Still working in the refrigerator area...
Next we replaced the bulk head that is closest to the bed on both sides, here again heresy will be preformed and the silicone word evoked...
We follow rules when working with the stuff, we stay with silicone's that are made for fiberglass for instance when working on fiberglass.
When an adhesive is needed and heat is an issue we use silicone's formulated as adhesives, not sealants.
When heat is not an issue I like the new polyurethanes.
Where wood is concerned its Gorilla glue (another polyurethane)
We do allot of clamping, pressing, or using tension to the floor with braces.
We seal all, we mean all wood, all sides so they cannot wick moisture or die drying out.
We use hardwoods mostly, all openings for hatches ect. are framed in.
All the framed in areas are bonded one way or another, no screws are used puncturing the fiberglass hull, we do not bond to painted surfaces, only the resin layer is bonded to the wood structures.
On occasion the trailer still being off its frame gets flipped over so gravity, press weights and flow of liquid materials is in our favor. This does not always show in picture set ups.
In this first set of pictures we are addressing bulk head shape and strength, we chose a thicker 3/4 oak ply for looks, its better strength and the ability to hold stress will hold the weight
of a larger than you expect refrigerator
, its weight
transmitted to the floor without issues going bouncy down the road.
New bulk head set in place on refrigerator side.
We use wood "L" brackets to hold bulkheads in place, and yes
there is high heat silicone adhesive
bonding this to the fiberglass hull
which is needed because of heat exhausted from the ammonia refrigerator
trapped in this area.
To hold bulk heads plumb, we fabricate oak "L" brackets which are adhered to the roof, the bulkhead is then screwed thru the side into the bracket once its set up, epoxy is not used as it is not forgiving enough towards shock and becomes brittle in heated environments, this area well hold a heated ammonia condenser... Silicone adhesive works well and has NEVER
failed in past remodels or use. The area to be bonded is cleaned of paint
first, cleaned and rinsed with water and degreaser, finally rinsed with acetone and allowed to dry completely, then bonded. This area will be warm because of the water heater also.
Refrigerator compartment starting to shape up, oak trims
the cut out opening, looking at hull from here you can see
past repairs...We will examine refrigerator deck closer in the next pics.
This is my personal preference, I set guides on the deck so the
refrigerator slides into place using the guides, it prevents shifting
and tearing of insulation which will eventually be put into this space.
<span style="color:#000000">The floor or deck of the refrigerator is also supported by a tee brace, its a simple brace and is adhered to the hall as well, screws are placed into the brace from the top of the deck down after the silicone adhesive is set up in 24 hours.
We need to brace this area yet leave it open
so the water heater can be installed from the rear wall where the tail light
once was, it faces the rear now.
<span style="color:#ff00ff">Under the deck, this Tee brace was used, it is adhered to the wall
to stay stable, it transmits the weight
from the deck to the floor.
Note the use of the wheel well as support for this deck, ply was used to match needed heights.
Our remodel post will continue, we are having great fun especially if its approached as a hobby, we do like seeing it come together and look forward to it rebirth again.
Happy Camping, Safe Trails.
Harry and Kenna