1982 Burro - updating - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 12-23-2018, 10:01 PM   #15
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 168
Went to take a closer look at the frame while I consider replacing the frame instead of adding reenforcement.

I looked at the side frame rails under the tongue coupler. I tried measuring the metal thickness and came to 3/32", which from what I could find, comes to 13 gauge. The side rails are 1.5" x 3" rectangular tubing with 2"x2" angle running across that the body screws into. Frame width, measured from the back, came to 49.5".

If I can find a welder, I'm thinking to replace the frame with 11 gauge (1/8") 2"x4" and angle.

I noticed the bent part of the frame near the door had some plate welded and looks like it might have been broken or rusted through. The driver side had no such reenforcement and I got to see just how deformed the frame is that allowed it to bend. I could put my finger into the bend farther than expected. Another reason why I'm leaning toward replacement.

I've read others replacing old axles, and looks like I'll be doing the same with this camper. I'm looking at getting the Flexiride full-beam axle and possibly getting 7" brakes and hubs with the 4-4" bolt pattern so I can keep my current 13" wheels. If I got the 5 bolt pattern hubs, I'd get a bigger 14" wheel.

That's what I'm thinking about right now.
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IMG_20181222_154936.jpg   IMG_20181222_155010.jpg  

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Old 12-24-2018, 08:45 AM   #16
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
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That interior cabinetry looks really nice. I would not cut it, but look for ways to repair on the outside instead.

Frame looks scary, not much holding the tongue to the frame. Where the frame is bent by design, there often is a caved in section on one side. So probably under that plate is a caved in frame rail, on the inside.

Square tubing is stronger than angle iron, thats probably the reason you see it on main frame rails on most trailers.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:47 PM   #17
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 168
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
That interior cabinetry looks really nice. I would not cut it, but look for ways to repair on the outside instead.

Frame looks scary, not much holding the tongue to the frame. Where the frame is bent by design, there often is a caved in section on one side. So probably under that plate is a caved in frame rail, on the inside.

Square tubing is stronger than angle iron, thats probably the reason you see it on main frame rails on most trailers.
Thanks for the advice. I'll see how it looks when removing the window for fixing that area. I saw that caved in area on the driver side. Between that bend and the square tubing idea, I'll see what a welder or trailer place has to say about it. Instead of bends, maybe just welded steel at an angle will be plenty.

Using Square tubing makes sense for strength. I'm sure it'll work well. Instead of self-tapping screws, like what's on there now, I could just go with nuts/bolts to secure the body/floor to the frame.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:54 PM   #18
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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On attaching the body to the frame, have someone weld angle iron tabs on the side of the frame and attach bolts there. It weakens the frame if the bolts go all the way through the tubing.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:06 PM   #19
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 168
Went to the camper today. I got to talk to the lady who runs the storage place and how I want to work on the trailer. She basically said so long as I clean up after myself, it shouldn't be a problem to do the work there.

The main purpose of my visit was to take some measurements of the frame to make plans for replacement. Also for replacement of the axle too. One measurement I didn't get to check/confirm was the hub-face. Another post I found, the burro owner listed the measurements for their own trailer but seems a few on mine may be different. Until I get my own sorted out, it helps to get an idea of what to expect.

I started off with measurements from the end of the side rail that butts up on the inside of the angle-iron used for the rear bumper. There was a small gap at the bottom where I was able to hook on a tape measure.



The following pictures show the measurements I took at the cross beams starting from the rear.





Getting an idea of where the center of the hub is located.








a few inches forward of this last beam, the side rail bent towards the coupler on the tongue. As of now, the only change I'd make for the cross beams were to move the back one forward 4 inches or so, where it would sit under the back dining seat better, where it currently sags from soft plywood. The overall width of the trailer is 49.5" but I'm thinking it could be 49" for an even number, where it might help when ordering a new axle.

While I've seen posts about axles, I've looked at the Dexter #9 and the Flexiride axles. The current axle arms are up from the axle beam and the next one, I'm thinking either a 10 or 22 degree down would be good. The bottom of the frame is 12" high and having the arms down a bit will give it a little more clearance. Even as it is, I'm able to crawl around under it, but not by much.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:07 PM   #20
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Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
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After getting these measurements, I went inside. I removed the water and drain fittings under the sink area and plan to patch the remaining holes with fiberglass and come up with a different plan. While I was taking things apart, I removed the white fabric covering the center seam. Now, I've heard builders used resin to fill in the gaps of the two halves but seeing it myself, I saw it had cracked. Front and back both have cracks. The one in the back goes from the floor all through to the window. The front one goes about half way up to the window. I was thinking to sand the surface to prep it anyway and now I see there's a bigger need. I'm now looking to add some fiberglass to help strengthen and bond the two halves together. Might be good to work on this before lifting the shell off the frame. With the two halves split, I wouldn't want to make it worse when there's less structure to the whole thing. I do have some fiberglass left over from a boat project that could do well with this project.

removed fittings:


harder to see the crack in the front but it's there:




The crack on the back is a bit more obvious:


I want to remove the old spare tire mounting bolts:


Crack continues through the floor:




A view of the top without the seam covering:


A look at the front workspace. Pulled up some of the fiberglass to get to one of the mounting bolts. The plywood was all mush.
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