1980? Trillium Jubilee Reno - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2016, 08:24 AM   #29
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Name: Bee
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
PE
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Jenny,

Those random blocks are important. If they are solid and will hold a screw, leave them, they are your attachments to the fiberglass shell/structure. They should be Fiberglassed.

The bench frame rests on those random blocks and on an inner frame structure. Keep the shower curtain holders if they are metal, all I could find were cheap plastic...but they are just for stabilizing, so they work for me!

Keep the questions coming!

Haven't figured out the posting of pics....is there another way of getting a picture of sections to you?

Bee

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
Thanks so much everyone, you've all been amazingly helpful!

I've taken out a good insulation and the bench that at the front. That was fairly straightforward.

Now it looks like this: (Well, sort-of, I forgot to take a picture without the insulation!)
Attachment 98856

It uncovered interesting things like this 'patch'. I'll have to deal with that later.
Attachment 98859

Also, this mess of wires.
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These blocks of wood are randomly attached to the back of this section, it's where the bench was secured to the wall. This doesn't seem right. Any Jubilee owners mind checking their front bench to see how they are attached to the front wall?
Attachment 98857

My other big question is about the tops of window. Are they just attached to the piece of wood that runs around the upper part of the walls, below the shelves and the upper cabinets? I was surprised that this was it and that this piece is installed *over* the insulation. Seems strange. Anyone have any ideas why it might be like this? Is your trailer the same?
Attachment 98860

My other big challenge today was that I cannot for the life if me figure out how to remove the floor to ceiling fridge cabinet. I have removed every screw I can see, given it a good pounding with a mallet and it's still not moving (it budges slightly)! It's not attached at the ceiling, or the floor. My only guess is that it is glued to the wooden supports. I think I have to attack it with a reciprocating saw to get it out! I'm switching to removing the kitchen, but I'm not optimistic about the ease with which it will come out!

Picking up one of the two kids from camp tomorrow. My progress will be remarkably slower. But I'm looking forward to the stories!
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:34 PM   #30
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
Nova Scotia
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So I started taking out the benches in the dining area today. The floor here was less water-damaged, but still in rough shape. As I pulled it up I discovered that there were quite a few ants that had taken up residence in the wood. I'm really glad that it's all going!

As I ripped out the step, the wires were cleverly hidden behind. I'll have to remember this!
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The big question of the day came up when I removed the centre section. What should I do with the water tank? Is it essential to the water operation if I hook it up at a campground?
My inclination is to get rid of it. Less to worry about. Anyone have an argument to keep it? If I do get rid of it, what do I put in this space when I rebuild - just leave a void?
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I'm attacking the fridge cupboard tonight with my new reciprocating saw! Figured it would be good to wait until a backup adult was around in case I need to call in reinforcements!
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:40 PM   #31
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Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Manitoba
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Back at ya!

Just to let you know there are lots of us out there in the same state as you with your trailer, and many more women than I would have expected.
As you have already discovered this is a great community for support and help.
You are off to a roaring start. Well done.
Took this several weeks ago:
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:47 PM   #32
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Name: Jennifer
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Patricia - Thank you for your kind words! This community has been amazing. And yes, it's great to see so many women on here digging in!


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:51 PM   #33
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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A few good arguments for keeping the tank are
Your not going to use the space for anything else anyway.
It is not heavy, (empty).
Another future purchaser may want it, and who knows, maybe you may want it one day. Ever plan to go to Burning Man?

If you do remove it, post it for sale, or store it. Throwing it away would be a shame.

That said, I never use mine. Seems like a lot of maintenance to me. I use bottled water for drinking, and cooking, and campground water for washing. Also, if you do remove it, then that space could be accessible for storage, with a trap door.

Oh ya, Maybe think of adding your Trillium to the serial number list.
Serial numbers on a Trillium
Maybe start at the back and work your way forward.
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Old 08-26-2016, 01:35 PM   #34
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Name: Jennifer
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David - Still contemplating the water tank, but you made some good points. Maybe I will keep it...

So I started looking at what I will need to do to take out the kitchen. I removed the sink. And have detached the stove, except for the propane line. Can I safely remove this myself? Do I need to cap it off? There is no propane tank. I'm not sure I even want to install propane when I start putting things back together. Much like the water tank, it just seems easier. Any thoughts on this?
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I also came across this indent on the door side of the trailer just behind the wheel well. Any ideas why it would be there? There is not a matching one on the other side.
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With the purchase of a reciprocating saw and a Dremel multi-tool, I was able to finally remove the fridge cabinet!
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At the bottom there are two separate holes that wires run through. Should I leave these? Patch one and make the other bigger so they can both run through the same hole?
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Of course there were nasty surprises too! Where the cabinet met the ceiling, the fiberglass is staring to give way. It looks like maybe someone attempted to do something, but only with silicone on the roof. Ugh. After I patch it, will it be strong enough to support the cabinet which itself is a support structure? I don't need to drill it out do I - I assume I can just clean it up and patch it with the remaining structure in place?

Roof crack on the ceiling on the left side of the fridge cabinet.
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Roof crack on the ceiling on the right side of the fridge cabinet.
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Not to be outdone, the front left corner of the wheel well also has a large crack.
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Things seem to be working on the one-step-forward-two-steps-back rule of thumb. But it's all progress - right?!?
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:45 AM   #35
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Name: Dave W
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Fibreglass is amazingly easy to work with.
Sand it clean
Mix up some polyester resin
Paint it on the freshly sanded glass
Put on some fibreglass mat
Paint, or dab on more resin to saturate the mat
Repeat the last 3 steps as required

The resin starts to harden in about 20 min. So don't mix up too much.

As long as the propane is off, you can remove the propane line. It can be removed from the stove with a wrench. That is a flare fitting, and the nut will stay on the propane supply line.
This stuff necessary is all available at Princess Auto.

The indent by the door looks to be for a through shell fitting. Maybe for an electrical inlet?
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:01 PM   #36
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Trailer: (3)Trillium 4500,(4)Trillium 1300
Ardmore, Alabama
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My guess on the blue and white wire at the wheel well is for electric brakes.. Does the other side have the same wires.. My Trillium 4500 has the same wires and they are for electric brakes...
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:34 PM   #37
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
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Progress and questions...

David - Propane line is out. The trailer didn't come with a tank, so I figured I was okay to proceed! I have a boating friend who is trading fibreglass tutorials for some ribs on our smoker - deal!

Randy - I'll have to check the other side, but there is no controller for electric brakes - maybe it's missing?

And then there was nothing. Except for a large pile of waste!

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The inside is pretty barren.
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What a mess of wires!
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And of course, more questions...
What do you think this second hole beside the propane line might be for?
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Does it really look like this added metal roof support is doing *any* good?
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When I took off the interior casing for the fan, layers of the plywood fell down. It was that rotten.
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Now on to the practical next step questions. I can handle sanding/scraping off all the lingering insulation, dried resin, and wood fibres from the shell to clean it up. But next I want to remove and reseal all the openings (windows, door, vents) so that I can get the shell leak free.

How do I remove these - I think they are pop rivets?!? And then how do I reattach it to the shell?
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The wood framing around the windows need to be replaced in some parts. How do I attach the new pieces of wood? Some of the old pieces were attached with glue/resin and screwed to the shell from the outside. What do I do with these screws that are rusted and sticking into the shell where the wood used to be? They are fibreglassed in on the outside of the shell. (Is this making sense?!?)

Thanks everyone for your wise words!
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:57 PM   #38
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The controller wouldn't be in the trailer, it would be in the tow vehicle... The pop rivets can be easily removed by drilling them out, if they are 3/16 pop rivets then use a 3/16 bit, if 1/8 use a 1/8 bit... To re-attach just re-pop rivet them back in with the same size rivets once you clean the vents if that's you plans...Glue the wood strips around the windows and use c-clamps to hold them until it dries..
I replaced all the screws around the windows with stainless steel screws I bought off E-bay.. I bought 1" number #10 I think, I know they were 1" and I bought like 1000 for a small amount and I've been using them about every day. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they carry small plastic bends of several different sizes and types of stainless steel screws, bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts.. I bought several and use the screws and bolts from window crank handles to holding the stove in place... never use something that will rust away, just doesn't make sense.....
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:11 PM   #39
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Harbor Freight carries pop-rivets in several different sizes also, buy really all you will need is a few 1/8 and several 3/16, they have Pop-rivet pliers also (the tool you need to install pop-rivets).
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:53 PM   #40
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Trailer: 1977 Trillium 1300
Ontario
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Goodness! You have quite a project ahead of you but are attacking it with gusto! It will be great to watch your project progress.

I will throw my two cents in concerning your water tank. I took one look at the grungy 40 year old tank and water lines and decided to chuck the whole thing! The tank was damaged anyway and neither the city water faucett or the pump faucett worked. I decided I'd rather have more storage space under the dinette seat and I could just carry jugs of water if boondocking.

I replaced the city water system with new tubing and a new goose neck "bar sink" faucett from Lowe's, capping off the unneeded hot water line. It fit just nicely into the old pump faucett hole.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:14 PM   #41
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Name: Jennifer
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Okay, so I've been quiet but I have been making *some* progress. Things have slowed down considerably as back-to-school applies to me as well. My full-time job is really impacting my reno progress...

I have posted some other threads on here about specific questions, about a variety of topics and have received great advice. So, as it stands now, I'm keeping the water tank and the propane. All options are open for me or the next owner.

I figured out how to get the pop rivets off, and when the butyl tape gets here I will remove the vent, strip the paint on the vent and on the shell around it and reinstall. I'm slowly scraping all the leftover foam off the shell and trying to get it to a point where it's clean.

In this process I made a REALLY unfortunate discovery. I was examining the floor near one corner where a hole had been made to bring in the electrical from the tow wiring (please excuse my lack of correct terms).

You can see the large drilled out hole, but there is another smaller hole on the top right.
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This is a closer picture of the smaller hole, below the cracked floor with the tongue of the frame visible beyond.
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When I checked outside, there is a crack in the shell on the front of the trailer where it meets the frame.
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Here is a closer shot.
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So...I believe I now have to separate the fibreglass shell from the frame in order to fix it properly. This is where I need your help. How does one go about separating the shell from the frame? I figure I have to get all the bolts out, jack up the shell and then slide out the frame. Is this right? What do I use to jack up the shell? How do I go about fixing it once it is apart?

I'm getting frustrated with how extensive this project is becoming. It really is more than I bargained for. But, I wanted to learn new things, so it is certainly checking that box! I'm determined, and even if it takes me another summer (after next) I will see this though.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:30 AM   #42
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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Jenifer, I really admire your perseverance. I don't know anything about the Jubilee. So all I can say is that the procedure to remove the coach from the frame is exactly like you suggest, for the 1300 and 4500 Trilliums.
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