1993 Scamp 16' repair and remodel - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-07-2015, 07:43 AM   #29
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Well, it turns out that the search function is your friend, as recommended by so many other forum members because I was able to find some very good information regarding rivets. I'll be working through those with caps and replacing any that look like they're leaking.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:47 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
How do you know the shell is sagging? If all the original cabinetry is still riveted in place and the twisty metal supports are still supporting the upper kitchen cabinets, sag should be minimal.

Unless there is a reason to remove all the cabinets, replacing loose or broken rivets is best done one at a time using the original holes.

The only reason I can think of to make all-new rivet holes and seal the old ones is because they have been loose for a while and the holes have become enlarged or distorted. And even then, I'd investigate using slightly larger diameter rivets before I'd make all new holes.
Jon, someone removed the metal support brackets from the kitchen cabinet and then added some home made cabinets to the dinette area to complicate the roof load. I've already removed the home made cabinets because they were press wood and delaminating so the hinges were letting go. I believe that these rivets were leaking as well as are some of the other acorn nuts on the major closet cabinets so rivets will be replaced as well.


We can tell the walls are sagging because of the widening gap between the front bench seat and the door frame and the door is sagging in the opening, so we'll be replacing the worn out hinges after we lift the sagging roof line and add a small support in the doorway hinge side of the door.
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:07 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
Jon, someone removed the metal support brackets from the kitchen cabinet and then added some home made cabinets to the dinette area to complicate the roof load. I've already removed the home made cabinets because they were press wood and delaminating so the hinges were letting go. I believe that these rivets were leaking as well as are some of the other acorn nuts on the major closet cabinets so rivets will be replaced as well.


We can tell the walls are sagging because of the widening gap between the front bench seat and the door frame and the door is sagging in the opening, so we'll be replacing the worn out hinges after we lift the sagging roof line and add a small support in the doorway hinge side of the door.

I would replace the twisty brackets. If necessary, a piece of plywood to spread the load and a 2x4 post will allow you apply gentle pressure to raise the roof. You could post a request for a forum member with the same layout to measure the factory distance between upper and lower cabinets.

Replacing loose and leaking rivets is good.

The shell attachment to the frame at the front corner of the door is a weak spot. Mine has a metal brace to strengthen that area. I think I recall reading that not all builds had that reinforcement. I could take a picture if you think it might help.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:12 AM   #32
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hinge side metal roof support

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I would replace the twisty brackets. If necessary, a piece of plywood to spread the load and a 2x4 post will allow you apply gentle pressure to raise the roof. You could post a request for a forum member with the same layout to measure the factory distance between upper and lower cabinets.

Replacing loose and leaking rivets is good.

The shell attachment to the frame at the front corner of the door is a weak spot. Mine has a metal brace to strengthen that area. I think I recall reading that not all builds had that reinforcement. I could take a picture if you think it might help.
Jon, we have the metal support but it seems somewhat less than effective because it's not from floor to ceiling and the gap between the sofa and the wall has spread to prolly more than 1/2". I'm thinking of adding a closet there to incorporate a stronger support that will do double duty as the closet wall with access doors from the window side of the sofa.

The previous owner had installed overhead storage over the dinette that was made from press wood and was delaminating so we've removed that storage space and are finding a need for the lost storage. By combining our two needs, roof support & additional storage, we'll achieve both objectives. I'm wondering what material would be best for the roof support? Plywood or solid oak...hummm...any recommendations?
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:41 AM   #33
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Completed the sale transfer and registration of our "new to us" Scamp today and the clerk allowed me to change the stated year on the title to 1991 from 1993. The VIN shows the production year of 1991 according to Scamp decoding so...glad to have that completed.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:31 PM   #34
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I looked again at the pictures you posted. The cabinets over the dinette appear to be factory original. They were optional, and Scamp did use manufactured wood for those cabinets until recently. The PO painted over them, of course.

What I am not seeing in your pictures are the original cabinets over the sink and stove counter. Are they there and I am missing them? Both sides should have fiberglass upper cabinets with a twisty metal brace on the dinette end, similar to this photo of my 13' Scamp:
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You can see it even better in the second image in member Carol H's registry (you can also see the optional cabinets over the dinette).

Assuming they're gone, you could try to snag replacements from someone doing a gut-and-rebuild, but unless they're pretty close, shipping will probably be prohibitive. If you're handy with wood, you could build replacements out of plywood and incorporate some kind of post going down to the lower cabinet. There are a couple of different ways to attach them to the shell. You can do as Scamp does in their deluxe models: stainless steel screws from the outside with snap caps. Or you can do as some other manufacturers do: epoxy wood tabs to the inside of the fiberglass shell and screw into that from the inside.

I assume the gap you're talking about is between the curbside of the front sofa and the wall beside the door, right? I'd be interested to see a picture of that. A gap there is more likely related either to issues with the subfloor, the frame, or the shell attachment in the front curbside corner (especially since the closet next to the door appears to be present and solidly attached? to the shell).

I would not proceed with any interior modifications until you have had the frame thoroughly checked out. There's a lot that isn't original there. It makes me wonder whether the A-frame was damaged (popped off the ball??) and rebuilt. If that's the case, the whole front of the frame may be tweaked.
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:20 PM   #35
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Jon, we already have an appointment to have the frame inspected on the 19th of this month. If that seems good, we'll take measurements for a new Flexiride Axle.


If we manage to clear both of those hurdles, then we'll be looking at lifting the sagging roof, replacing any rotted flooring (like that under the A/C in the closet) and installing a couch closet/door hinge brace. When we have the furniture out I'll be looking at replacing all the wiring and plumbing.


I'm not sure what you might be seeing that isn't original. There are overhead cabinets on both sides of the cabin; over the sink as well as the range/oven. The roof support next to the sink was there because you can see the mounting holes that were used before someone removed the bracket.


It's a process, but first we have to learn what we don't know.
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:51 PM   #36
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...I'm not sure what you might be seeing that isn't original. There are overhead cabinets on both sides of the cabin; over the sink as well as the range/oven. The roof support next to the sink was there because you can see the mounting holes that were used before someone removed the bracket...
I'm glad to hear both of the upper cabinets are there. I couldn't see them in the pictures, but since the color scheme is white-on-white, they must have blended into the walls. In that case, you can order new twisty metal supports from Scamp and install them. The location of the mounting holes may indicate whether you need to raise the roof to restore the original counter-to-cabinet distance, but if not, Scamp might be able to tell you when you call to place the order.

What doesn't look original to me is the tongue. Yours drops down at the end where the coupler is, while the original is flat, and there is some kind of reinforcing truss that runs underneath.

Just caught your signature… If an adventurous Took were to take up RVing, I suspect he'd feel right at home in a Scamp…
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:31 PM   #37
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The road goes on and on, down from the door where it began...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I'm glad to hear both of the upper cabinets are there. I couldn't see them in the pictures, but since the color scheme is white-on-white, they must have blended into the walls. In that case, you can order new twisty metal supports from Scamp and install them. The location of the mounting holes may indicate whether you need to raise the roof to restore the original shape, but if not, Scamp might be able to tell you when you call to place the order.

What doesn't look original to me is the tongue. Yours drops down at the end where the coupler is, while the original is flat, and there is some kind of reinforcing truss that runs underneath.

Just caught your signature… If an adventurous Took were to take up RVing, I suspect he'd feel right at home in a Scamp…
Jon, the adventurous spirit of a wandering hobbit lives in all those who dwell in tiny eggs. Obviously, we share of love of Tolkien. Most excellent!
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:24 AM   #38
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Something about bed, bath, and supper at close of day... Isn't that why we have our rolling hobbit-holes?
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:39 PM   #39
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bad news with good news

Well, it feels like summer here in Kentucky when the temperature in December reaches almost 70' on December 13th. That's crazy! Also, it's virtually impossible to stay inside so we decided that it was time to do some more work on what we have affectionately named, "The Skank." No really, she's pretty nasty and today we decided to see how bad she really is...I knew that the previous owners had installed a house AC unit in the closet at some point. I also knew that it hadn't been properly installed to allow for condensate to drain properly.

When I drove to pick her up from Michigan, it was only 28' and there was about four inches of snow on the ground so I gave it the best inspection that I knew how. Unfortunately, I missed the rotted floor under the AC unit as well as a few other things like the stress cracks behind the spare tire.

So, I knew that we were in trouble when I made it back to Kentucky and had a better, and warmer, opportunity to crawl around and really look at what kind of trouble I had purchased for us. (Laura has been less the enamoured with me at times since we've begun the demolition phase. She may never let me solo to pick out anything, ever, again.)

So, today we decided to pull the AC unit and really evaluate the damage...you can clearly see the holes rotted through the what I thought was the floor but turns out to be the bottom of the closet.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:44 PM   #40
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the good news is in what you don't see in the 1st picture

In order to removed the AC unit, we removed the outside grill to discover that the installation included building a frame from 2X4's to support the AC unit. Unfortunately, who ever built the support frame was not very,...um...handy?

I'm trying to be nice here because I'm thinking of all kinds of off-color words that could describe the sloppy work that included installation of the support frame that is almost a full inch too deep for the space available. What this means is...(can you hear the drum roll?)...that the outter wall has been "forced" away from the back side of the closet causing several of the original construction rivets to let go or "pop," seen here...

This picture is goofy because of the angle that I shot the image but you can clearly see the huge gap immediately adjacent to the 2X4 in the middle bottom of the image where the curve of the body is deeply shadowed in black.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:50 PM   #41
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I'm feeling very encouraged by this development

I think it will be much simpler to lift the sagging roof our our egg now because there is obviously some engineering problems causing our walls to bow out and by removing the poorly constructed AC mounting frame we will be in a very good position to correct the forced sag of the walls. Easy peasy...

I feel like this is a major coup for The Skank and carries a long way toward dramatically improving her chances for a complete restoration. I'm pretty excited by this simple development. Who knows, she may even earn a new name.

Whooohoooo!
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:38 AM   #42
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It wouldn't be easy to pop rivets and get that much deflection during installation. Makes me wonder whether poor design caused things to shift and pop apart under tow. Or maybe it was already separating when the AC was added. Who knows?

In any case, you're on the path to recovery. Getting that closet re-installed tightly should go a long way to solving your door fit issues (that and a hinge rebuild kit from Ian).

Best wishes!
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