1986 Scamp 16' rebuild - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-03-2015, 12:00 PM   #15
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 1994 Scamp 16
Arkansas
Posts: 240
Great job! The pictures make me a little sleepy! Great place to take a nap!
Thanks for the pictures! it is great to see you restore a 1986 Scamp! You are doing a good job! Please keep the pictures coming!
Hope you get it completed pretty soon.

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Old 12-21-2015, 07:07 PM   #16
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Getting close to being finished- at least on the inside!
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:33 AM   #17
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 Std
Arizona
Posts: 4,995
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Looks very nice, JD. I know you "overbuilt" and went for rock solid construction. I'd be really curious what this weighs, complete, but unloaded. Any plans to take it to a scale?
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:58 AM   #18
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 1,015
Of course I don't think of it as overbuilt, but you are correct.
I plan to weigh it in the Cat scales down the road as soon as I get a few other things done.
I did jack each side with the little tongue weight scale, but I thing that it was showing light.
I will try that again soon to compare with the real scales.
I have been surprised that the tongue weight is fairly low, but my goal was to keep the major weight close to the axle centerline to keep the polar moment low as well.
I have also tried to keep the weight equal side to side.
The mini-split heat pump works well so far in the driveway, but that is not a true test. The heat side worked well at 32 degrees last week when we slept in it as a trial.
Still more to do as always, but getting closer.


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Old 02-20-2016, 05:22 PM   #19
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Today I accomplished a few things,
Epoxy varnished the collapsible table top between the twin beds.
Installed another AC outlet in the back under the night stand for the USB chargers and Connie's CPAP machine.
I also added a Wonder Fan (if that is right) in the front near the bath for obvious reasons.
I hooked up and tested the AC and DC power meters that will end up under the overhead cabinets.
Here is a picture of the two power meters so I can see how many watts everything takes AC or DC. The DC meter is wired to measure on battery power of converter (and Solar if and when). The AC will measure and input power since it is on the main feed input.



Here is the DC shunt that gives the current



The AC power meter has a Current transformer for the current input and the voltage is fed from the breaker box.

Now I can see just how many watts the refrigerator ( swing compressor ) uses each day. The current is about 3.67 A. and it seems to run about 25% of the time, but soon I will know for sure!
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:54 PM   #20
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Noe the night table/dinette is installed and the new mattresses with covers are fitted.
Here is the final front end with heat pump, water heater, emergency break away system and LP Tank.

Depending on the weight and it's distribution I may mount the HF inverter generator in a similar manner on the other side. I have thought about it, but I haven't measured and the tongue weight will make a difference.
I have also thought about feeding the hot water heater from smaller individual bottles, They can be filled from a 20 lb tank and perhaps they will be enough and the 35 lbs in the front can be eliminated or replaced with the generator.
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:20 PM   #21
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 1,015
I just got everything checked out and hooked up for the test drive.
Drove around the neighborhood and setup the brake controller and then did the "LOOP"
about 5 miles on 50 Mph roads and then 10 miles on the interstate.






Now to get the door and drawer latches installed and get it weighed.
Also a set of airbags are aimed at the rear of the VW.

Not to mention a lot of sanding, priming and painting as well.

For the loop the mileage was about 25 MPG.
Now to get everything ready for Green Eggs and Ham up north of here about 160 miles.
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:11 PM   #22
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Name: Casey
Trailer: Escape
FT Travel
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Looks incredible! Congrats on 25mpg.

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Old 03-05-2016, 10:54 AM   #23
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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After $10.50 scale charges (reasonable I say) at the truck stop
the trailer weighs: 2460 lbs
the car weighs : 3480
Total : 5940
Since I had the axle built with a 3000 lb rating that leaves 540 lbs for payload.
Perhaps a little more since there was a 200 lb tongue weight.
Coupled to the JSW the trailer would have 2260 on the axle and the JSW 3680 lbs.
This was with full fuel no driver.
Now to calculate where the payload has to go.
UK suggestions are for the trailer to be less than 80% of the Gross vehicle weight of 4432 lbs. - 3680 = 752 lbs for the JSW left. (with full fuel)
4432 X 0.80 = 3545 lbs and with the UK rating of 1500 KG (3300 lbs) it looks like in the UK I would be OK. (I know, I know - This is not the UK.)
The trailer tows great and for the 50 miles I towed I averaged about 25 mpg.
The stability is very good and the brake setup works good too.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:05 AM   #24
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 1,015
I just got my AirLift compressor and I am getting ready for the installation in my VW.
I plan to install the unit in the left rear compartment where I have been storing the spare oil bottle.
Access by opening the compartment and running the unit to level the rig.
This is mostly to keep the headlights correct as well as the suspension geometry.
Tests have shown that air lifts have about 1/2 the benefits of a WDH.
We shall see.


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Old 03-11-2016, 12:34 PM   #25
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,112
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Noe the night table/dinette is installed and the new mattresses with covers are fitted.
Here is the final front end with heat pump, water heater, emergency break away system and LP Tank.

Depending on the weight and it's distribution I may mount the HF inverter generator in a similar manner on the other side. I have thought about it, but I haven't measured and the tongue weight will make a difference.
I have also thought about feeding the hot water heater from smaller individual bottles, They can be filled from a 20 lb tank and perhaps they will be enough and the 35 lbs in the front can be eliminated or replaced with the generator.
I would keep the 20 lb bottle if it were me, especially for showering. We used ours in the fall for a couple of showers and I think the small bottles wouldn't last very long...I absolutely love what you have done with the inside of your...I am converting our dinette/bed into a permanent bed, it just wasn't working for us...lots of things to finish up and perfect from the project we started last year but hopefully I will be done before June...
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:48 AM   #26
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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JD, I was studying some of your mods again pertaining to your cabinets and bathroom. I am working on our cabinets and was wondering how you attached the bottoms of the upper cabinets to the face frames and what thickness and type of wood you choose. Right now I have my face frames attached with angle brackets to 1x2s underneath that support the 1/4" plywood. The cabinets are attached at the top and side walls to glassed 1x2 tabs using angle brackets also. It is fictional but does not look neat from under the bottom but you can't see it from the front but I don't like it, it is bothering me. So I am thinking of redoing it and using dowels to attach the face frames directly to the bottom shelf/plywood so there is a nice corner flush fit at the bottom but may have to go with a thicker bottom shelf. Any thoughts there?

As far as the bathroom walls how did you construct them? I am considering changing our bath (utility tub shower stall) to a wet bath and loose the shower curtain. But I am concerned about the weight although I am about to put on a new 2200 lb axle to replace the original 1200 lb one. Right now our bath consists of a 3/4 inch plywood side wall and front wall with some 1x2s for the corner braces and the frame for the accordion door. The front wall is screwed to the front upper floor and to two glassed tabs inside the right of the Boler door. I thought about maybe going with a lighter/thinner wood but don't want any warping/bowing issues of the walls so I was wondering how you handled this issue?
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:39 PM   #27
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 1,015
On my upper cabinets I bought 12" vertical cabinets and cut them to fit.
The top and the back are fastened to the shell with glue and screws through the fiberglass.
I have added triangular blocks to reinforce the back where I glued a furring strip to the bottom
I reglued the insides and outsides of the cabinets for greater strength.
The oak cabinets serve to reinforce the shell when glued directly to the fiberglass and screwed in place as well.
The 12" deep cabinet fronts really stiffen the roof
Where I made bulkheads I used 1/2" exterior plywood and first fitted a cardboard sheet to match the curvature of the shell.
In all places where I added interior structure I cut away the ensolite and used a small wire wheel to clean the fiberglass and either epoxied in the bulkhead or bedded it in a polyurethane glue/sealant.
The bulkheads were also screwed in place through the fiberglass with the washers previously shown in my posts.
For the bulkhead across the front I epoxy fiber glassed strips in the junction on the hidden side.
For the bulkhead next to the door I used 3/4" exterior plywood since most of the panel was cut away for the cabinet door openings,
Basically I made patterns out of cardboard and then fitted, glued, and screwed.

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