1982 Scamp Restoration - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:38 PM   #1
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Name: Adam
Trailer: 1982 Scamp
North Carolina
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1982 Scamp Restoration

Hi all! New to the scene. Got a scamp. Super happy. I know there is plenty of restoration topics already but here's another! Got some pictures of most of it. I didn't take any pre paint / re seam pictures but it looked like any 30 yr old trailer would. Yellow tape peeling everywhere, mildew, etc. The cabinets are new paint too. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-23-2014, 05:40 PM   #2
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:48 PM   #3
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Next up...floor. Super rotten areas. Was gonna try and patch it then said screw it and went for it. Fiberglass two coats on the roadside of the plywood. Sanded all the rust of exposed frame and sprayed it with a rhino liner type spray. Plan on doing that to the whole frame when it in the air for the axle swap. Their is a frame all the way around the kitchen area floor so it made thing really easy. The back floor was in good shape minus a crack in the back so I glassed it top and bottom two coats! Then pergo pine floor. Two bundles at around 50 bucks total. Used the left over for other things later in the post.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #4
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Floor continued...Click image for larger version

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Old 01-23-2014, 06:09 PM   #5
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Next up kitchen. Corroded fixtures, trash, the sink was bouncing all over, stove the same. No ice box, no drawer for the silver ware spot. I took my remaining pergo on some plywood and made nice cabinet doors and a drawer. I am happy about the way it looks. I'm gonna stick with a couple of smallish coolers for the time being. The 3 ways aren't cheap. It made a huge storage spot under the stove too! I had a rocket pump laying around so I ran new vinyl tube to the fresh water tank in the back and hooked it up. Works perfect. Now the city water was a different story....I wanted something nice and high and remembered my buddy has this water filtration spigot in his house. 52 bucks at lowes. No hot or anything just on and off. It took a few trips to true value(4 to be exact) to get all the right fittings and such to make this thing work. I went for pex or pec tubing. No cracking,won't burst, high pressure stuff. It's worked perfect. Went for the original lighting fixture. I know I could've gone fancier but it doesn't bother me. 10 bucks and 5 minutes of labor man!Click image for larger version

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Old 01-30-2014, 09:34 AM   #6
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I just bought an 82 as well. Mine is in pretty good shape, but I will be tackling many of the same types of projects. While a PO did go through and do a bit of work, I tend to not like his "craftsmanship." He would put in the elbow grease but cut corners and cover with lots of caulk.

One thing that I am jealous of is your bunk rail. I have a feeling that my bunk rail was removed and I have no reference point as it was covered back over with ensolite. Could you measure down from the bottom of your window to the top of the bunk rail to give a point to begin exploring how to get that rail glassed back in? Can you also get a sense of how it is glassed in? Would I be better off with some other type of reinforcement there?
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:08 AM   #7
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I'm on it!
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:21 PM   #8
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Nice work on your restoration/remodeling, Adam! Have you had a chance to get out and camp in it yet?
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:24 PM   #9
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Have just a few more thing to do. Then the cold spell hit. I'm thinking st Augustine this weekend
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:28 PM   #10
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St. Augustine, Florida? Sounds lovely and warm.

Basking in 0 degrees here in Minnesota. Believe it or not, it's finally a warm spell this winter.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:32 PM   #11
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We are in charleston sc so this " winter storm Leon " was a really big deal. Schools still closed two days later. How far from the scamp place are you?
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:50 PM   #12
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I'm about 80 miles away. I've been to the factory three times. First time, right after I bought mine used to get new door seal, broken electrical cover replaced, and other minor items fixed. Second time, I had them intall a new axle because I pounded the he** out of the old, tired one on a trip down I-29 to Watertwon, SD. Third time, I had them install the front upper cabinet so I'd have some needed additional storage space. They're always very helpful.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:55 PM   #13
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Nice. The shipping down to here kills me. I went to order a bunch of little stuff and the shipping was more than the items combined!
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:44 PM   #14
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Fiberglass

Explain the two coats of fiberglass to the floor board. I'm not clear on how you did this. Can it be done to a newer one while still on the trailer? (working on it overhead) I would like to do mine now while it is intact.
What material or brand did you use?
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:31 PM   #15
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I went to Lowes and bought a quart of two part fiberglass resin. It comes in pint, quart,and gallon. 15 bucks. I mixed the proper amount , which I understand you get must get very close to the directions, used a spreader ( sold right next to the fiberglass, couple bucks, look like a spackle knife) and spread it on the ply evenly. I did the rest of the trailer bottom too from the ground. Use a big wide throw away paintbrush. You do have to move quick. It's sets in 10 or so minutes. Or buy a couple throwaways and do it in two or three batches.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-30-2014, 08:31 PM   #16
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That stuff
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:53 AM   #17
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Thanks, It sounds like work but I do want to protect the particle board. If the board could have been done prior to assembly is one thing, I wonder if I could be doing harm coating it now because if not coating it completely, water from driving in the rain could precipitate into areas between the frame and stay there indefinitely. I thought about spraying the floor from the bottom with that stuff they advertise on TV that seals out water in house gutters. You know they show it sprayed on a screen mounted in the bottom of a boat and no water gets in. Anybody have any suggestions?
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny in Ohio View Post
Thanks, It sounds like work but I do want to protect the particle board. If the board could have been done prior to assembly is one thing, I wonder if I could be doing harm coating it now because if not coating it completely, water from driving in the rain could precipitate into areas between the frame and stay there indefinitely. I thought about spraying the floor from the bottom with that stuff they advertise on TV that seals out water in house gutters. You know they show it sprayed on a screen mounted in the bottom of a boat and no water gets in. Anybody have any suggestions?

Don't use the spray stuff that comes in a can from TV I tried it on a section of my coal trailer and lets just say it does not work as well as they say it does!!
If you want a rubberized coating that is easy to apply with a brush and has water clean up try this, it is a white roof coating. I have it on my Tear drop roof (6 years now) and on the plywood roof of my daughters play house (4years).
Product Detail (Snow Roof)
I do think fiberglass resin would be best but this stuff worked very well for me.
Just my 2 cents!
Jason
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:50 PM   #19
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Thanks Jason.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:53 PM   #20
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Ok str 8781. The bunk rail deal is 3 inches from the bottom of the window. 4 inches wide at its widest point.
Just got all the solar stuff today and played with it a bit. Pics to come!
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