70's Scamp Restoration - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-15-2011, 02:05 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft "Siesta"
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Jay, the doors, table and countertop looks beautiful. The whole interior is great. Your wood working skills were put to good use in this project. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:49 PM   #16
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And your'e going to let renters have at it???? If you decide to sell it be sure and post it here first!! Beautiful work! I'd be interested.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:26 PM   #17
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I have read that others have also used memory foam for their cushion/mattress. Do you mind telling me what you purchased exactly? Was it a mattress that you cut up? Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:31 PM   #18
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I bought a 4" king size memory foam mattress from Overstock.com. Cut it to shape with an electric knife. IMHO it's HOT to sleep on. Which is good in the cool Spring and Fall, but too hot for good sleeping in the warm summer months. YMMV
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:15 PM   #19
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Cool Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay B. View Post
...Table is solid cherry...
I had a solid Birch table. One day it was in the bed position and I was kneeling on it doing something on the back window when CRACK! The table split. Not along a glued seam, but one of the boards split.

So my advice to you would be to be sure to reinforce the table across the opening, that is across the boards/grain.

BTW your restoration is unbelievable! Excellent job!
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
I had a solid Birch table. One day it was in the bed position and I was kneeling on it doing something on the back window when CRACK! The table split. Not along a glued seam, but one of the boards split.

So my advice to you would be to be sure to reinforce the table across the opening, that is across the boards/grain.

BTW your restoration is unbelievable! Excellent job!
You have to be somewhat careful in adding across grain supports. If you fasten them all the way across something will split as the table top expands and contracts with moisture. This can be solved by attaching the cross braces with a screw at each end of the cross brace through an elongated hole in the cross brace. This will allow the table top to expand and contract without putting stress on the glue joints or fibers.

A better solution is to use a good quality plywood which is more stable and stronger.
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Old 05-16-2011, 06:56 AM   #21
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Wow! Beautiful!

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Old 05-16-2011, 07:45 AM   #22
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Table top was glued up using wooden dowels to fasten together the stock and then was cut into the appropriate shape. Then the entire thing was fastened to a sheet of 3/4 plywood, allowing for expansion of the wood. The sides and front are thicker than the middle so the plywood does not show.
Since I made the piece longer than I needed, I was able to use the cutoff for a backsplash. So the backsplash would not break I cut out the back and inserted a wooden spline for strength.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:16 AM   #23
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When I found it there were two mismatched jalousie windows on the sides. Even after alot of help from the forum I was unable to find replacements so I had to opt for the radius corner windows. Ordered them from the guys at Scamp. Here are the pictures of the install process.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1127553...J2g5r2zlvrW7gE#

It was not as difficut as I had anticipated. Less open area for airflow than the originals but that was offset by the fantastic fan install.
Hi Jay,
Do you have any pictures of the fibreglassing of the corners to accommodate the radius corner? Any advise on making the width/strength of the corner fibreglass would be great.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:19 AM   #24
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Very nice!

And I particularly like the way you did the sink under the counter like that and the sink cover from the countertop.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:06 AM   #25
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Amazing - well done!
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:40 PM   #26
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Beautiful work! The fiberglass looks amazing and I LOVE the cabinet faces.

Two Thumbs up!
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:25 PM   #27
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What wood and stain did you use for your cabinet doors. They are just what I've been looking for.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:21 PM   #28
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Similar Solution

Our table is also glued up boards with one difference, the pieces go in the other direction almost meaning you have to break the boards to cause them to separate.

The first picture shows our table is only half as long as the standard table. The second picture shows that the finished table is two identical hinged pieces. I lower the table down in the halved state and then unfold it.

I bought each half of the table as a glued up pine 2x4x0.75 board at Home Depot and cut it to the required width. I stained and then urethaned it with multiple coats.

We chose the half table because it makes sitting at the table easier and opens the trailer, making it appear larger. It makes sitting at the table easier. As well it is easier to set up as a bed than a full table.

Norm
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