening, from the fridge vent/bottom access happened to include the curvature of the body. And my piece of FG was flat as a pancake. I hoped that by adding extra slats and extra screws I'd be able to force the straight piece into a curve. It worked. Here are a couple pics where the curve can be seen:

And the overall shot:

To make sure I don't get resin leaking thru the joints I taped the cracks with wide tape that included a strip of wax paper in the middle (so resin won't stick). Worked well...


Once all was good and secured, got down to laying the FG mat on the inside...minding all the screws poking through. I layered the mat not just around the perimeter but also thru the middles of the patches to make sure all was good and tough. Put extra layers on the curved patch to make sure it would retain its curve, forever, hopefully!

Here is the pic from the inside once all was cured...looks a bit like a cactus with the screws!

I'm pleased how it all turned out. Once all the slats and tape were removed, the forms have been retained and I've managed to get some of the body "folds/waves" straight.

Naturally I'm still in need of fixing the outside, but that's for another day...Here is the current from the outside:

I got the subfloor plywood, so cutting it to the curves and laying it down is next.

[Donna D.]

GREAT WORK! I'm betting the final product will look better than you imagine at this point

[GMike A]

Looks awesome Slav. I have bookmarked this thread for future use.

[slavandheather]

Thanks guys! I sure hope it ends up a beauty at the end. I have these little glimpses in my head as it gets further along...can hardly wait, but I guess I have to!

[D White]

That's the way it's done

[GMike A]

It looks like you had a fridge/freezer and washer dryer combo there Slav. Mine wasnt half that bad. Finishing up my final bottom vent patch today or tomorrow when the temp drops below 90 and then onwards. Great pictures and examples for anyone who is renovating their own egg for sure.

[Luis]

Good Job Slav. I am ahead of you having tried to fix the outside of one of the patches (smaller one of the fridge). Mind you, I did not do well.

I am waiting to get my hands on a scrap sheet of FB from the guys at Outback trailers (Joe has been very helpful with my project so far)to complete patching the larger fridge opening. I will follow your wood slat prop.

question for you: are you not opening new holes for water connects, electrical connects, water heater, DOT lights etc? Remember to use wood reinforcements on the inside so screws can work against a backing and not directly to FG.

Regards,
Luis