1980? Trillium Jubilee Reno - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-06-2016, 09:35 PM   #43
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Wow,
What a job! Too many questions to answer. I'll try a few.

I'm with Dave on the water tank. I'd keep it.

One of he second holes could be for the fridge drainage.

My suggestion is to slow down a bit. Gutting a trailer is not like gutting a house. All the cabinets and stuff are also part of your support. Consider your trailer to have a hybrid skeleton. Part exoskeleton like a lobster and part regular skeleton like a human. The shell is your exoskeleton, the components the internal skeleton. When combined properly they make for an amazingly strong structure.

Keep a log book. Measure everything you pull out. Write down your picture numbers. You are going to want something when you start rebuilding. If it isn't rotten, don't throw it out. You may want to know what something looked like when you go to replace it.

Make templates from the wood cabinets you are pulling.

My gut says this will have to be a frame off restoration. Do the floors first,then temporarily support the ceiling. and take it from there.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:45 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Wizard765 View Post
I used an air chisel to get my old floor up. It was the same as yours and all rotted out. When I replaced it I used an adhesive that a renovator friend of mine recommended and it is applied like foam. It is gap filling and allowed for a great and fairly easy install.. IF you like I can ask again what that product was..
Yes please ask and post the answer. Someone may want to know this in the future.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:51 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
The windows are on my hit list. I also need to replace the back one, half of it is fixed plexiglass and we want as much air circulation as possible!
The Jubilee gives you an advantage over many other fiberglass trailers. Most of the walls are flat. You can keep your eye out for slightly larger windows from stick built trailers and simply cut your holes larger.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:07 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
You can see the large drilled out hole, but there is another smaller hole on the top right.
Attachment 99418
You have mentioned multiple holes and multiple wires a number of times.
On this one, my guess is the smaller hole is where the gas line came into the trailer. Gas and electrical never go through the same hole.

The same can be said for 12V and 120v.

The white and blue wires you asked about earlier. I'm with Randy - thinking they are for the brakes. Having the wires pass through separately is like the old knob and tube wiring in houses. Brake wires can carry some fairly high amps, keeping them separate is keeping them from easily shorting out.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:03 AM   #47
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Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
I also need to replace the back one, half of it is fixed plexiglass
I had missed that comment. I'm not sure if you mean to replace the entire window with a full jalousie unit.
The back window on all the Trilliums I've seen have the jalousies on one half and plain glass on the other. The plain glass is the emergency exit, as it can be open quickly by releasing two latches on the side and then the window can lift up. There is no screen on that side either. I would keep the emergency exit functional.
If yours is now a plexiglass, may be the original glass pane broke and was replaced by a previous owner. Plexiglass is fine but tends to scratch easily. If you need to replace it, you can get another plexiglas or real glass. Not sure if specific type of glass is required (tempered glass?) but any place that sells glass will be be able to provide you with what you need.
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:16 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
Okay, so I've been quiet but I have been making *some* progress. Things have slowed down considerably as back-to-school applies to me as well. My full-time job is really impacting my reno progress...

I have posted some other threads on here about specific questions, about a variety of topics and have received great advice. So, as it stands now, I'm keeping the water tank and the propane. All options are open for me or the next owner.

I figured out how to get the pop rivets off, and when the butyl tape gets here I will remove the vent, strip the paint on the vent and on the shell around it and reinstall. I'm slowly scraping all the leftover foam off the shell and trying to get it to a point where it's clean.

In this process I made a REALLY unfortunate discovery. I was examining the floor near one corner where a hole had been made to bring in the electrical from the tow wiring (please excuse my lack of correct terms).

You can see the large drilled out hole, but there is another smaller hole on the top right.
Attachment 99418

This is a closer picture of the smaller hole, below the cracked floor with the tongue of the frame visible beyond.
Attachment 99419

When I checked outside, there is a crack in the shell on the front of the trailer where it meets the frame.
Attachment 99416

Here is a closer shot.
Attachment 99417

So...I believe I now have to separate the fibreglass shell from the frame in order to fix it properly. This is where I need your help. How does one go about separating the shell from the frame? I figure I have to get all the bolts out, jack up the shell and then slide out the frame. Is this right? What do I use to jack up the shell? How do I go about fixing it once it is apart?

I'm getting frustrated with how extensive this project is becoming. It really is more than I bargained for. But, I wanted to learn new things, so it is certainly checking that box! I'm determined, and even if it takes me another summer (after next) I will see this though.

Thanks in advance!
If I had mine apart as far as you have I would have taken the shell off the frame and sand blasted the frame for a repaint.. I believe it is a few bolts and most likely rusted so cutting or grinding them off may be necessary.. Replace with stainless when it's time to reassemble.
On the other hand if your frame is not rusty and you don't want to remove the shell from the frame you could patch that hole from the inside and it should be fine..
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:46 PM   #49
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Roy - I did do a speedy gut, mostly because it needed it and I knew once school started and then the snow started flying, I would be mostly sidelined until spring. I took a ton of photos/measurement, I do have a journal and I have kept key internal structures. This site steered me in the right direction from the start.

Carl - Thanks for the window info! I missed that detail when I was looking at Jubilee pictures online. I'll pursue the tempered glass route, but I think my frame is broken. The current plexiglass is siliconed in. Any chance you would be able to send me photos of your window?!?

Wayne - Much like the rest of the trailer, the frame is a mess. I will take this opportunity to clean it up!
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:32 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
chance you would be able to send me photos of your window?!?
Sure, no problem. I'm away from home for the next few days, I'll try to snap a few pictures next weekend (don't hesitate to remind me if I forget!!)
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:38 AM   #51
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Smile

You go girl. I'm having flashbacks of the beginning of our journey. Except you are moving at breakneck speed. Be careful, don't break your neck. I have a couple of things to add. Don't miss the forest for the trees. This may take a while so don't be discouraged.

Regarding holes and cracks. As has already been stated, fiberglass is a wonderful thing. Im really glad that you have a friend to help you. That alone will give you peace of mind that you are doing it correctly. I think that I mentioned to you in a pm that our trailer/ frame had some broken places that we may not have seen. Our camper is put together differently that yours. When we took the floor out, the frame was completely exposed from the top. We still had to lift our shell to get the trailer out.

If you have a way to lift your shell and examine (and while it is off sand and paint) the trailer you will be sure to find any problems. Not sure where your trailer meets the shell that should be the only place that you need to support. We used 4 jacks, concrete blocks and some 2x4s to support our shell. Once the trailer was out we lowered the shell to a safer height.

I think you are already doing this, but try to determine the origin of all holes and cracks. There could be a rub from a problem elsewhere that will return if you dont address it now.

That band across your ceiling looks like something added post factory. They may have been trying to fix a sag. Lots of these little guys sag and that in its self can cause lots of mysteries. Maybe you could determine if there is a problem with sag by measuring floor to ceiling in several places. I see that you have ceiling supports in place, if you put them at the height of the existing ceiling you may still be able to determine. If not possible now, when you reassemble be aware. when we reassembled we fiberglassed wood cleats to reattach our cabinets and closest. We also added some additional supports (in a decorative manner). I think this helped reinforce our structural integrity.

I too wanted to close up every single hole that could possibly leak. And we did! We had to make fresh holes for electrical and ceiling venting. We used a 3M heavy duty double sided tape it to install the awning track, the drip guards, and our outside door swing stopper, not sure what it's called. They are still working great with no sign of failure, and I put a lot of tension on that awning track.

Try not to sand silicone. Remove as much as you can with a blade. Then wash with denatured alcohol keeping the rubbing place as small as possible, before you sand. Nothing sticks to silicone. I think Donna told me that.

Prep every surface properly. Follow directions on product, no shortcuts. Preparation is key for materials to function at their best.

Be safe...eye protection, skin protection, lung protection, ear protection.

If you can.... beg, borrow or steal somewhere indoors to work thru your winter. It will help you maintain your momentum. Ok, don't steal.

Have fun!

I haven't said much, if anything, that I didn't learn from the great people on this forum. I think you may ask as many questions as I did. Questions are good, that's how we learn. They were patient and kind. Hey, I just realized I'm one of you guys now. I can't offer as much as some but I got a little to give! Some opinions vary. Consider everything, take what works for you, and leave the rest.

I'm excited for you and look forward to following your progress.
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:39 PM   #52
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Things have quieted down on the restoration front, but I'm still plugging along. As Cat mentioned, and Karin in her thread, once the initial flurry of activity is over it's easy to lose focus and momentum. There is SO much to do. It's overwhelming. I made a list, that's helping me focus better and still feel like things are moving forward. I have been doing small but very time consuming jobs. Carl talked at length about the dreaded silicone on his blog, and that has been my nemesis these past weeks.

I've removed all the screw covers on the windows and scraped the silicone. This is before the scraping started.
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After several applications of Silicone Be Gone and subsequent scraping, the window areas are starting to clean up nicely.
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I need to replace all the top interior window supports - they are rotting from water damage. I'm following Carl's lead and using Cedar, but there is nothing readily available in the size I need (1' x 1 3/4'). So I have to special order and be patient. While I wait, I'll prep all the areas surrounding the windows by getting rid of the silicone.

While doing the window cleaning I noticed a model number on that plexiglass window. I need to google it and see what information I can find.
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Also, the plexiglass window is held in place by yet more silicone and wooden quarter-round . That's not going to work when I replace it with tempered glass. Does anyone have any experience taking these vintage windows somewhere to be fixed? Any ideas where I should start looking?


In all the scraping I've discovered that there are two coats of paint on the top of half of the trailer, and three coats of paint on the bottom. Since I'm a sucker for punishment, I'm also going to strip all those paint layers off and try and expose the gel coat.

I also freed the floor bolts from the remaining subfloor. Thank you Dremel!

Before...
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After...
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Realistically, I won't be able to separate the shell from the frame until the Spring. I hope to get the windows resealed and get started on some of the fibreglass patch work. Any progress is good progress!

Cheers!
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Old 05-25-2017, 03:10 PM   #53
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Trailer: Trillium Jubilee 79?
Alberta
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Regarding the foam

Hey I just recently got myself a little Jubilee and I too am taking the insulation foam out, but am having a hard time deciding what to replace it with. I was wondering if you have replaced yours yet? Or know what your going to use?
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:36 PM   #54
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Hey I just recently got myself a little Jubilee and I too am taking the insulation foam out, but am having a hard time deciding what to replace it with. I was wondering if you have replaced yours yet? Or know what your going to use?


Congrats on your purchase! I've done some scouting around. Ensolite is hard to find out east, and expensive, so I'm looking for an alternative. There is this product called EcoFoam that Home Depot sells as carper underlay, but it's too thin. I was there the other day and found what looks like a closed cell foam material, it's a few mm thinner than it should be, but maybe that won't matter?!?
I won't be ready to insulate until next year. Too much other work to get done in the too short summer season! Here is a photo of the label on the shelf. I hope it attaches properly...
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