1998 Wide Body Burro ground up rebuild - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-06-2013, 09:15 AM   #29
Junior Member
 
Name: Craig
Trailer: 1999 Burro
Kansas
Posts: 4
Registry
Sorry Jim, I've been having some issues trying to post. Am trying a different browser now. My Burro is a 17 foot wide body, and the floor is indeed 5/8" plywood. With glass the final thickness is 3/4, a bit more at the seams. Just as you hope to thicken your floor from 1/2 to 5/8, I hope to increase to 3/4. I have a stick of 3/4 ply I wrapped with duct tape (to simulate a generous glass thickness. Under my door is okay, snug but smooth. Where I anticipate some tightness is at the center seams where the inner shell meets the outer. Will see when I get to that point. You seem to be moving faster on your project. I still have my frame free- wheeling in the wheel wells. One of these days I'm going to get tired of barking my shins on it and pull it out. (sooner than later my sore legs hope!) When I do I will be sure to give those welds a very close inspection. You frame appears to have been jack-knifed. Either that or your Burro was drug over some roads better suited for Jeep comercials than camping! Best of luck.

I agree with the use of epoxy and I think the joint between floor and outer shell would only benefit from a heavier cloth weight. Since all the outer shell weight rests on this corner I think I'll add some cleats to this corner
as well.

Adding some steel under the door seems like a good idea. Not only to add support to an obvious weak area but also to attach the step to.

Thanks Charlie, for the link about the truck bed liner paint. I'm wondering since it's been a while how it's holding up on the underside?

Finally, before I see if this will post, I'll try to attach a couple of "where fools rush in" Pix.
Attached Thumbnails
floor n.jpg   floor s.jpg  

__________________

__________________
CraigS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 09:32 AM   #30
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
I got my frame back from the welder and took it over to have it sand blasted. Now I have it in the garage and I pulled the axle out. I wiped off the trailer and will be doing POR-15. My camera has a dead battery so I can't picture of it before the POR-15.

One thing I notice is the axle is a Henshcel 2000 Dyna Flex with electric brakes. Anyone know what OEM is on a 1998 14' WB? I was pretty sure it wasn't henschel.

I would like to know if the axle was changed at one point and about when. I did a little research and found that at some point Henschel change the name of their torsion axle from Dyna Torque to Dyna flex. This is a Dynaflex so, if I could find out when they changed the name I would have a date that would tell me the oldest the axle could be. I have the serial number and will send it to Henshcel on Monday and see if they can tell me a mfg date. Mostly curiosity. The axle seems to be in great shape.
Another thing I found out is Illinois, and I guess most states, require a break away switch on all trailer with electric brakes. This one doesn't have one so I will have to add it.
Well back to cutting out the last of the floor. Not much left. The area by the door is giving me a real challenge. I am taking a small piece of 5/8 and 3/4 with me to test in the space. I suspect part of the problem is how the interior mold will sit on the floor. By putting in a thicker floor, that will change how the interior mold meets the floor.
__________________

__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #31
Senior Member
 
jen b's Avatar
 
Name: jen
Trailer: 1980 13 ft. burro
Pennsylvania
Posts: 848
Registry
Another Burro owner looking forward to seeing this transformation!

When we considered the floor of my trailer (an '80), we thought about how the original floor is sandwiched around the edges by the inner and outer hulls, then kind of shrugged and said "eh!" and just bolted a new plywood floor underneath the old one, attached with stainless steel bolts instead of the rusty drywall screws they appeared to used at the factory, and coated it with truck bed liner. It's holding up well as far as I can tell.
__________________
jen b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 08:16 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Green Frog's Avatar
 
Name: Charlie
Trailer: '83 Burro
Virginia
Posts: 331
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
Sorry Jim, I've been having some issues trying to post. Am trying a different browser now. My Burro is a 17 foot wide body, and the floor is indeed 5/8" plywood. With glass the final thickness is 3/4, a bit more at the seams. Just as you hope to thicken your floor from 1/2 to 5/8, I hope to increase to 3/4. I have a stick of 3/4 ply I wrapped with duct tape (to simulate a generous glass thickness. Under my door is okay, snug but smooth. Where I anticipate some tightness is at the center seams where the inner shell meets the outer. Will see when I get to that point. You seem to be moving faster on your project. I still have my frame free- wheeling in the wheel wells. One of these days I'm going to get tired of barking my shins on it and pull it out. (sooner than later my sore legs hope!) When I do I will be sure to give those welds a very close inspection. You frame appears to have been jack-knifed. Either that or your Burro was drug over some roads better suited for Jeep comercials than camping! Best of luck.

I agree with the use of epoxy and I think the joint between floor and outer shell would only benefit from a heavier cloth weight. Since all the outer shell weight rests on this corner I think I'll add some cleats to this corner
as well.

Adding some steel under the door seems like a good idea. Not only to add support to an obvious weak area but also to attach the step to.

Thanks Charlie, for the link about the truck bed liner paint. I'm wondering since it's been a while how it's holding up on the underside?

Finally, before I see if this will post, I'll try to attach a couple of "where fools rush in" Pix.
My Burro has been mine for just a little over a year and a half now, and has spent about half or more of that time sitting on damp ground. It's only been driven about 3000 or so miles in that time, so road wear probably isn't a factor. Bottom line, even though I haven't checked real closely, it looks dirty of course, but otherwise I can't see that there has been any change at all on the underside through all of that. Meanwhile, the inside looks like the day I got it... I put a throw rug or two out every now and then, but haven't seen the need to actually "cover" the floor... that waterproof covering shrugs off the effect of muddy boots, wet clothes, etc.

Froggie
__________________
Green Frog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 10:34 PM   #33
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
I have been considering using a truck liner on mine. What brand did you use? There are quite a few DIY liners. I have been giving serious consideration to Monstaliner. I looked at Raptor, Herculiner, Duplicolor, and Rusoleum as well but the Monstaliner seemed better suited.

I would be interested in others experience with bed liner.

I have my trailer all POR-15. Should have listen to Donna better. I was painting away and felt a few drops on my face but I was on my back painting the underside and figured I would get it when I got done. Bad decision!
Nothing, I mean nothing took it off. So now I will be limiting my shopping experiences until it wears off. I must have bumped my head also because my wife ways it looks like one of those spray hair covers for my male pattern bald spot. Too late to worry now. At she got a good laugh. She is still laughing. She must not know I can hear her.

If I were to do it again I would do a silver first coat and a black second coat. Doing two coats in black is really had to see whats painted and whats not. It looks really good. I will post some pics tomorrow.
__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 06:12 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Jim, I have no personal experience with any DIY truck liner, but have heard good things about Grizzy Grip (love the color choices) and followed Brad and Jenny's rebuild on their Boler. They used Durabak: Total Boler Restoration

To remove (or I should say HELP to remove) the POR-15 on your body, try a really good hand lotion, remember water makes POR-15 harder
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 10:30 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
rabbit's Avatar
 
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
It's baa-aack! The Burro Trailer LLC site that is. Nice to know about that "collection site" mentioned earlier.

jack
__________________
rabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2013, 04:47 PM   #36
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
Frame finished

Here is an update on my frame. I have also finished cutting out my floor but will post that in another reply. I used two coats of POR-15 on the frame. It is more a coating than a paint and feels like it. Unfortunately the area I am working in is confined and I can't get very far back to get a good picture of the whole frame. I also have to heat it with a propane heater and it blew some dust around. However, the only parts that will get another coating is the areas exposed to sunlight and they will get a light sanding before I apply the Chassis coat. That should make it smooth to he touch. All toll I used a quart of POR-15 top and bottom, 2 coats.

The changes I made include a 2x3x.125 tube just forward of the angle iron the rear 2" receiver is attached to. My angle iron was severely cracked. I suspect from putting a cargo hauler on the back. I would encourage anyone using one of the cargo basket, in their rear receiver to look underneath to see if the angle is cracking.
I also put steel plate on the outside of the frame from just behind the rear tire to the new tube I put in. It had cracked on one side and I wanted to prevent a recurrence. I also suspect the cargo hauler or using the trailer while attached to the TV and not putting down the rear stabilizers.
I added stringers between the cross members to give me 14" on center. This will make a solid floor. I added front stabilizer and support for the entry door.
One of the most significant changes I made was a 2x4x.125 tube from the front of the A near the hitch to the second cross member. I put a 2x4 tube along side of the second cross member. This formed an "I" with the new center beam. In addition I added 2x4x.125 tubing to the inside of the frame at the point it bends to form the parallel sides. This area had been repaired by several po and I really wanted to eliminate any chance of future issues. This area also received steel plate on the outside of the frame, at the bend. I added loops to attach safety chains. Finally, One of the PO had taken out the front stabilizer and put a side swing one on. He had welded angle over the hole to strap a battery down on the front. I wanted to go back to a front stabilizer crank so I cut off the angles and put a new crank stabilizer in the front. I have other plans for the battery.
Sorry, the picts are not very high contrast with the gloss POR-15 on it and it may be hard to see some things.
I also, put new brakes in and put por-15 on the axle before putting it back in. I was fortunate the local O'Reilly auto parts can turn 7" drums. So, the brakes got a full rebuild. I replaced all the axle bolts with grade 8 and all stabilizers were installed using SS. So my frame is finished.

Donna, thanks for the tip on the Grizzle grip. I am seriously considering using it as a final coat on the exterior bottom of the floor.
Attached Thumbnails
P1080668 (Small).JPG   P1080666 (Small).JPG  

P1020630 (Small).JPG   P1020635 (Small).JPG  

P1020639 (Small).JPG  
__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2013, 06:43 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Steve_N_Janna's Avatar
 
Name: Steve and Janna
Trailer: '02 Scamp 13
North Carolina
Posts: 184
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetalkington View Post
POR-15... Nothing, I mean nothing took it off.
Forgive me for laughing! I used POR 15 when I rehab'ed a 1965 Serro Scotty frame. I swear, it took two weeks for the stuff to wear off my hands. The good news though - four years later the frame looks great. This stuff really works.

Here's an alternative idea to truck bed liner. I coated the galvanized steel wheel wells on that Scotty with roofing tar - just lathered it on with a broad putty knife. It took about two weeks to cure to a non-tacky finish - but 4 years later it is still there. I may use the same stuff on the underside of my current Scamp project to seal the joints where the floor sits on the frame.

I'm beginning to think that with a little thought these FG trailers can be made virtually impervious to moisture. I suppose if they came that way from the factory - given the amount of tedious labor & the required higher cost materials - it would bump their sale price beyond what the market would bear.
__________________
Steve_N_Janna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 12:00 PM   #38
Junior Member
 
Name: Craig
Trailer: 1999 Burro
Kansas
Posts: 4
Registry
It works for me!

Here's a quick little tool alteration I made to help chew out the existing Burro floor from the outer shell. I took a 5" section of large dowel (actually closet clothes rod) and screwed it to the base of an laminate trimmer. This still limits the depth of cut but lets me angle the trimmer into the corner between the floor and shell. Trimming this close should allow me to get a 3/4" plywood floor in with the only tight areas being where the inner shell meets the outer. It may be a bit of a "red-neck tool solution, but it works for me. I included a pic of the flange I cut the floor from under the refrigerator.

Craig
Attached Thumbnails
lam trimmer.JPG   Trimmed flange.JPG  

__________________
CraigS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2013, 03:44 PM   #39
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
Nice job Craig. I ended up using a vibrating saw I have from Home Depot. It worked well and I have the same style lip you have. You can see it in the pics I posted. I fitted a 5/8 and a 3/4 board to see where my problems for either might be. I found the 3/4 fit every where but at the wheel well, where the well met the side of the trailer. It would barely go in and I think when I add FG cloth and Epoxy it won't work. I put the 5/8 in and it fit every where. I have decide to use the 5/8-5 ply BCX as my new floor. I think the fit will be easier to work with. I also decided to go with West Systems for my epoxy. I know there are less expensive ones but 3 boat builders I know all use it. What I don't know they do and was offered help on getting the wood coated and fitted.

I finally have my floor cut out and the bottom lip cleaned up enough to begin the construction of the new floor. The sad thing is that even after a month indoors much of the floor was still soggy and wet.

I have spent the last week trying to create a cardboard template for my floor. I have nothing to go buy except the shell itself and getting the curves right, turned out to be much harder than I thought. My first mistake was think they were symmetrical and they are close but not quite. In addition to that when I measured the trailer I found it 61.5 inches wide and the shell had flexed, once the floor was out, and it was only 58 inches wide. I had to brace the interior with cargo rods and gradually push the wheel wells and side of the shell out to the 61.5. I tried to do it all at once and it wouldn't go so over about 3 days I have been able to get to width back to where it should be.

In order to be sure things are where they should be I ran a nylon string down the center of the shell, from rear seam to front seam and used it as a reference line. The shell had flexed quite a bit. My right wheel well had twisted almost 3/4 of an inch from front to back. Plus my door frame moved out an inch on one side. Should I ever find myself in the situation of taking a floor out of a Burro I will begin blocking and support BEFORE I take it off the trailer. Good ol' hind site.

After much blocking, pulling, and pushing I believe I have the shell back to the specs it was in before I started.

One thing is no one can accuse the burro builders of using a square. I also think the owners have stock in 3M or whoever makes scotch locks. They are/were everywhere. They are one of my least favorite connectors. In the process of wrapping up the floor I finished pulling out all the remaining wiring. Here are some pics of just before I cut the last 2 pieces out of the trailer, the cleaned off lip and the wiring mess in this trailer. I am not sure if the wiring is factory or after market.

I will get some picture of all the blocking and supporting I did to get the shell back into shape, tomorrow. I should have the card board template wrapped up then.
I know this sounds like a PITA, but I am actually having fun with the rebuild. The flexing and templates for the floor threw me a curve but I think I see light.
Attached Thumbnails
2012-12-29_14-22-21_912 (Small).jpg   2012-12-29_14-22-00_376 (Small).jpg  

2012-12-29_16-47-05_524 (Small).jpg   PC300625 (Small).JPG  

PC300624 (Small).JPG   PC300621 (Small).JPG  

__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2013, 08:30 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
jen b's Avatar
 
Name: jen
Trailer: 1980 13 ft. burro
Pennsylvania
Posts: 848
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetalkington View Post
I have spent the last week trying to create a cardboard template for my floor. I have nothing to go buy except the shell itself and getting the curves right, turned out to be much harder than I thought. My first mistake was think they were symmetrical and they are close but not quite.

*******

One thing is no one can accuse the burro builders of using a square.

HAAAAhahahaha, how many times in the past two seasons of Burro Winter Makeover have I wished I had a time machine, so I could travel back to, what, 1979 or so and show the Burro factory guys what a measuring tape looks like. Oh, and to encourage them to drink a little less on the job. I'm still convinced my trailer was assembled by angry drunks.
__________________
jen b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 09:56 AM   #41
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
LOL. I worked for an international company in IT for a dozen years. We had a team meeting of all the IT people in the company. I remember the German guys complaining that when Haldex, our parent company, took them over they ordered all the wine dispensing machines out of the company. Evidently in Germany, at the time,(2003) you were allowed to drink a certain amount of wine at break and lunch. So, they had wine dispensing machines. Of course the rest of us were floored they even had them. Even the French didn't do that.

I wonder if the Burro people hail from Germany and never got rid of the wine machines.

Well, I hope to finish my templates today.
__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2013, 04:28 PM   #42
Member
 
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14" Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 34
I finished my templates and cut my floor out. I decided to use 5/8 bcx plywood as I didn't see the need for marine grade with it being a trailer with plenty of support.

Here are some pictures of the support system I had to use to get the shell back to fitting on the trailer at 61.5 inches. I found that applying pressure over several days allowed me to get as much movement as I needed.

The left/drivers side is straight and the right side needed to be twisted and moved out almost 2 inches. That is why I have braces to the wall on the outside. I found if I just tried to spread the shell it bowed out both sides.
The interior spreaders are cargo supports for the back of my truck. They were the only things long enough to do the job.

One of the concerns I had is using 1/8 cardboard and then using the 5/8 plywood. The cardboard will slip into places the plywood would not due the thickness. I found this did happen and had to cut my plywood a little under a 1/4 " to clear some of the fiberglass I couldn't reach. I rabbit cut the mating edges of the plywood so they have a ship lap and will use Titebond III between them.
I dry fitted the new floor and everything fits well. I attached pics of the fit. Where their are any gaps along the edge I plan to use thickened epoxy and fill them in. Plus any place the shell comes in contact with the frame I will reinforce, on the inside.

Fiberglass and barrier coating the plywood is next. I am waiting on my fiberglass to arrive. I went with 6 oz on the plywood and 17 oz around the perimeter where the shell meets the floor and wheel wells, inside and out.
Attached Thumbnails
2013-01-21_14-12-09_618 (Small).jpg   P1250678 (Small).JPG  

P1250679 (Small).JPG   P1250677 (Small).JPG  

P1280681 (Small).JPG   P1280683 (Small).JPG  

__________________

__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
jetalkington is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
burro


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WANTED - *** Wide Body Burro *** steve7950 Wanted: Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailers 2 08-28-2010 09:30 PM
1998 Burro 17 foot Wide Body For Sale Mwilliams Classified Archives 10 11-19-2009 09:55 PM
1998 17' Burro Wide Body - For Sale Mwilliams Classified Archives 3 03-09-2009 06:28 AM
Looking for 17' Burro wide body Penney H. & Mike E. Wanted: Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailers 4 08-17-2007 05:32 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.