1980? Trillium Jubilee Reno - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:46 PM   #1
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
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1980? Trillium Jubilee Reno

So I have just acquired a Trillium Jubilee that needs lots of love. I have fairly limited building/construction/renovation experience, but I figure the best way to learn is by doing!

Here are the bare bones as they exist right now.
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:04 PM   #2
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The floor is rotting and still wet. I'm thinking that there is water under the sub-floor. So, I assume that the floor needs to go. And with it I think all the cabinetry, it is damaged too.

Here are a couple of shots of the wet wood and water damage.

Just inside the door I ripped up a chunk of the floor to see underneath.
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The front (the end nearest to the trailer tongue?) corner.
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Bottom of the cabinet that holds the fridge.
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Can I just start ripping it out, is it that straightforward? I would keep the cabinet intact wherever possible as a reference for replacement.

Once all the sub-floor is up, can I walk on the bare fibreglass bottom? Should I lay down a plank of wood to act as a balance beam/catwalk?
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:07 PM   #3
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Name: Jennifer
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Also, there is a metal beam that runs across the ceiling towards the front of the trailer. Is this standard for a Trillium Jubilee? Or is it something that was installed to fix some yet unseen problem?

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Old 08-20-2016, 01:14 PM   #4
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Name: Jennifer
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Nova Scotia
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One last question for today. Dealing with the insulation. I assume it all needs to come out incase there is water trapped/travelling behind it.

It is peeling off in some spots.
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In other spots there are chunks missing and it has been painted over.
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Once it's out (if that is the right way to go), do I need to replace it? Does anyone just paint the fibreglass shell and go insulation free? If not, where does one get the insulation, know what to get, and how do you get the funky white bumpy coating over it all?!?
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:16 PM   #5
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Name: Jennifer
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Thanks so much for your help, in advance. I wanted to seek some advice before I did anything. Can't undo a demolition...
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:05 PM   #6
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That foam insulation looks different than the one in my 5500.
The usual Ensolite insulation (I assume that's what I have, I never compared with any other Trillium) is about 1/4" thick, black, closed cell foam, coated with an off-white vinyl.
The type of insulation in your pictures looks like a thicker yellow open cell foam (holds water like a sponge) and covered with a textured vinyl that I call "popcorn" finish. I did found some of that stuff inside my 5500, along the belley band, behind the actual Ensolite. I was about 1/2" thick. I figured it was there to fill the recess inside the trailer where the belly band is, to make the interior wall even. Under the windows, the stuff was wet and full of mold. Also, that foam looked much more fragile than Ensolite, looked much easier to tear off and rip apart. Is the entire interior of your camper insulated with this?

I have not done extensive floor repairs in mine, but I know the fiberglass shell is rather thin, and I would not walk on it without a proper plywood load spreader over the trailer's frame.

I'm not sure how the interior of the Jubilee is, but before demolishing cabinets, be aware that quite often the cabinets are part of the trailer's structure, and are used to support or brace the fiberglass shell / roof. I would have at least temporary braces ready to put in place if required. Also, note how and where the cabinets are attached to the shell, in mine the cabinets are screwed in glassed-in wood backers and/or the wood of the window frames. Keep the old cabinets to use as a template to rebuilt new ones if that's your plan.
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Old 08-20-2016, 03:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
Once it's out (if that is the right way to go), do I need to replace it? Does anyone just paint the fibreglass shell and go insulation free? If not, where does one get the insulation, know what to get, and how do you get the funky white bumpy coating over it all?!?
You will need to re-insulate the walls with something or condensation will collect on all the walls... In winter when its cold outside and you have heat inside the walls will fog up like glass and water will run down the walls....
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:36 PM   #8
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You will need to re-insulate the walls with something or condensation will collect on all the walls... In winter when its cold outside and you have heat inside the walls will fog up like glass and water will run down the walls....

We are only planning on using the camper in the summer, maybe the odd time in the fall/spring. Will it make a big difference in the shoulder seasons? I'm open to anything at this point!


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Old 08-20-2016, 09:04 PM   #9
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So I spent my time tonight alternating between scouring these forms, and watching the broadcast of the final Tragically Hip concert ().

I think I have decided to reinstall the insulation. I'll use ensolite and paint it. Any thoughts on how to support the fibreglass shell during a gut job? Jack posts are expensive. Could 2x4s cut to fit do the job just as well?

Any other thoughts would be welcome!
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:56 AM   #10
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Could 2x4s cut to fit do the job just as well?
Absolutely. Just wedge a few 2x4 of the appropriate length where needed and put a piece of plywood (or the cut off part of the 2x4 to form a T) against the ceiling to spread the load. The shell is very light, this is just to prevent it from sagging, actually 2x3 would be more than strong enough.

I'm no Trillium insulation specialist, but one reason Ensolite is used is it can be stretched to fit the rounded shape of the FG shell. The Jubilee being squarer, there might me other alternatives to Ensolite. Some have used Reflectix ("aluminium buble wrap" that you can get at most hardware store). Now I'm not sure how better or worst it compares to Ensolite as an insulation material, cost, availability, how it is glued, what type of finish to put over it, etc, but I'm sure if you search the forum you'll find a lot of info on it.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:52 AM   #11
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Wow, this is quite a project you've taken on. Good luck, I'm subscribed!

Jonathan
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:21 AM   #12
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Name: Pamelia
Trailer: Boler
Nova Scotia
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Did a complete gut also!

Fortunately I have a wonderful person doing the work for me. The FG floor was wearing away so that was reinforced and then Drycore was put down as sub-floor to keep dry. Oh... I should mention all the little holes (numerous) were patched. Put new flexible insulation in and then rebuilding. Remember to use non-rusting screws. Mine was ready to fly off the trailer...very scary.

Good luck with yours. And have fun!
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:58 PM   #13
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
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Wishing you all the best, and breathing a huge sigh of relief that we finished our 1973 amerigo July 3 this year. I wouldn't go through all that again for anything.

I'd rather fly...and I refuse to ever fly again.

But when it's done, it is SO YOURS!

Again, best luck, happy fixing, speedy work, and eventually, good camping!

Kai in Seattle
(Kathleen & Paul near Renton, which is near Seattle)
(Our threads about "fear of fiberglassing" and "73 amerigo) show many photos of our huge mess and work

Showing the 2x4 brace to push the ceiling up before installing the floor-to-ceiling walls and galley -- Paul used a piece of plywood top AND bottom to give it lots of widespread support, and made the 2x4 a bit long, then tapped it very slowly into place with a rubber mallet. Even in the amerigo, which has a fairly sturdy roof/ceiling, it made a visible, measurable difference to support it.
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:35 PM   #14
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Thanks for the suggestions and pictures of the supports. I bought 2x3 studs, they were on sale! But I'm not ready for them yet. Today was all about starting to pull back the foam insulation and starting to rip up the floor.

First the foam. It's definitely an open-cell foam. Looks like a big, thin sponge. I don't know when it was applied, or why the choice was made.

You can see it here:
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When I removed the fridge, there was no insulation behind it. Also the cabinet that holds the fridge didn't go all the way back to meet the fiberglass shell. I'm assuming that is wrong - right?!? Shouldn't the backside of the cabinets meet the shell? Can someone let me know if I'm right on this one?

Notice the gap between the cabinet and the wall, the lack of insulation, and the black mould on the edge of the foam.
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Also the gap on the other side of the fridge cabinet. Also no insulation and a random bead of caulking.
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This is a piece that runs across the upper part of the wall, above the window and then under the shelf above the dining area. I'm not sure how it is attached, and what it is attached to. I want to take it off, the foam is behind it. Is removing this strip a bad idea?
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And then the floor. It was so rotten in some places that it was disintegrating as I removed it.
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I'm not sure how the subfloor was attached. In some parts it popped right up, and in others it has almost become part of the frame. You can see in this picture the wood fibers that are imbedded in the resin (?) or whatever was used to attach it. At the bottom of the photo you can see the edge of the dried adhesive and the fibreglass shell. How do I deal with this?
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In amongst the shards of rotten floor and super resin I found a bolt and two screws. Any ideas what these would be for?

I assume this is the bolt that attaches the body to the frame. Does it have to go through the new flooring?
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These are two random screws that are coming up from the underside of the shell. Not sure why they are there for. Was thinking I would just slice them off and pretend they were never there. Thoughts?
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This is the money shot of today's flooring accomplishments.
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Also, I took great pleasure in my coordinated reno gear. It's the little things...
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Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:19 PM   #15
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Hey Jennifer, I think you're doing pretty good!

You might to take a look at my renovation thread:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...0-a-71346.html

My trailer is different from yours, but it's a Trillium of the same vintage, and the Jubilee and the 5500 probably share some construction designs, as they're the only Trilliums with wood interiors, and there might be things I've done in mine will be similar in yours.

In post #37, you will see where I found some of that open cell foam under the rear window along the belly band (there was some under the front window as well). That foam was loaded with yucky mold.

In my thread you will also see how the wood frame of the windows is also used the attach cabinets in the inside (post #43). This may explain that piece if wood you have above a window.

I also had to repair a small area of my floor, see post #56.

There is much more detailed information in my restoration blog:
Trillium5500
However it is in french, but I've put a Google Translate link on the right column. Translation is not perfect, but you'll get the point. If you need more info, just ask. This is all new for me too, so I don't know everything, but I'll try to help.
On my blog you will see how I've redone the inside of my fridge cabinet with reflectix.

For the gap between the cabinets and walls: There was a small gap like this on mine, but nothing some caulk couldn't seal. In mine at least, I'm pretty sure the partitions were designed to meet the outside wall. Now the Jubilee might be different, who knows. Hopefully some Jubilee owners here will be able to help.

Now for the floor, I'm guessing you were able to remove most of the rotten plywood. A nice power tool to have (if you don't already have one) that can be used to scrape the remaining wood fibers is an oscillating multi-tool. I've never done an extensive floor repair like you're doing, but I'm guessing the goal is to get a smooth underfloor where you'll be able to lay a new plywood. So I would cut those screw tips showing, and those big bolts will have to be removed as well. They hold the shell to the frame. On my trailer I had to replace one, it wasn't that hard to get out with the proper wrench (from under the trailer) or you can alway cut it off, then I hammer it out. Replacement bolts can be found at the hardware store (carriage bolts), and they will have to go through the new plywood floor (drill from under).
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:31 PM   #16
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Someone else suggested a while back that what looks reasonable when stationary can cause a grinding effect when in motion. We used all our old materials as templates, and every time we varied (much) we found out later WHY it had been made that way.

I'm assuming your scamp was made as intelligently as our amerigo...change things like wall sizes and placements only with at least one night of sleeping on it, preferably more. Consider outside the box, as it were. If the wall didn't touch the shell, maybe that's as it should be. But then again, maybe you can improve on designs made for quick commercial production. It'll be your call, of course.

It's an exhilarating mental challenge to piece one of these things back together--heck, we found just taking it apart to be a lot more engrossing than the best jigsaw puzzle we ever worked.

Good photos!
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:39 PM   #17
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@Carl - Thanks for the advice. I'll check out your thread/blog and let you know if I have any questions. My french is a little rusty, so I think I'll use that Google translate tool!

@Kai - The trailer is a trillium, not a scamp. All the furnishing are wooden, nothing molded in fiberglass. I'm not sure that *any* of the interior is original! I don't want to follow anything the previous renovator did as so much of it went wrong. Good point though about maybe leaving a little wiggle room!
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:28 AM   #18
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Jubilee

Hi jennydeans,

I'm in PEI, and I have a Jubilee too! I spent the spring of 2014 fixing her up. I call her JulieBee

During my Reno I got pictures from a couple other Jubilee owners, and had to make a few things up along the way. If i can help, let me know!

I'm attaching a photo of my boyfriend enjoying my camper, lol, looks like I only have pics of him with it!

Have fun!

Bee
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennygdeans View Post
@Carl - Thanks for the advice. I'll check out your thread/blog and let you know if I have any questions. My french is a little rusty, so I think I'll use that Google translate tool!

@Kai - The trailer is a trillium, not a scamp. All the furnishing are wooden, nothing molded in fiberglass. I'm not sure that *any* of the interior is original! I don't want to follow anything the previous renovator did as so much of it went wrong. Good point though about maybe leaving a little wiggle room!


Oh, dear, of course a Trillium, and a Jubilee at that. I even remember noting that when I read the first post. My cortical node must have degraded. Will do a level 5 diagnostic stat.

So you're in the same "boat" as us, with a wooden interior. I like the wooden interior, myself. Paul patched over 80 fiberglass holes, everything from pinholes to 2 x 3 feet; he'll redo another 18" x 18" area over the winter; one of his first fixes that he wants to change..

Our various walls, supports, etc., had deteriorated badly, but as far as we could tell, were original. There were plenty of things the PO and PPO and PPPO had messed up, but it wasn't the basic structures, so they made good templates. The floor was where people had torn out the original and patched to the point where we were mostly on our own...that was a bit harder but Paul used heavy cardboard and made his own templates--in a measure 10 times, cut too big and trim 9 times kind of thing.

Watching your progress with interest!


(see the dip in the lower side just in front of the wheel well? It was a leaking access port he took out and glassed over--now he'll remove the dip, too, making it nice and flat there.)
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:04 AM   #20
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Hey Jen,

Regarding those bolts...they probably are holding the shell to the trailer and if they are, be sure to replace them. Check underneath to make sure there is another suitable place to replace them. I recommend bolts rather than screws.

Regarding the two screws. They will likely have to be cut off to allow the new floor to seat well. Again, check from underneath. They may be holding something to the bottom of the trailer. If they are you will have to figure out a way to replace them.

Another tip about the trailer. Be sure to check the integrity. When we did a total rebuild of our Love bug we found welds that were completely broken. While the trailer was exposed we had repairs made, then sanded and repainted.

Regarding the cabinets, I agree with Kai about things that don't make sense having a purpose. The cabinets may have pulled away if the shell has sagged. When you put the jacks in check to see if the gaps change. And I'm guessing that strap that goes from one side to the other helps to support the shell.

Before you take things apart take lots of pictures and lots of notes. Include a ruler or measuring tape beside the subject. It will be a big help when trying to put the pieces back together.

Regarding the floor, we got an oscelating tool from harbor freight) in fact I think we have gone through 3 of them. Lol. You can also use a sander to get that wood away from the floor. Sand by hand or use a power sander 60 grit paper. I wouldn't us a belt sander on anything, it removes allot of material, sometimes too much. Check to see if the wood embedded in the fiberglass or if it is glued on. This may help when it is time to reatttach the floor.

You do have a big project ahead of you but it will be soo worth it.

Cathy
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