'74 Compact II restoration started

[Donna D.]

Pardon me for butting into the conversation, but let me tell you what I know about paint shops. No two are alike in the quality of work done. Let me repeat that, no two are alike in the quality of work done. We have several MAACO shops here in Portland. They all CHARGE the same amount for work (estimate rate). One shop, that I know about, does absolute stellar work. The paint people have worked at that shop for years. Get repeat business from longtime customers and it takes weeks to get an appointment to get anything painted. Another shop across town, I wouldn't take my go cart to them to paint. If you need something done, they can do it tomorrow. IIIIIICCCCCCKKKKK.

So, if you want something painted, make absolutely sure you know who you're taking it to based on THAT SHOP'S reputation, not some nationwide reputation. You may be VERY sorry.

And the best paint jobs are done with all brightwork and windows removed. The reason is simple, if you ever pull anything (like a window) and then put it back in, the chance of getting it in EXACTLY the same spot is pretty slim. You don't want to have a "ring" around the window where there's no paint.

Off my soap box now and back to your regularly scheduled topic.

[Larry&Carrie]

Pardon me for butting into the conversation, but let me tell you what I know about paint shops. No two are alike in the quality of work done. Let me repeat that, no two are alike in the quality of work done. We have several MAACO shops here in Portland. They all CHARGE the same amount for work (estimate rate). One shop, that I know about, does absolute stellar work. The paint people have worked at that shop for years. Get repeat business from longtime customers and it takes weeks to get an appointment to get anything painted. Another shop across town, I wouldn't take my go cart to them to paint. If you need something done, they can do it tomorrow. IIIIIICCCCCCKKKKK.

So, if you want something painted, make absolutely sure you know who you're taking it to based on THAT SHOP'S reputation, not some nationwide reputation. You may be VERY sorry.

And the best paint jobs are done with all brightwork and windows removed. The reason is simple, if you ever pull anything (like a window) and then put it back in, the chance of getting it in EXACTLY the same spot is pretty slim. You don't want to have a "ring" around the window where there's no paint.

Off my soap box now and back to your regularly scheduled topic.

YUP!!!!! double ditto..... Larry

[Chuck H]

Thanks, Heath. Maaco did a good job, but there were some areas that they could have applied a bit of Bondo after they sanded, or called me on what to do, but they just went ahead and sprayed over a few pitted areas that showed up after their initial sanding. Anyway, the paint looks even and glossy, and their taping-off was neatly done. Now time will tell how it stands up.

It was expensive; if your friend is somewhat experienced, I think you could save a lot. Just spray lightly so you won't get drips and sags. Take time to prepare the surface, as with all painting. Every little blemish shows more with glossy paint over it.

Best of luck,
Fran

Francene, don't beat yourself up too bad over those small pinholes in the paint. I spent weeks sanding and filling and spot puttying my Compact II before taking it to the paint shop and I was sure I'd gotten all the prep work just right, but lo and behold the little beggars showed up and disappointed me. Now I just consider them as part of the "caricture "of my trailer what you've done looks GREAT! Keep up the good work. Chuck H.

[JenPB]

Also photo of trailer tongue add-ons, battery box holder, storage box holder, and spare tire holder.
Whew,
Fran

Hey! WOW! I recognize that tongue setup! So far so good!

Your project is rolling along so nicely! LOVE it! Keep posting!

Jen

[francene]

I knew each Maaco shop was individually owned, franchised. This particular one is new to Bellingham. I guess they're not going out of their way to impress. A neat, clean, even job, just expected a bit more care.

Thanks for the comments!

[francene]

Your design looked like a good example to me, Jen. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery... a belated is in order. I forgot I was influenced by yours. ( I got my spare tire hanging out the right side, though. Haven't mounted it yet. )

Thanks,
Fran

[JenPB]

Your design looked like a good example to me, Jen. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery... a belated is in order. I forgot I was influenced by yours. ( I got my spare tire hanging out the right side, though. Haven't mounted it yet. )

Thanks,
Fran

IT was a hoot to see it there! I'm glad to see my fix inspired another!

What did you do to secure it in place? Mine has a post that rises on the body-side of the mount and nearly touches (about 1" clearance) the trailer. Currently, a strap holds it in place. I hope to make it a more permanent fastener in future.

Jen

[francene]

For the spare tire, Jen, I welded on a post upon which I welded one of those threaded u-shaped spare tire holders that are sold to loop over the trailer frame. You are right, there is barely any breathing space between the tire and the front of the trailer, but it's enough.

Best,
Fran

[francene]

Progress is happening, bit by bit...

Finally installed new foam-backed marine vinyl to walls and ceiling.

I installed the front window today, with it's window guard. All the windows needed extensive clean-up; plenty of old stubborn caulks and crud had to be removed. Fresh butyl tape and back on they go. One side window needed re-setting of loose glass, but I did that today, after getting supplies and instruction from a local window shop. Hope to get on the other two windows tomorrow.

It's great to get the parts back on the trailer; I keep bumping into them in my cluttered garage.

I wonder how Dana is doing?

[Dana T]

Oh my Fran, your trailer looks wonderful!

I too am making progress bit by bit, but I didn't tear mine down nearly as much -- not saying it doesn't need it though!

My wife reminds me I had better start posting instead of reading all the time. I'll do that as soon as I read a few more posts....

[francene]

Thanks much, Dana. My husband is very perfectionist and doesn't respond to the progress with words like "wonderful". It's nice to hear that.

By the way, have you ever seen the website : http://thistinyhouse.com ? They are refinishing a Compact Jr.

Keep up the good work, Dana~

Fran

[francene]

PLEASE HELP with a perplexing problem, all you electrical wizards.

I replaced the trailer light wiring today, and there is good news and bad news:

Good News- Flashers work
Turn Signals work
Outer Stop ( brake ) lights work

Bad News- Inner stop (brake) lights don't work
Nightime lights don't work
Side markers don't work

Tow CAR's headlights didn't work also because a Fuse blew when the headlight switch got turned on. We unpluged car from trailer, replaced blown fuse, and lights worked. However when connected back to trailer again, car and trailer lights didn't work again and fuse blew a second time.

So there's a problem with the white or brown wire. The trailer plug originally had a short white wire coming off it; I had previously attached this wire to the license plate of the vehicle, and all worked fine.

I had the brilliant idea to attach a long piece of white wire to the short stub, run it into the trailer and attach all the white wires from side marker lights and tail lights to it. Also, I connected this white wire to a trailer frame bolt as a 'trailer ground'.

So where did I goof? I guess I don't understand the principle of the white wire and 'grounding'.

Fran

[Dana T]

Hi Fran,

It's clear that there is a short circuit to ground from your trailer's marker and tail lights -- that's what is causing the headlight fuse to blow.

You're right that white is often the ground, but sometimes people don't wire everything according to the standard code. I suspect that is the case here.

According to the chart I have, brown is often the right turn/stop light. I don't know why you mentioned the brown wire ....

Anyway, what I would do is carefully inspect each marker, tail, and any other lights or circuits that are connected to the "running lights" circuit of your trailer plug -- on mine that's the green wire. You want to be sure there is no short to ground at each of these lights.

If you have a good ohmmeter you should be able to find the short circuit without blowing any more fuses.

I'm sending you a PM with my phone number as well.

[francene]

Thanks a lot, Dana for your reply.

I do have an Ohm meter. What do I set it to?

I just visually checked wire connections and side marker lights. There is one side light that does not match the others; it must have been a replacement. It has 2 bulbs in it and is wired a bit differently than the rest. Other than having 4 wires connected to eachother at the tail lights (3 browns and one black), the connections looked good.


Thanks for your help!

Fran

[Raya]

You want to measure resistance in this case, so you set it to Ohms. That will either be the word Ohm or an Omega symbol or the word "resistance." A reading of Zero means all is clear. Anything higher than that is resistance of whatever amount.

Raya

[Dana T]

Hi Fran, when I answered your post last night I wasn't as awake as I thought I was.

There is another possibility: the running lights circuit of your tow vehicle cannot run the additional load of the running lights of your trailer.

I wanted my connector to match U-Haul's standard because I rent their trailers from time to time. Their standard is as follows:
White - ground
Green - running lights
Red - left turn/stop
Brown - right turn/stop

My tow vehicle, a Toyota Camry, uses 3 circuits where U-Haul uses two -- the Camry has left turn, right turn, and brakes. So I needed to buy a converter box that would map the three circuits of the Camry into the two circuits (left turn/stop and right turn/stop) of U-Haul's layout. I puposely bought a box that "amplified" the circuits because the Camry uses light-gauge wires that are adequate for its own lights but not for an additional load. This same box also "amplifies" the running lights circuit.

You can get these boxes at U-Haul which is instant gratification 7 days a week, many RV places, or online at places like etrailer.com. I got mine at etrailer at the same time I bought the hitch. I'm not sure anymore which one I bought, but it may well be the one shown here: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118130.htm

The fact that the standard trailer connection (as defined by U-Haul) uses combination turn/stop lights also explains why you do not get anything for your central brake light -- it needs to be a separate circuit.

HTH, and you are welcome to call me.

Dana

[Dana T]

I re-read your post again and realize I am not sure about something -- did all the trialer lights work when you had the white wire only connected to the license plate? Was the only change the connection of the short white stub to the white wires of all the trailer lights, and that's when the headlight fuse started blowing?

If that's the case, at least one of your trailer running lights is wired with the "hot" wire connected to its white wire, and its other wire is connected to ground. Check each of the running lights and make sure its white wire, as originally wired, is to the ground side of the circuit.

Dana

[francene]

Well, progress is happening slowly but surely. Hooked up the gas appliances, turned it on and tested for leaks and it smelled of gas everywhere! Tightened up the connections and soap tested everything and it's good to go!
Fridge support cabinet was fun to work on, and fridge is totally secured; I don't know what was holding that fridge in place when I brought the trailer home, there was a flimsy enclosure for it, with rotty wood here and there. It still works on propane and 110V. It probably works on 12v too but it won't be connected to the battery because my car does not charge the battery and the fridge would quickly drain the deep cycle battery. BTW, the Dometic manuals are online and worth a read through.

Replaced pop-top mechanism with help from other Compact II owners - Thanks all!

The pop-top is next; hope to sew up new fabric and put the top back on next. My garage is way less cluttered these days, save for the pop-top, so on it goes.

Happy Restoring!

Francene

[francene]

Forgot the 'before' and 'after' fridge photos; removed lots of rust, cleaned inside mold out, put in new cord and plug, primed and painted exterior. Also flipped door opening to face kitchen.

Whew! Glad it all works again.

Francene

[Raya]

Nice work!

Looking at the wall between the stove and the bed (on the driver's side), I'm curious: Does the Compact II normally have enough extra length/width for a little closet there, or are you making a "trotter box" for your feet to go in (where the last foot or two of the bed is in a nitch and the rest of the space is used for something else)?

Nifty, and I may have to copy your red 'fridge door insert. Did you buy something new to put in there, or paint something, or...?

Also, is there a special paint for the refrigerator guts, or did you use a basic, hardware-store type spray paint, or something else? I like the looks of that a lot better than the typical rusty ones. Oh, and can you tell how you prepped that area, with all the coils and what-not? How did you get in there and with what?

Thanks in advance for your time in answering any questions; watching you work is inspiring. If only I had a garage/shop..... :dreams:

Raya