1981 scamp rebuild where to start - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-11-2013, 05:22 PM   #15
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Name: danny
Trailer: 1981 Scamp
Florida
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Scamp was just dropped off at the frame shop to install the axle. Will have it back this weekend to start building. It has been striped in side. The rear floor is out, it had some bad spots. i have my new plexi for the windows. the new rubber come in to day for the front and rear glass. I cant find crank out windows to fit, and with one missing going to take the other side out. Going to do the side windows like the rear window.

I have 50ft on new rubber for the windows. is a one piece rubber that i could only order in 50ft roll. ! needed 20ft for the front and rear glass. any one that need rubber for there rebuild i have left over.

I have a hammer, nails and duck tape i can fix it.

Danny
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:41 PM   #16
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Danny,
I have a 1994 13' Casita trailer, I need to replace the axle too. I don't even know where to begin on having it fixed, any advice? My trailer was a gift from my dad, so I am a little clueless on these things.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illy27 View Post
Danny,
I have a 1994 13' Casita trailer, I need to replace the axle too. I don't even know where to begin on having it fixed, any advice? My trailer was a gift from my dad, so I am a little clueless on these things.
You can have a new axle installed at one of these dealers. If it doesn't have brakes on it now, this would be an excellent time to have them installed.

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Texas
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:15 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1981 Scamp
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Hi Illy
i just got in from the install on my spring axle. I checked with 4 trailer shops to get a matching axle and was told by all 4 shops that dexter axles is a 4 to 7 week turn around to get one. that is the best way to go but for me i went with a dexter spring unit so i could get it back to the house so i can work on it. i had the rear floor out and missing one window and did not want it open to the elements.
now in my set up i lost from the front of fenders back to the bed of the lowered floor to make room for the springs. i could have added a 2x2 tube under the frame and not lose the lowered floor but then it would have lifted the trailer that 2in more that i did not want. springs will raise your trailer unless you do as i did. and i can get you pics if you want to see what i did.
i have been a heavy equiment mechanic for 20 some years and springs on trailers has been used lots longer then torsion bars. and springs don't wear out every 20 years. and most all other rv manufactures use springs for a reason.
i got my axle installed by a welder and frame repairs for $375.00. dexter axle is to days price $450.00 plus the welder cost.

i have a hammer, nails and duck tape i will fix it
danny
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:27 PM   #19
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One more thing dexter dose not warranty there axles if they are put in as leading like scamp has installed them. they say they will not hold up working that way. so you would have to do frame rebuilding to install them for dexter warranty.

i have a hammer ,nails and duck tape i will fix it

danny
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:37 PM   #20
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Danny, always open to differing opinions, but I think that your's is in the minority here. The torsion axles are used for a reason on most FG campers. With the independent suspension, the center of the axle doesn't move up so the campers can be low. They are also light, durable and provide damping that a leaf spring does not.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:45 PM   #21
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I under stand all that Tom, and if they was ready to ship to me that is what i would have done and moved it to a trailing arm, but summer is around the corner and 4 to 7 weeks to get an axle was not in my plans.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:44 PM   #22
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You may need to install shocks on that leaf spring axle....
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:34 PM   #23
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What a rough day installing the front window has to be an easer way. have installed back windows in trucks of all sizes, but this was a big pain. I used new rubber. A one piece rubber that has the sealing bead made with the gasket. That was not the problem, its the four curves in the body that i was trying to put a flat plexie in. like trying to pot a squire peg in a round hole. all the normal ways string lube did not work, after 3 hours i figured it out and new glass is in the front of my scamp. With it 2in larger, i cut the fiberglass 2in lower to give me a larger window on the front.
After cutting the hole larger and trying to install the rubber gasket i seen the fiber glass was a 1/4in thick in that area. the rubber i have is for 1/16 thick fiberglass that is what was showing in frame on window hole.... took my grinder and cut from the inside and got it down to 1/8in and then rubber worked ok.
I ended up setting the plexie in the bottom rubber and snapped in the center 12in of the seal. went to the top on the window and locked in the center 10in. with the top and bottom locked in i worked 2in at a time to the four corners. one curve at a time and it finally popped in place. now maybe the back glass will go in easier.

i have a hammer, nails and duck tape i can fix it.

Danny
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:56 PM   #24
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

Been working this past week. The frame has been under coated the ply for the floor has been sprayed with under coating. I cut the front window 2 in larger and in stalled front glass. I could not find a side window so i pulled it out and installed plex, just like rear and front windows. So now i have a working scamp window with screen looking for a new place to live its life. Been scraping off all the old house paint that was put on by a previous owner... they did not sand the hull before painting the scamp.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:11 PM   #25
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Danny, you're bringing an egg back to life. You should be proud! It doesn't have to be perfect... or original. Just what works perfectly for you! Good job keep it up. I'm enjoying the rehab through pics.
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:45 PM   #26
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

Its been a long weekend but i got a few things done. The floor is all in and screwed down. half of the floor is glassed back to the wall. I used kitty hair and packed it in to fill all the seams against the wall and finders. I may come in later and use cloth and class over them seams. Im not sure if that is needed.

I pulled off the door to rebuild the hinges. And what a mess i come up with. On the door where the lower hinge hangs i found a crack in the glass. I ground out a channel and used the kitty hair and filler on the out side of the door. On the inside of the door i cleaned off the padding down to the class and i layered a 1/8in of glass to reinforce the repair. While i was working on the door. i removed the door cover on the bottom of the door and found that there was less then a 32th of an in of glass. the gel coat was thicker then the glass. So again I laid an 1/8in of glass covering the bottom of the door and a few inches up the side. I know this scamp has been like this for 32 years, but a little help will make it easer on her to live life another 30 years.

With the rebuilt hinges and rehanging squire on the scamp with all new S.S. bolts, she looks as good as new. just needs a paint job.

looking back at what i started with. she does not look half bad.

I have a hammer,nails and duck tape i can fix it.

Danny
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:58 PM   #27
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Trailer: Scamp 1981 16 foot
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Danny, I just got a 1981 16ft Scamp last April, lots of that black mold crap all over the inside. I just used Clorox clean up in a spry jug and a scrub brush. It comes off real nice. My seam tape had all yellowed and was falling off, just took a razor blade and made a small cut on both sides of the seams and used a white caulk to fill in the crack. looks real good and did not have to mess with a re-tape.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:23 PM   #28
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With all the things i have rebuilt i have found the Dap 35 year caulking holds up the best with the greatest sticking power. and it does not yellow after time, and takes paint great, i have used Dap to repair rubber roofs on rvs the past 10 years. and the first one i did is still leak proof.

i have been living full time rv, and working at the rv park, and on units passing through the past 10 years. I some what know what works and what don't.

i have a hammer, nails and duck tape, i can fix it.

Danny
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