1982 Burro - updating - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-23-2018, 10:01 PM   #15
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 139
Went to take a closer look at the frame while I consider replacing the frame instead of adding reenforcement.

I looked at the side frame rails under the tongue coupler. I tried measuring the metal thickness and came to 3/32", which from what I could find, comes to 13 gauge. The side rails are 1.5" x 3" rectangular tubing with 2"x2" angle running across that the body screws into. Frame width, measured from the back, came to 49.5".

If I can find a welder, I'm thinking to replace the frame with 11 gauge (1/8") 2"x4" and angle.

I noticed the bent part of the frame near the door had some plate welded and looks like it might have been broken or rusted through. The driver side had no such reenforcement and I got to see just how deformed the frame is that allowed it to bend. I could put my finger into the bend farther than expected. Another reason why I'm leaning toward replacement.

I've read others replacing old axles, and looks like I'll be doing the same with this camper. I'm looking at getting the Flexiride full-beam axle and possibly getting 7" brakes and hubs with the 4-4" bolt pattern so I can keep my current 13" wheels. If I got the 5 bolt pattern hubs, I'd get a bigger 14" wheel.

That's what I'm thinking about right now.
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:45 AM   #16
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
North Carolina
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That interior cabinetry looks really nice. I would not cut it, but look for ways to repair on the outside instead.

Frame looks scary, not much holding the tongue to the frame. Where the frame is bent by design, there often is a caved in section on one side. So probably under that plate is a caved in frame rail, on the inside.

Square tubing is stronger than angle iron, thats probably the reason you see it on main frame rails on most trailers.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:47 PM   #17
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
That interior cabinetry looks really nice. I would not cut it, but look for ways to repair on the outside instead.

Frame looks scary, not much holding the tongue to the frame. Where the frame is bent by design, there often is a caved in section on one side. So probably under that plate is a caved in frame rail, on the inside.

Square tubing is stronger than angle iron, thats probably the reason you see it on main frame rails on most trailers.
Thanks for the advice. I'll see how it looks when removing the window for fixing that area. I saw that caved in area on the driver side. Between that bend and the square tubing idea, I'll see what a welder or trailer place has to say about it. Instead of bends, maybe just welded steel at an angle will be plenty.

Using Square tubing makes sense for strength. I'm sure it'll work well. Instead of self-tapping screws, like what's on there now, I could just go with nuts/bolts to secure the body/floor to the frame.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:54 PM   #18
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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On attaching the body to the frame, have someone weld angle iron tabs on the side of the frame and attach bolts there. It weakens the frame if the bolts go all the way through the tubing.
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