76 Boler Reno/Rework - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-29-2011, 02:25 AM   #29
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Name: Bruce
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Originally Posted by kgingeri View Post
No, didn't weight it yet Don, but it is definitely lighter. The axle alone is 95 (shipping specs, with brakes), and I venture to guess the entire frame is not much more. Two of us could lift it and flip it on the bench with ease. I could lift it myself as well. So all and all I'd say it's between 200 and 250, where the original may have been 300-350? I will weight it dry and report back after all renos are done, to let everyone know how well I did.

The welder is Jason, my friend who welds trailers for a living. I do weld, but never aluminum, and I didn't want to experiment on a critical piece like this!
Did he TIG it or use a spool gun? (welding nerd here)
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brslk

Did he TIG it or use a spool gun? (welding nerd here)
Hi Brslk, his welder has the spool internal but the feeding mechanism is in the end by the tip. This avoids 'bird-nesting', though he says the take more abuse - being on the floor or hitting it. The frame fits great. got it on the aft. pics coming in a few minutes.

Karl. :v)
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:10 PM   #31
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It fits - whew!

Well it wasn't real mild, but I just had to know!
Here are two pics - rigging to get it on and it all done and covered up again...

Karl
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:40 PM   #32
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Latest pics, tried a previous post and lost my big blurb, so I'll post these and then explain.
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image-2070358387.jpg  
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:23 PM   #33
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So it's been a while! I still feels like I'm in demolition mode, but I am doing some building - windows and cabinets.

End of May is coming fast but I want to do a quaulity job not a fast one. All windows and almost all outer rivets are removed. I don't think there was a rivet that didn't leak in this thing!! I am for sure using stainless hardware, with threads coated in silicon, for any thru-body mounting required! The steel pin left inside the rivet also rusts and leaves nice stains :v( To remove rivets, I found that a small wood chisel I could resharpen (just a bit wider then a rivet head) and a hammer, removed the rivet head nicely, then a punch to poke the old rivet thru. This was the least damaging to the fiberglass and the fastest in the long run. Sometime the steel pin part is sticking thru a bit and that makes it tougher. I'll be using a clamp-ring to re-mount the new windows, so no rivets there!

I'll be re-mounting front and back windows with Wedge-tight rubber (from Speanaur, in Canada) and a chrome insert. The other four I am building and will use a clamp-ring affair for mounting. The door window will be slightly larger as will the kitchen.

The third pic shows that there is quite a bit of patching to do on the body, holes from previous appliances etc. Also the skirt has been damaged in a few places, and behind the door hinges. So I've got a sizeable amout of fiberglass patching materials.

Anyway, hope to be posting more soon and more often!

Karl :v)
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:02 PM   #34
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Hey Karl

I enjoyed reading about the work you are doing. That is a big task and it looks great. I love the aluminum frame.

I am in the process of freshening mine up a bit and I am going to use stainless steel button-head bolts and never seize. That way I can remove the cabinets at a later date with a helper on the outside with an allen wrench to loosen the bolts. My Dad has a bench grinder set up for polishing stainless so it won't take long to make them shine.

Keep us posted with your Boler Project. I can't wait to see it all done.

Michael
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMike
Hey Karl

I enjoyed reading about the work you are doing. That is a big task and it looks great. I love the aluminum frame.

I am in the process of freshening mine up a bit and I am going to use stainless steel button-head bolts and never seize. That way I can remove the cabinets at a later date with a helper on the outside with an allen wrench to loosen the bolts. My Dad has a bench grinder set up for polishing stainless so it won't take long to make them shine.

Keep us posted with your Boler Project. I can't wait to see it all done.

Michael
Thanks for your encouragement Michael! It sure is a pile of work, but I do hope to have it looking like NEW when done - and stay that way for years to come!

I personally see stainless as the only way to go. Your right about being able to remove pieces if need be - good thought. You may want to put a dab of silicon on the threads too - for seal and to sort of act like lock-tite. One problem with hardware vs rivets is likely that a nut-bolt combo can loosen with vibration etc. Just more 2 cents worth.

Karl
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:52 PM   #36
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Looks great Karl. I also put in all stainless bolts around the windows in my rebuild to be able to take things out. Anything that was straight steel was rusted through and tough to take out. I also would suggest sitting in a mockup of your front dinning area. I was planning to put a 12" storage area behind one of the seats and after trying it on for size with my wife and me sitting at the table, realized we would be hitting each others knees. I ended up with a full seat across the front and no storage area, but we are 6 feet tall and a smaller area may work for someone else.
Keep the photo's coming, it's nice to see your work and design ideas.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:00 PM   #37
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I forgot to mention how I installed the bolts for the windows. I used a stainless steel hex head bolt, whick looks like a rivet, and on the inside used a stainless steel washer and a stainless lock nut with plastic interior. I put a bead of Eternabond on the washer side that was next to the fiberglass and tighened. The Eternabond would sqeeze out to help lock the nut on and give a good waterproof seal. I was still able to take the bolt out when I screwed up once, but the eternabond really held everything tight.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:52 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by DannyH View Post
I forgot to mention how I installed the bolts for the windows. I used a stainless steel hex head bolt, whick looks like a rivet, and on the inside used a stainless steel washer and a stainless lock nut with plastic interior. I put a bead of Eternabond on the washer side that was next to the fiberglass and tighened. The Eternabond would sqeeze out to help lock the nut on and give a good waterproof seal. I was still able to take the bolt out when I screwed up once, but the eternabond really held everything tight.
Yeah, thanks for the suggestion Danny - re the dinette and Eternabond.

I was concerned about size/room when others here questioned it, so I did exactly that - built a cardboard pattern and mockup (with a thin wood top). It seems like lots of room to me, but we are smaller then most - both under the 5'6" mark. When built, I'll sit and take a picture. The seats will not be deep, 16" and 18", leaving a little over 20" for leg room. We can also sit with knees out if that feels to crammy. The door side will be big enough to hold a potty too.

I gotta say, one of the great things about a forum like this is the encouragement and motivation stimulus it gives
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:33 PM   #39
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Back At It! :)

Soooo.... I took a week of holidays to get this project moving - and it is!

Here are some updates - see attached pics - hopefully they stay in the order I uploaded them. I'll describe them in that order, anyway...
  1. Pic of my dinette prototype (small but functional)
  2. Patching the wall that will be exposed - I used Mono in the seams. A previous owner did this (rather then the sticky tape) and it worked well, so I did the same.
  3. Installed a wheel-jack BUT it needed to be disassembled and cut down about 3.5" as the Boler tongues are quite low
  4. Installed a 14x14" new vent and it will have a fan. Hid wires in vinyl/foam interior layer
  5. Getting the exterior ready to paint. This project is not one for the faint of heart - WOW what a pile of work! Fiberglass patching, bondo, putty lotsa lotsa sanding!!!
  6. Sample of some of the fiberglass patching I had to do. I will not have a furnace. We'll use a micro furnace, as we always stay in hook-up areas
  7. Outside view of patched area primed to be sure it's ready for paint
  8. Interior all ready for paint. I patched ALL - and I do mean ALL - rivet holes. New holes will be made for new cabinets as I build them. And as mentioned, only stainless hardware thru the skin.
  9. Interior was primed with a tinted oil based primer and then I went over it with a decorative stone spray (my wife's idea). I did a small test area initially and it seemed ok, but I'm waiting for it all to dry now (quite cool out today so it's not a speedy process)
  10. a sample (though not great) of primer plus stone spray

So that's it for now. If it's good weather tomorrow (not windy, dry and warm) I'll be painting the exterior - nerve racking a bit. There is way too much potential for 'curtains' (paint runs - for non painters)!

Any who - that's it for now.
Attached Thumbnails
PrototypeDinette.JPG   PatchingForDinette.JPG  

WheelJack.JPG   New14x14Vent.JPG  

GettingRdyToPaint.JPG   FiberglassPatching.JPG  

OutsidePatched.JPG   InteriorRdyToPaint.JPG  

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Old 06-29-2011, 11:37 PM   #40
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...ok, my last pic of the interior sample didn't seem to show up... here's another try...
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:27 PM   #41
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Well I got about the best day I could (Someone must like me ;v). Here is a shot of the inside and two of the outside. Painting complete! YAH!
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OutsideDone.JPG  
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:36 PM   #42
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Amazing!!!!
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