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Old 01-14-2011, 09:07 PM   #21
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wow Peter... yer smart!
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:22 PM   #22
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Smile

Good idea to use a three-way switch. I have done that in the past using standard home three-way light switches, available at any hardware store. We like the new style rectangular flat wall switches rather than the older style, but both work the same way. The upside is that I can have a bank of switches all together for my 110V and 12V lights (the same switches work on both voltages) and a 110V electrical outlet that look compatible. The disadvantage is that you need a larger cutout than for a little electronics type switch. This picture shows what I mean, from our previous Boler renovation.

I also like your LED indicator light idea, and will shamelessly copy it when we do the new trailer in the spring..

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Old 01-20-2011, 06:43 PM   #23
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Any idea why these are called three-way switches when there are just two ways to operate them?

I had a four-way installed to control some outdoor lights. I think it's so the electrician can bill you more.

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Matt
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in SV View Post
Any idea why these are called three-way switches when there are just two ways to operate them?
It has to do with the number of wiring terminals. 3-way switches have three, 4-way switches have four.

To wire up a light that has two on/of switches, you use two 3-way light switches. The first 3-way switch is wired so the house's "hot" wire connects to the "load" terminal, and the two "pole" terminals are wired to the other 3-way switch's pole terminals, and the second switch's "load" terminal goes to the light:

hot wire-----3-Way====3-way-----light

To wire up a light that has three or more light switches, you wire a 3-way switch at either end, but insert however many 4-way switches you want in the middle:

hot wire-----3-Way====4-Way====4-Way====3-way-----light
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