1979 Scamp 16' Project - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-23-2013, 09:47 AM   #71
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
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What did you use the widen the cabinet doors with? Everything that I seem to cut FG with leaves a bit of an overbite on the edges. I like the idea of wide doors.
Great job and inspiration. I appreciate all the pictures as I will pretty well be doing what you are but at 1/8 speed or less.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:28 AM   #72
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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What did you use the widen the cabinet doors with? Everything that I seem to cut FG with leaves a bit of an overbite on the edges. I like the idea of wide doors.
Great job and inspiration. I appreciate all the pictures as I will pretty well be doing what you are but at 1/8 speed or less.
I use a multi max, as pictured with the semi-circle blade, it is VERY slow going with this thing but it gives very clean and controlled cuts. Perhaps a super fine jigsaw blade would do the trick as well, but faster.

I am getting a lot of work done on the trailer at the moment as camping season has begun and our Scamp is not ready. We are selling our 24' Coleman and won't be using it for anymore trips so I'm on a real push to get things done in the Scamp. However, I did start working on the Scamp last June or July, I've only worked on it spurts.... It does feel like it is taking a loooooong time, everything takes longer than anticipated. No matter how many very lengthy and detailed "to do lists" I make it always seems there are many things not on the list that I still have to do.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:44 AM   #73
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Okay thanks. I have one of those made for HD called Ridged tool. Have been using the triangle sander and used it to take up the foam insulation (not the sander attachment). I am about to try the 180 degree circle cutter on the wood floor areas to trim out the rest of the rotted OSB. I will try cutting a scrap piece of FG. I used my small dremel tool which took forever and my rotozip cut was too big. I did manage to get FG dust on my arms and left cheek and that was fun for several hours. I did have a mask and goggles on but only so much you can cover up. Cant afford a haz-mat suit . I do have a paint suit but its a pain to put on for a few small cuts or grinding. So I paid the piper.
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Old 04-23-2013, 12:25 PM   #74
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I have used this tool to put in a Fantastic Fan and a paddle style door handle. It work great, especially in conjunction with a shop vacuum running to suck up the fiberglass dust as you cut.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:49 PM   #75
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
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Precisely, I always run my shop run next the cutting blade. I wear a mask and goggles, but don't worry about skin covering. I also turn my maxxair fan on HIGH intake and open the closest window to the cutting area- this takes care of nearly all the Nasty airborne fibers. Even though I already have itchy/sensitive skin to begin with this technique has not once left me with fiberglass skin irritation.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:54 PM   #76
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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This is my winding plumbing mess under the kitchen sink cabinet. While I had planned on using PEX the entire time, I decided to use the fiber reinforced vinyl stuff for everything. I am not installing a hot water heater, so no problems there.
I ultimately decided that since I had to use the flex line anyways to help reduce the water pump noise- I might as well stick with it and not have to worry about 2 types of plumbing and the various adapters to get them to work in harmony.
BTW- with this flex pipe and ShurFlo WhisperKing pump, it is super duper quiet. No need to spend the time or money on a (proper name escapes me) cycle reducing diaphragm thingy.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #77
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Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
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I removed the front bunks AGAIN for hopefully the last time to tidy up the wrong underneath, as well as to insulate the walls underneath with reflectix.

Borrowing an idea from "Norm and Ginny" I made some little walls out of some scrap angled plastic (packaging for corners of long boxes) for the little step up area way back in the cubby under the center of the lower bunk. Only rarely used items would be stashed here.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:06 PM   #78
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Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
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I don't know about all fiber glass trailers, but the underside/inside of all the cabinets in this old Scamp have lots of threatening fiberglass spears just poking out waiting to tear into youR flesh when you blindly reach into them. I tired to cover it with contact paper, but it would not stick. I ended up just using duck tape to cover the nasty splintery sections of fiberglass in these areas. It doesn't look to hot, but we are talking about hidden out of sight areas so I can live with it.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:19 PM   #79
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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BAL jacks are great, my 24'er had me when I bought it, I had to install them on the Scamp as well.

The lightweight ones would be best, but I don't have the requisite cross members to attach them to, or a welding machine to add one (but hope to in the future).
I had decided on the Telescoping BAL levelers, but they have been discontinued and I could not find old stock anywhere.

I called BAL directly and they told they have a replacement leveler that is better than the old telescoping ones. So I bought some of those. They were easy to install and are more than up to the task, in fact they are capable of lifting 2 Scamps into the air at one time--- and yeah and bending your frame!

Some on this forum has mention that they largest BAL levelers they fit under the Scamp were the 19" version, due to the narrow frame. I stuck with the 19" new version, it looks to me as though I could have for the larger 24"? ones under there. However, 19" should be adequate for nearly every campsite. In the photos you can see I am using blocks under the levelers for extra height. That is due to the rather steep incline the Scamp is currently parked on, I've been on some rough angled camp sites before, but none quite that steep. I'll carry the blocks just in case.

No regrets, but in retrospect I may have been able to run a wooden crossbeam of sorts under the rear of the trailer and gotten away with the lightweight ones.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:41 AM   #80
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Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
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Originally Posted by Ryan P R View Post
I don't know about all fiber glass trailers, but the underside/inside of all the cabinets in this old Scamp have lots of threatening fiberglass spears just poking out waiting to tear into youR flesh when you blindly reach into them. I tired to cover it with contact paper, but it would not stick. I ended up just using duck tape to cover the nasty splintery sections of fiberglass in these areas. It doesn't look to hot, but we are talking about hidden out of sight areas so I can live with it.
Wow thats nasty. At least with my Casita all of those threads were either sanded off or dressed down with resin. Not sure about the new ones though and how they are made. All to cut cost corners no doubt.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:02 PM   #81
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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Here is a freshly painted tire with new rubber on the Scamp-- maybe I already post this photo? I'll get chrome baby moons once I can test drive this and make sure the new hub bearings are working well and not heating up.


I the battery brackets on the tongue would not accommodate a small battery. I had to grind off the angle iron and put in some new ones spaced out wider for my new large group 29 battery. I don't have welder, so I just bolted the new angle iron on.
I also de-rusted, primed and painted that area. I'm doing the entire chassis this way sort of piece meal as I work on something in that area. Flinging rust all over your face and body is not that pleasant.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:14 PM   #82
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
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Much needed storage added to the kitchen sink cabinet. I used full extension 22" slides on the right, and a tip out shelf kit made by "rev a shelf".


Not shown in the photos- I had to glue a wood block inside the edges of the new openings to screw the hardware into. For the extension slides, I also had to add the backing piece of wood on the back of the inside cabinet- which is of course really the wall. I attached it with 4 SS screws from the outside of the trailer.


Also not shown in the photos, I drilled 7/8" holes in both doors as the "handles" and finished them with the same satin poly as the other doors. The 7/8" hole is just enough to stick a finger in to pull. I did not want bigger holes like I used for the cabinet doors, I figured stuff might fall out of the drawers with holes that big.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:26 PM   #83
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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While I am fortunate that the original owners of this Scamp had the very efficient Atwood 8012 furnace installed (1.8amps)-- I've always been very annoyed with the way it was installed. Right smack in the middle of an otherwise wide usable space under the stove. I would have just shifted to the side to open up the space.....but while actual vent for this model is very small- it was scanned onto an older large vent (duette?) on the exterior of the trailer, and yes right through the belly band. I figured it takes up that space, so just leave it in that space for now or I will never get to camp in this thing.
I installed some very narrow (2.75" interior drawer width) yet tall (10") drawers on each side of the furnace. They won't hold a lot of volume, but if figure some smaller often used items would be great to keep in there.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #84
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Virginia
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In our other trailer I always used an old (14 years old) LED orange flash light that runs off a single AA battery for the kids nightlight. It worked well and the battery would last for maybe 60 hours or so easily, but I wanted built night lights for us and the kids in the Scamp.
I used 6" flex lite strips from Advance Auto Parts. For the kids I cut 1 down to 3" (3 LEDs) and surface mounted it to the side of the closet near the front door. It provides just the right amount of light for them to ward off the boogie man. I would have preferred it inside of nice fixure, buts its low profile and we did not need a fixture there for another light anyways.
Over our bed/dinette I install one of the 6" lengths inside of our "euro" style fixtures right next to/behind the white LED array. There is a small push button switch on the back of the fixture to control it- the switch is clearly a visible add-on, but being on the back side there is no eye sore.
The idea of ours just simply not to wake the kids with bright lights when we go to bed after them, or when I make my late night visits down the hall to the loo. I may also add the same lights over the sink cabinet, and in the bathroom- both installed within the regular lighting fixtures.
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