1979 Scamp 16' Project - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:29 PM   #21
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Name: chad
Trailer: 1975 Scamp- Super Cozy Ambulatory Mega Party, 1980 Boler B1500 15'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevC View Post
Yes, I prefer the louvre style, except when running into them while walking around the trailer.
HAHA, oh man I have cursed those windows while rubbing my shoulder.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:19 PM   #22
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
Posts: 182
I water proofed my floor with 2 coats of Drylok paint. It's made for concrete but some folks use it for waterproofing their wooden homemade lizard cages with excellent results.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #23
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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I used some vertical shelf hangers in my closet above the AC to hang some 1/2 birch ply shelves. I removed the "front to back" clothes rod from the top of the closest and cut the opening of the closet higher to take advantage of that dead space up there.
I cut out the area inside of the green tape- there is another shelf in that area. I'll also add a lower shelf once I get more lumber to replace all of the cabinet doors.
The photos of the box is there by mistake- while the iPhone app for this forum is great- it crashes and I lose my post if I try to delete a photo while creating a post.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:26 PM   #24
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
Posts: 182
I recieved a late shipment from Scamp- unfortunately the base and flange of Temne toilet was damaged during Ups transit.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:31 PM   #25
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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The greywater I got from Scamp seems to be in good condition- despite the damaged box.
I marked out some hole for the sink line and vent line, then drilled for them. The entire frame needs to be sanded/brushed and repainted. I'm not ready to do that yet but I did the area around where the grey tank would be to save some hassle.
Ultimately i ended up cutting a rectangle in the floor for the topside of the grey water tank inlets. The flange and silicone sealant on the top of the tank kept it from sitting flush and flat when I only had holes drilled for the pipes.
I used stainless steel screw and washer to attach the grey tank through the outer flange. I'll add the straps when I get home from the beach.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #26
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I went to Costco yesterday in F-Burg, picked up a 700W microwave for $50. It is only 17" wide I plan on mounting it in the closet of a S-13 that I am working on. Should fit the standard door opening. I was looking at mounting it up high in the closet and try to use some of that unused space.
Your floor looks great I was just getting ready to paint mine, but could not decide on which paint to use so I may go with the Dryloc. On the walls under the seats I was going to remove and clean up the old foam and cover the wall with the Reflectix® insulation.
Eddie
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:59 PM   #27
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Are you reading my mind?
I was considering doing the exact same thing with torn up ensolite under the bench seats. I think it's the way to go. The ensolite under the seats is definitely pretty funk since it doesn't have the acrylic coating on it.

The one down side of the Drylok I've encountered is that it is very rough- seems to have a sand filler. It could tear up your Nuckols if it's not covered.
I read that you get better adhesion if you do coat 1 of Drylok dealt thin on wood- and the wood should be sanded for adhesion.
Drylok is about as thick as Soft serve icecream- and has an ammonia odor like primer- but it's easy apply with a cheap chip brush.
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:36 PM   #28
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Trailer: Scamp 19
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Ryan You are doing a great job! I want to install a toilet also please post pictures and info when you install your toilet.thank you Rob
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:37 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan P R View Post
I used some vertical shelf hangers in my closet above the AC to hang some 1/2 birch ply shelves. I removed the "front to back" clothes rod from the top of the closest and cut the opening of the closet higher to take advantage of that dead space up there.
I cut out the area inside of the green tape- there is another shelf in that area. I'll also add a lower shelf once I get more lumber to replace all of the cabinet doors.
The photos of the box is there by mistake- while the iPhone app for this forum is great- it crashes and I lose my post if I try to delete a photo while creating a post.

Ryan, I used the same vertical shelf supports in my recent closet project. Did you discover any tricks for getting everything square? Mine is close but not perfect. Fitting the boards inside was also a challenge with the ensolite and the slightly round corners. Any tips you discovered? I do like the fact that the shelves are adjustable, and even though I didn't cut the top out, I could get a 5th shelf in using wheel well for the lowest position.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:10 PM   #30
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Squareness is tricky in these trailers, most everything is curved except the subfloor. Heck, even the subfloor has some 1/8" high and low spots.

The best I could come up with was to level the trailer, then use a level for laying out the shelving strips. I also measured from the ground up inside of the trailer as an additional reference point.

Mine aren't perfectly level/square - but are probably with 1/8" true- which seems to be more accurate than anything else in most any trailer I've seen.



As far as the selves go, the right side of the closet is about 1/4" deeper than the left side. I just used the smallest depth for each shelf, that way I could shift each shelf either up or down a notch or two without recutting the shelf. The resulting fit is very tight and the shelves really need to be coaxed in place. They won't fall out of place even on the bumpy forest roads we sometimes take.

I used 3/16" rivets ( 3 per track) and snap caps for looks. I figured the 1/8" rivets might not be up to the task of holding up the shelves when fully loaded.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:49 PM   #31
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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It's been a while since I've worked on the Scamp or updated this thread. I was side tracked for a few months by total and complete moped rebuild-- some campers next to us at the end of the summer had a few Scooters and they were taking turns all weekend long on them. I assume they were exploring the forest roads, that's what I would have been doing. Anyways, I put about 8k miles on a Scooter when in college and really miss it. So prompted by those other campers I decided to rebuild/restore the nasty old FREEBIE moped I picked up on the side of the road a couple of years ago..... It's done, back to the Scamp.....

Before I was sidetracked I manage to begin install a PD 4045 charger/converter under the front bench/bunk. I didn't want it take up any easily accessible storage space, so that was the best place for it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:51 PM   #32
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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I also finished (besides edging) installing the Allure flooring.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:52 PM   #33
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Our new foam has been recovered
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:55 PM   #34
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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All of the jalousie windows (except the one on the door) have been removed cleaned up and reinstalled with fresh butyl tape.
I replaced the front and rear solid plexi windows with new plexi and seals.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:04 PM   #35
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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I've replaced the tail lights with the nice 7" round LED lights I bought from members here, CHuck and Deb. The lights are super nice!
I replaced the side mArker lights with LED markers from Walmart.
None of the wiring was done properly-- one the previous owners had really made a mess of the tail light and brake wiring. I have it all sorted out now.
I installed the charger/converter a long time ago but only got it wired up to the old AC outlet, wired a new AC outlet, maxxair fan, and hooked the 12v lights up to it. Over the past few days I have hooked up the fridge 12v and furnace 12v to the converter. I have some 12v DC outlets I am planning to install in the near future. Just having trouble deciding exactly where to install them near the front bunk beds for the kids electronics (PSP's and portable TV). I'll put one of them near the back dinette for our cell phones to charge at night. We don't ever seem to have a cell signal where we camp, but my phone is my clock, camera and camcorder.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:08 PM   #36
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
Posts: 182
Today I started making the template for a rear upper cabinet. I decide to make mine 21" deep, sever inches deeper than a Scamp factory cabinet.
I am starting with the bottom part. After I get it fitted properly and temporarily installed I will make the template for the face of the cabinet using the same cardboard and popsicle stick method.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:36 PM   #37
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Cool idea! I've been contemplating making a shelf above the window. I will have to try this when I get around to doing it. Thanks for sharing! Keep up the good work.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:15 PM   #38
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Just about finished with the rear upper cabinet. It still needs to be bolted completely in place, doors need to be made, and I need to make bottom edge of the face completely flush with the bottom side. My wife really likes the " wood look" and so do I, but we have to decide on some coats of poly or paint to match the other existing cabinets.
This thing really adds some much needed storage space. I still need to make an upper cabinet above the sink cabinet, only the stove side has one. I also plan on making an upper cabinet in the front above the top bunk bed. I'm not sure on the details of that one yet.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:45 AM   #39
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Man, I can't get over how much I like that popsicle stick idea...

I just don't know how I could ever eat THAT MANY popsicles!

Excellent work! Keep it up!
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:56 PM   #40
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
Posts: 182
I believe I discovered the popsicle stick idea on this site.
I've found the best way for an instant and sturdy solution for attaching the sticks is to use some roll-on type double sides tape. Some of it is expensive (scrap booking quality) but I got some cheap "crafters tape" type from Walmart for less than $3 each.
The wide blue painters tape is just there to reinforce their position. Otherwise some may shift and move, especially when you remove the tight fitting template. The tape solved that problem.

Yesterday I also tackled the "privacy room". I put down the allure flooring in there. Polished up the aluminum thresh-hold and side strips with steel wool. Then cut the round hole in the Allure for the toilet drain. Attached the toilet tank and bowl.
It's a dry fit so to to speak. I still need to run some wires under the lower Ensolite in there- And plumb in the water supply.
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