1978 Trillium 4500 restoration ... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-03-2012, 10:28 PM   #15
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It is kind of amazing to me that so few and such small bolts are all that keep the trillium body on its frame.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:18 PM   #16
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Name: Martin
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Hi Fred an Natalie,
Looks like you have got a serious amount of dampness into your plywood floor to cause such an amount of corrosion. Rot is to be expected. The exterior fiberglass shell is very thin. It needs a solid plywood floor above it to be safe and hold on the frame bolts.

I would also suspect your electrical wires and power transformer to be corroded. It could be a fire hazard. While you are at it, I would not take chances and replace all electrical wiring that is a little damaged, stiff (internal corrosion) or that has a visibly corroded connector. Dampness is sucked into the exposed ends of regular standed copper wires and will slowly corrode them. If you try replacing the connector, you will notice even newly stripped wire is dull brownish or even turned green. Such corroded wire is not reusable: it will turn brittle and unsafe and must be replaced.

TIP: It is a good idea to use RV waterproof coating (rubber-like stuff) once you have soldered or crimped properly your new connectors.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:35 PM   #17
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For splicing new wires you also could consider this product for strength of connection and a nice weathertight seal.

Sealed Connectors for Multiple Wires
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:53 PM   #18
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Very cool. I've never seen those before. Thanks for the tip.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanke View Post
For splicing new wires you also could consider this product for strength of connection and a nice weathertight seal.

Sealed Connectors for Multiple Wires
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1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:14 AM   #19
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Looks like I will also be removing the belly band. I noticed some bulges in the wall behind the dinette. Only two that really stick out, but there are a few others that are a bit raised. Actually, I like the look of no belly band.

Along most of the elephant skin that backs the belly band, there is a perceivable trench. The elephant skin is not even glued to it. Kinda suspended across the gap behind bulge in the trailer that the belly band sits on.

My plans will change according to the results of closer inspection, (grinding) but I think I would like to take a middle road. The plates are only a problem when they start to corrode. If I grind out the problematic ones, but just drill out the rivet and fill in the hole with a resin of some sort. I hope to seal the rest of the plates up, with as little aluminum as possible, and no moisture. Maybe do it on a dry day, use a blow dryer to heat it up to drive out any moisture?

Thoughts?
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:15 AM   #20
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I think that if you remove the belly band, seal the outside with glass, and remove the rivets, then leaving the metal inside will cause no problems.

It seems that only the areas that got water seepage saw rusting, while others did not rust. Ergo, if you seal things up you'll be OK.
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:53 PM   #21
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Freddo, I have a 1977 13' Trillium. I'm replacing my fridge with a chest type to sit on the front bench (which will be converted for storage). I don't know what a fair price is or even if it will fit. If it does fit (I can get the make number off it later) you can have it for a deal.
It works better than I could have imagined. I put it on 7 when we went camping last weekend and it froze the milk. I didn't even know a Dometic could freeze. I'm into solar power and the one I'm getting is 85 quarts and only uses 2.8 A whereas the Trillium Dometic uses 8 A.
I didn't use the propane, I tried to light it but don't know if it was me or the system, but It wouldn't light. I kinda think it was me because everything else works in my camper. The 12V and the 110 both worked.
Let me know if you are interested.
Also- did you start the other thread showing the removal of the offending fridge?
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itlives View Post
I didn't use the propane, I tried to light it but don't know if it was me or the system, but It wouldn't light. I kinda think it was me because everything else works in my camper. The 12V and the 110 both worked.
When I purchased my trailer, the igniter was broken. The PO told me that they opened the bottom vent on the outside of the trailer to light the fridge. The folks at Trilliium Outback put in a used piezo igniter.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:13 PM   #23
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I tried that, too. I think I don't know how to light it. I'm just learning the camper. Gots lots of re-wiring to do right now. I'm not too worried about a fridge I'm going to get rid of.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:32 PM   #24
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Name: Ron
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Ontario
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Hi All
Looking for the black plastic stripping that hides the screws on the outside Alumimum windows (sides & top).
Has anyone found a source for this molding?
I have a 1975 13 ft Trilium that I am putting in shape. Also looking for a source for ENSOLITE material. RRJR
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:44 PM   #25
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Do a search for Hehr Style Screw Covers
This is one I found - there are others I have seen in RV catalogs
Screw Covers and Trims - Hehr Screw Cover
Mine were faded to gray so I spray painted them Satin Black

I have not seen a direct ensolite replacement
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris McVeigh View Post
I have not seen a direct ensolite replacement
Ensolite seems to be available at the following link:

Rubberite Cypress Sponge Closed Cell Sponge
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #27
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The ensolite, as we know it for molded trailers, is skinned in vinyl. There are seveal distributors of closed-cell foams... but, as far as I know... no one has found a manufacturer that skins the foam. (please prove me wrong, I'd love to capture a link!!!!!!!)
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:34 AM   #28
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That's what I was wondering Donna. Maybe Trillium still makes it . I'm sure the color would be different, and one would have to heat it to conform to the body. I'll send an email to them - if I can.
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