2011 Scamp 16 Standard Thermostat - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-17-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
Senior Member
Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Posts: 1,520
My particular hook-up was not that difficult. Coleman NOW makes a retrofitted unit that converts EVERYTHING on their roof units to digital and the thermostat fully controls the unit instead of just totally cutting the unit off/on like mine does. But mine still works WONDERFULLY.

They have the digital thermostats like we're speaking of that will automatically "switch over" when the temperature changes. This wouldnt work with my set up but it would with the newer aforementioned Coleman full-digital system. In our 13', heat/cold can happen so quickly when returning from an excursion while Scamping that we dont leave ours running when we leave the campground.

THERMOSTATS- Food for thought
Here's the quote I'm basing the following thoughts on, ".....about 5 minutes to turn that camper into a sauna when the furnace is on so I end up having to manually turn it on and off anyway."

This is a VERY common problem that I've noticed with others ever since I've been FG'ing. It also happened with us in our 13' even with the Heat unit on our Coleman A/C. It's either TOO warm or gets TOO cool before it kicks on again and this makes for a VERY uncomfortable sleeping night-- at least for me. (But this thermostat is on the unit on the ceiling)

When I first installed my Hunter digital, I located it at the end of the cabinet where all the other thermostats (Scamp furnaces) are mounted. It did the SAME thing. I was stunned! The temp was climbing fast in the Scamp (testing heat unit) and I could prove this by a special digital temp gauge I had laying out in the middle of the cushions. I KNEW my Hunter was working but NOT working....why???? Finally, after studying on it... I decided to remove the Hunter (it snaps off the base) and laid it on the cushions. PRESTO!!! Its temperature readings immediately started changing! Then it hit me, there's no air circulating through the thermostat where it was (and MANY thermos are) located at the end of the kitchen cabinet!!
To bring this story to a landing, I mounted a 1" square micro 12v fan internally and baffled the thermostat (many hours of testing). It now will keep the Scamp within 1 deg (or more if you use the "Span" option on the Hunter). It simply pulls and circulates the Scamp's air through the thermostat. And I personally feel this is and has been the problem with the furnace getting too hot then too cold before it kicks on/off again for other Scampers. In other words, it's not the thermostat that's necessarily the problem, but the lack of air movement at the end of the counter where they're located!! I posted a link to my Flickr photos showing my digi AC thermostat mod and it shows this fan along with the wiring. Again, just something to think about....especially if you're a "light" sleeper like myself.

Originally Posted by JALEE View Post
Someday I'd like to figure out how to connect it to the AC Darryl. Not that skilled yet!

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Old 11-17-2014, 01:50 PM   #16
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 31
Wow. Excellent info. Thanks Darral.

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Old 11-17-2014, 04:08 PM   #17
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Casita 17 ft DLX SD
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 3,078
The minimum setting for the thermostat pictured is approximately 45 deg F .
You can purchase a subbase for the pictured thermostat with a off / heat switch and a fan switch with off / on / auto. The furnace in an RV does not have the necessary relay to make the fan switch function properly. RV thermostats have a detent so the furnace does not turn on in cold weather storage or when traveling. The only problem with some programmable thermostats is that there is a phantom load to power the internal circuit board or charge the internal battery

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