I had stripped out the wall original material because it was turning to dust. This left me with raw closed cell foam on the walls. When this was all stripped out I found a water issue with my fantastic fan.
So I stripped it all down to raw foam beyond my present state. This allowed me to see the fantastic fan had definitely been leaking 'again'. The screws were rotted completely off due to water. So I pulled it out as well and realized that the previous owner had not repaired the
fiberglass well when he installed the fantastic fan. (more about this mount later).
I realized the entire roof had become more soft than it should be and would bow in around the fan and create a water pool. So This was a time for me to change that. I placed a piece of plywood with 2x4 supports to recreate the proper flow of the rounded roof. I also chose to move the spacer of the fantastic fan to the outside of the trailer to give a nicer interior look and feel. This is when I realized the previous owner mounted a flat 15" fan onto a rounded roof and just forced the trailer to be flat. I created a new spacer that followed the curve of the roof. I also installed a 3/8" plywood support along the center of the roof outside, I mounted this with rivets. I then used fiberglas to cover and support the entire structure. Thus ensuring it would be waterproof. This roof repair went amazingly well once I knew the problems.
I used a urethane automotive product to seal all the lines in the foam. This product seen in the pictures was amazing to work with and went on easy and worked better than I had thought it would. Time consuming but easy. I used a caulking gun to put it on then a plastic putty knife 4" to spread it smooth.
The next was using Raptor Liner to spray over the foam inside to give a good wall material. I on suggestion, from the place I got the spray, roughed up the foam with sand paper. Hindsight being 20/20 DO NOT do this step. Keep it smooth and sealed. It would have worked faster and better that way. I ended up using more kits and actually priming the foam to seal it better. Then respray over the primer. I would suggest just leaving the foam clean it, prime it, then spray over the primer.
I used the Raptor liner to also do the below the closet, below the front table, front of the now permanent bed, and
fridge door.
The Raptor liner worked out very well in the end.
I also pained the cupboards and backsplash white, re-painted the window frames.
Re-varathaned the table and side storage. Made the tops like glass.
I bought the trailer with a permanent bed and front table set up. The bed frame was starting to be quite unstable, so upon investigation found the 1x1's that it was built from were rotting and cracking from age. I chose to rebuild the bed area with a larger access to storage under the bed. I also decided to build in a porta potty hide away hole for travel. It goes in the little space and fits nicely out of the way. When camping I remove the panel that secures it for travel. It is a nice way to keep it handy but keep it secure for travel.
The last thing I did for the year was put rivnuts for the front window cover. It always would sag every few seasons and I would struggle to get it sitting right. Upon investigation I found that the wood that heald it was stripped out. The rivnuts solved this and makes it much more secure.
Minor things found were wiring from previous owner not grounded. Simple ground wire installation fixed this.
This summer I plan to change the
tail lights over to LED, hook up the installed center brake
light (I installed it so the wires were behind the foam). I need to replace the center band outside which looks like an easy job. Then if time permits I plan to Raptor guard the lower section of the trailer.
If you see anything in the photos you want to know about ask me. It was a time consuming but worth while project.
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