1981 scamp rebuild where to start - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-31-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

This weekend we installed the new roof vent. Some people don't know what they are doing, they cut the rivet tops off to remove the original sky light leaving the rest of the rivets in place, laying 3/4 plywood to cover the hole. using some type of tape caulking to seal the gap where the rivets are. Then cutting a hole in the plywood to install the 14 x 14 skylight they used. With all of the sheetrock screws trying to pull the plywood down to the body it distroyed the fiberglass with a 100 plus holes. When sheetrock screws rust they tear fiberglass while removing. lucky my vent was 17 x 22 escape hatch vent and i could cut away all of the old fiberglass to install my new vent.

Next I installed two boat hatches that are floor hatches in fishing boats. I installed them just behind the finders to give me excess to the under side bed storage from the outside. i used a 11 by 16 on each side, because of the curves this is the largest I felt i could put in. They look like going to work like i wanted.

Then i mounted my tail lights. they are aftermarket trailer light that are round metal frame with the flange to screw on the out side of the trailer. What i am doing is frenching mine by installing the light on the inside wall. i drilled the hole as if i was using the flange on the out side, but instead i bolted it on the inside. i will be fiberglassing them in from the in side then removing the screws and glassing the out side.

Any one needing the original 1981 scamp taillight lens they can have them for the cost of shipping.

I have a hammer, nails and duck tape. i can fit it.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:11 PM   #30
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

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Old 04-07-2013, 08:14 PM   #31
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

I did some work on the inside this weekend. I was reading some time back about how out of square that scamps are, well he was right. I was working on the bed area. i took a measurement of the braces that was glassed in to lay the bed on. I got a 14 5/8 measurement from the top of the glassed in rail to the floor. I built the front wall with drawers framed in. I installed the draw front. Then when i laid the level across the frame to line up the inter walls. What a mess I have ended up with. one side is 15in to the top, the other side is 13 1/4. Some one must not have been able to read a level or a tape measure. I am going to have to cut out 6in of the railing scamp used to set the benches on to get it down to the 14 5/8 the rest of the railing i will have to shim up to where i need it. But hay! I have duck tape, i will fix it. much simpler the what i have done to put new cabinets in an old wooden floor house to level. But here are some pic's of what i have.

I have a hammer, nails and duck tape, i can fix it.

danny
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:18 PM   #32
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Should be easy for you.
You already know it's duck tape and not duct tape.
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #33
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

Duck tape or duct tape,, A name is just a name. and yes it is duct tape. but then its not used as duct tape in heat and air by most codes

But then there is me. A yankee in Florida from South Carolina, from Texas, from Indiana. With a 6th grade education that uses duck tape.

Danny
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:32 PM   #34
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I was just pointing out that you are one of very few who call the tape by its proper name - Duck tape. Duct tape it ain't and one should never use it on ducts.
It's just another losing battle, though.<_<
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:58 PM   #35
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

Glenn. Its cool.. different places have strange names for things. In South Carolina, you ask for a chilly dog you get a bun with chilly. You have to ask for a hot dog with chilly. Don,t ask for a garden hose, they will tell you its a hose pipe. In south Texas, you don't get in the car to get some beer. you get on the car to get some brew. And then here in Florida, well I live here so i will not say.

I have a hammer, nails and duck tape. I can fix it.

Danny
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #36
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1981 scamp rebuild where to start

Its been a few weeks. I was busy building boats. But in back with some work done on the inside. I have framed out the kitchen cabinet and framed out the benches for my front dinette. I am covering the frames with birch bead board. the frames are cut to 3/4 x 1 1/4 to cut back on my weight of the wood work.
I went with a larger fridge. Most of what I have seen use the 1.7 cubic. fridge But i am using the 2.6 fridge. I used a copper color top on the counter top with eastern red cedar to rape the edges. Most of the camper will be using the red cedar to trim out. I use a lot of this to make cedar trunks and i hold on to the pieces that have lots of colors. When I am done this camper will smell like a cedar trunk.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:34 PM   #37
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Danny,

What properties does bead board have that makes it useful? I thought bead board had grooves, Is their a flat variety? How thick is it? What does it weigh? Is it water proof?

Thanks Norm
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:15 PM   #38
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Norm. I could have used 1/4in luan or about any paneling. I am building my unit like most rv are built with a stick frame covered in a light ply on the sides with a hard wood face frame. This is normal building in the rv constuction. What I am using is birch 1/4in ply that has grooves in it to make it look like board and bead panels. Is it water proof?? no. but after it is sealed like your home cabinets then it will hold up to wiping down with water. no wood product is water proof. its the clear coat you seal it. and in my unit i will be using a water based poly that is made by mimwax. I have been using this in my toy making for years. its safe for kids, no oder and fast drying.

As far as the wood face frames, weight is something I have looked at. In my toys i use many different kinds of wood. western red cedar for a 4 in long hull is .72 ounce. the same size hull in eastern red cedar is .85 ounces, spruce is .93 ounces, yellow pine is 1.55 ounces, maple or birch is 2.62 ounces, and red oak is 2.86 ounces. Now if i am using wood to build cabinets and what to build a light weight cabinet. spruce and cedar is my way to go. As far as the birch bead board i am only going to use 2 sheets for the hole build.

I have a hammer, nails and duck tape. i can fix it.

danny
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:10 AM   #39
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Danny,

Thank you for the information. I'm really an amateur builder and always interested in learning more. My projects normally remain standing but are rarely gorgious. Thank you for the information.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #40
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I have got many private messages on the construction of my cabinet work. i will get more pics. with info of what i am doing and why. but this is a weight thing thats in lots of building industries The rv and camper industry, furniture industry, and some boat industry.

danny
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:31 AM   #41
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Its been almost a year of not working on the little scamp. I have been so busy with building toys I have had no spare time to work on her.. But I am back on the job. Pics will be on the way.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:42 PM   #42
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My unit had the bunk in the front of the trailer that was removed. I used the brace that held the upper bunk as a window shelf. But I had one more idea, why not build in the shelf, pockets to use as curtain tie backs. Here is my idea and how I did it and it works great. I started with 52in stock 5in wide that I planed down to 5/8in thick to save on the weight. When i was done the shelf ended being 4in at it widest point by 49 1/2in long. It is screwed from the bottom of the ply in to western red cedar shelf.
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