1978 Hunter Compact Rebuild - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:48 AM   #1
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
Posts: 17
1978 Hunter Compact Rebuild

Just recently picked up this little camper. This is my first trailer and wanted to start with something small and easily towable with my classic Jeep. About two weeks ago I started to gut out the interior. I pulled everything out. It was cramped and poorly built, lots of unnescesary use of space. My intentions were to just redo the inside, but after pulling out the benches and cabinets I noticed the floor had some rot around the edges so I pulled that. The top mold of the shell sagged about two inches on the left so I pulled apart the two pieces this way I could adjust and level out the entire trailer. Pulled the windows and door. I think I’m going to get rid of the pop up and replace with a huge skylight. For me the top is heavy and bulky, it’s not sturdy and is a pain to push up and down.

I’ve started to sand all holes to prepare for filler and repair. I’ve patched up small screw holes with bondo and I made a few sheets of fiberglass to repair 3 good sized cut outs that were covered with vents. I’ve got the cut outs grinded and cleaned about 2-3 outside the cut area. Now I’m ready to attach the sheets I made but not sure if I should attach from the inside or outside then begin to layer more mat and resin. Any advice and suggestions are appreciated.

I’m not exactly trying to restore to original stock, but I’d like to stay somewhat period correct. I’ve opened up a can of worms and there’s no looking back. My goal is to have her up and running my March. Thanks to this forum I think I can manage all repairs and upgrade myself.

Tyoni
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:49 AM   #2
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
Posts: 17
Just noticed my last few photos posted sideways. I’ll be sure to fix that for the next.
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:27 AM   #3
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Name: Eric
Trailer: 1987 Casita 16
Illinois
Posts: 503
When I did mine, I first glassed the inside, 2" on the places the old and new came together, then one large one over everything. Might have been overkill, but then I put bondo on the outside. Two threads helped me a lot, K Corbin has a thread on a rebuild,

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ion-74938.html

and shaggydoink has one on a casita

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ead-75022.html

If you check the mods and alterations threads there are a number that have done this, and to read through the thread will give lots so of good ideas.
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:46 PM   #4
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Thanks Eric I’ll be sure to check out these builds you’ve suggested.
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Old 11-24-2017, 01:01 PM   #5
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Fiberglass backing attachment

I’m ready to cover up these three large holes. I’ve made fiberglass backings with 3 layers of mat and polyester resin. They are cured and ready to go. They extend the size of the hole by about 3”. I’ve searched through many threads and can’t find my exact questions. Maybe I’m just not understanding.

1: do I attach the sheets I made from the inside or outside?

2: would I be using screws to hold them in place?

3: Should I use resin to attach the backings then screws?

4: do I need to rough up the backings I’ve made before applying any fresh resin or are they good to
go?

5: I read and was advised to use bondo on the outside as the final layer to be sanded smooth before any paint, etc?

I’ve searched high and low and I do find lots of info but not the exact questions I’m asking.

Thanks
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Old 11-24-2017, 01:39 PM   #6
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
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Tyoni,

You should take a look that this thread:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ass-52498.html

The first thing he does is cover up a vent hole.
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Old 11-26-2017, 03:39 PM   #7
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Patched up holes

I backed up the two big holes from the inside and I did the small from the outside. Using the backing I made from the inside made much more sense and I realized it would be much less grinding and smoothing out. I’ll be grinding all the loose and rough spots and continue to layer until I get it flushed with the walls.

Once it flushed and smoothed out should I apply bondo? Or what’s my best option before primer and paint?

Thanks
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:56 PM   #8
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Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
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You can thicken resin with micro sized, hollow sphere, balloons to make an easy to sand fairing paste. Examples at this website but the micro balloons are sold in many locations. Fillers and Thickeners for Polyester and Epoxy Resins

Good reason for using this product is that it won't absorb water when cured versus Bondo which is hygrosocpic.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:03 PM   #9
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Thanks for the tip. I’ll research that idea. I used a bit of bondo to fill some screw holes but it was hard to work with. It dried too quick and I didn’t want to use it if I didn’t have too.

It’s not advised to paint directly over the resin and mat once sanded smooth?
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:39 PM   #10
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
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Im sure you know this already, one nice thing with the Hunter trailers is you get a relatively short trailer (can fit in most garages) but with the pop top center, you can still stand up inside. Eliminating the pop up makes the interior head height pretty low. I almost added a Hunter project to my fleet earlier this year.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:20 PM   #11
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Bill, that’s what I liked about Rus trailer. It’s short and stout. I’m about 5’3 and I can stand up in the trailer. I’m still thinking about removing the pop up to replace with a bubble skylight. Some have a 5” raise so that may help with others that are a bit taller. Haven’t got to the top just yet so I’m still thinking about the idea.

I also like that the trailer is more square as opposed to the rounded, egg shaped ones. It will make for an easier interior build.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:44 PM   #12
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You should keep the lid....you don't hafta put it up. ...and if you ever sell, they'll want it.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:30 PM   #13
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Name: Buggeee
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OH
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That is a really cool shape to that trailer. It's like cube art.

Bondo/body filler definitely has it's place in the project, but less is more I think.

Full-on attack to the renovation. Go T Go!!! This egg will have no secrets.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:37 PM   #14
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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New floor plywood

Been a while since I’ve posted or worked on the trailer. I’ve since replaced the plywood floor. Used 3/4 inch. I sprayed the underside with a rubberized spray. Maybe that will help with any moisture to the exposed wood from underneath.

Been reading up here and from what I understand, some are using strips of mat and resin to fill in the joints of the plywood to fiberglass side walls? Is that a good idea to seal it all up?

Would it also be a good idea to using the same method to seal up and seems on the wood floor?

I plan to lay hardwood planks over the plywood.

Before I lay the hardwood I’m not sure if I should cover the entire floor with the planks and build bench, cabinets, etc. on top or build first then lay the hardwood only to the exposed areas?

Thanks
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:38 PM   #15
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Bruce. That’s a great idea. I was going to put it on the classifieds but I’ll hang onto it. Thanks
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:39 PM   #16
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Name: Tyoni
Trailer: Hunter compact
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggeee View Post
That is a really cool shape to that trailer. It's like cube art.

Bondo/body filler definitely has it's place in the project, but less is more I think.

Full-on attack to the renovation. Go T Go!!! This egg will have no secrets.
Buggee it’s like I’ve opened a can of worms but im slowly creeping along!
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