76 Boler Reno/Rework - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-22-2011, 07:04 PM   #85
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Name: jan
Trailer: 1972 Boler
New York
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support post--did you have roof sag problem?

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Originally Posted by kgingeri View Post
Latest pics, tried a previous post and lost my big blurb, so I'll post these and then explain.
Hi Karl,

Sorry to be a pain, but I noticed that you put a support pole inside the egg while you worked on it. Did you have any problems with the roof sagging near the front of the vent? We have that problem and were wondering how to fix it--it sags at the front corner of the vent closest to the center of the egg. Didn't know if just putting the support post in for a while if it would reshape itself...(dream on, right?) Any thoughts? Thanks.

J
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:40 PM   #86
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Name: Karl in Elmira ON
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Sagging Roof

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Originally Posted by janony View Post
Hi Karl,

Sorry to be a pain, but I noticed that you put a support pole inside the egg while you worked on it. Did you have any problems with the roof sagging near the front of the vent? We have that problem and were wondering how to fix it--it sags at the front corner of the vent closest to the center of the egg. Didn't know if just putting the support post in for a while if it would reshape itself...(dream on, right?) Any thoughts? Thanks.

J
You are not a pain at all Janony!! I wouldn't post on this forum if I wasn't ready to help others - heck, I've got a lot out myself, so it's good to put back in

The pole was a temporary support during the winter - especially if there was going to be a wet snow load on top.

Lengthy Explaination :
I gutted the insides entirely (other then removing the foam/vinyl interior) and in doing so, I noticed that in manufacturing the egg, they used the pantry on one side, and the upper/lower cabinet (with a wrought-iron in between) to give support to the entire body shape. If you look at my attached picture, you will notice that there is an aluminum square tube (1"x1") that runs floor to ceiling. I didn't like the wrought-iron look much and felt that the square tube would do a much better job (plus I could run my wiring for fan and lights up it!). The vent hole (that I even made bigger - 14"!) doesn't help any. It weakens the roof somewhat in that area. If a trailer was left sitting winter after winter with a snow load (like we can get in Canada), it could definitely cause sagging. Also if there is no (good) support between the up/lower cupboards anymore - that would do it as well!

Recommendation:
I think (and other may want to comment here) that if you did similar, but purposely made it higher then the current measurement, that would help take out your sag. My egg has some too, but I didn't notice until I mounted the upper cupboards and ha a gap above them near the front, even tho I measured from the counter up carefully! You may need a bit of a plate or piece of plywood to spread the pressure point on the ceiling or you might end up with spider cracks in the external gel-coal and/or too much of a bump. If this isn't clear please tell me - I'll do a quick sketch for you.

More Observations:
Now, all that said (I'm good at run-on sentences )... I could find NOTHING to measure that was square or reliably level - so a good eyeball is your best bet - do measure and level, just give it a good eye before battening it down - in my opinion anyway
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support-kitchen.jpg  
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by JEAN-L View Post
Hi
You do very nice work , it's look neat .
Do you still have the old windows? If so , are they for sale ? Jean-L
Jean, I don't think I ever did get back to you about the original windows!?
The windows were just to rough for any reuse. I did end up trashing them - sorry.
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:59 PM   #88
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@Janony, here are more window pics I had - I will try to take more still as well...
(you did see the window pics in this post I presume?)
Attached Thumbnails
Window1.JPG   window2.jpg  

window5.JPG   window6.JPG  

screens.jpg   wingnutsupports.jpg  

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Old 08-23-2011, 07:52 AM   #89
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Name: jan
Trailer: 1972 Boler
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Hi karl,

Thanks for the window pics and the info about the roof support. We had also noticed that the closet and side cabinets (with wrought iron supports) supported the roof, so we haven't touched them. But we can stand in the middle and push up on the roof and it will pop back up to where it belongs (and I mean pop). I've had some ideas for ways to build in support, either by fiberglassing bowed rods into the roof or otherwise rebuilding the center structure (I have what seems a great idea to me, involving a "flying saucer" as a base mold, but my husband wants to look at other ideas first ) , so I'm investigating to see if there is an easier way. The 75 Scamp we had before had a little tendency to do this when we first got it, but we found if we put in an extra support through the winter when there was snow weight, it seemed fine when we used it in the better weather. We'll come up with something, I'm sure.

On another note, I started stripping the inside yesterday while my husband took out the windows. I took out the back dinette bases and started stripping the linoleum, and when I pulled up the ensolite at the back to pull out the linoleum, I found a carpenter ants' nest that couldn't fit in a turkey pan it was so big! So I started spraying and digging out the wet floor, and found the whole back floor was infested (they had put a second layer of plywood over the original, and both were wet from leaks--and then parked it in high weeds. Nothing like ringing the dinner bell for carpenter ants!). We ended up cutting out the whole back floor and dragging it out in the driveway and setting it on fire--then continued spraying inside the egg, and the barn where we have it--to make sure they were all dead. Last thing we need is to cause an infestation in the barn...although that really isn't likely as long as they don't find damp wood. But stilll...why chance it? So now we'll be replacing the floor as well...but now we can inspect the chassis and axle easily! Ah, renovations...so much fun.

We're going to put the dinette bases back in, but we're going to make it a full-time bed, so we'll box the center and close in the front. Then we think we'll use one sheet of plywood on pistons under the mattress to give us access to the storage area. We'll run a 2x4 support across the back to receive the hinges and give a straight edge. It's still in planning stage in my head, so I don't have all the details yet, but what do you think? Does anyone see any problems with this?

J
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #90
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You just saved me so much time!!! This post + a new-to-me boler project = fabulous day!!!
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:49 PM   #91
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It's been a while...

Wow Shirely! Glad the thread is still useful - it's be a while.

I'm just getting ready for the annual spring cleanup again, for another season of use. My wife and I love our little egg
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:21 PM   #92
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Trailer: Boler 1700 '79
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Body work

Hi,
I'm just going to start fixing the small spider cracks and filling some holes in my 79 boler. I was wondering how your bondo was holding up? I am deciding on what to use either bondo or west system epoxy. Any feedback you can give would be awesome.
Thanks
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:02 PM   #93
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@Crackedegg: Bondo and body puddy is holding up fine so far - where I used it.

I didn't fix all my spider cracks, but I wonder if a good epoxy won't be better as it is closer to the original material (gel-coat).

You may want to check with some users here as to whether or not the marine paint, InterLux (I think), filled in cracks or not. I have yet to give mine a good paint job and expect to use that. Maybe body puddy would be enough?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:13 PM   #94
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updates

We used Bondo and it has held up well; we actually used a "hammered" paint to camoflage the spider cracks. I've heard there's actually a primer that is supposed to fill spider cracks; you might want to ask at the paint store about it.

What we did have trouble with was the Super 77 Spray Adhesive that had been recommended. We used it to put up the reflectix insulation, then to glue the lining material to the reflectix. It was fine while it was cool, but in the hot heat of August it lost integrity and everything was sagging. I contacted the company and they said all I could do was strip everything down, use an adhesive remover to remove all traces of the adhesive, and start over. Yeah, like that's going to happen. So we used sofa cushions propped up with boards and posts to put pressure on the ceiling materials, and it re-adhered. We don't camp when it's really hot, so we just leave the posts in during that time. It's not a great solution, but it works--and it's better than stripping everything out! I don't know what to recommend otherwise. I'm also not sure I'm happy with the reflectix insulation; I wish we'd gone the extra money to buy all new ensolite. I think it would have been a better insulator. Other than that though, we're very happy with the results of our makeover. We replaced the front and rear windows (and let me tell you, that was NOT a fun job, installing those!) but we kept our old jalousies and reworked them. We bought new regulators but found that our old ones still work fine after soaking them, so we now have spares. We did not put a stove back in, but installed a microwave instead--going with a 700 watt so we can use our little generator with it. I'll post pics one of these days. It came out great except for the glue situation...
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:40 PM   #95
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Sounds good Jan!

Reworking those jalousies must have been a job - new cranks, seals etc. I didn't have that much patience (nor was I trying to keep ours vintage tho).

I agree with the front and rear window replacement - what a fight!! I have a fun story about that too... So I first used a thinner acrylic than the original. I cut it to the original size, and bought all new rubber seal and bead. I even put shading film on them to keep sun out. After I had them in I thought, "man I'm glad I only have to do that once!".... All was well until we drove down the hi-way at hi-way speeds. When we stopped and went inside the window had the opposite curve in it - to the inside - from wind pressure (even with the guard over it!). I could just pop it out again!! Soooo.... I knew what my next project was gonna be, and I didn't get away with doing that nasty job only once either!! Needless to say, it now has the original thickness too.

I still have to finish my windows with quicker latching. For now I go out and push the bolts thru (2 at bottom corners) while my wife turns on the wingnuts. They've held up good tho, no leaking etc. I did replace some of the darkness film - the original bubbled on the acrylic (which if I recall, the instructions said *not* to install it on - but they were in the box and I only saw that after I bought it)

I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but one of the best 'glues' I've found to work is clear silicon - emphasis on 'clear' - the kind you get in a chalking gun tube. It's also gotta say 100% silicon. If surfaces are as clean as possible (even if rough), it cures without heat effecting it, has 'give' for temperature changes and sticks to the smoothest of surfaces (again, as long as they are clean).

You might want to try some in areas where your liner sags. You could possibly even poke thru it and squeeze some in with just a hand squeeze tube? Put pressure on it for an hour and see what that does?! I glued indoor/outdoor rug to the lower back area (rough fiberglass side) and it held even when it got wet once... ummm, ok, so that's another story...

I forgot to drain the tap the first fall. So the next spring when we got to camp and the first time I connected water we had a flood! Over the winter the water had frozen in it and busted the threaded brass just under the sink!! I yelled at my wife to shut of the tap (she was inside when I hooked it up) to which she yelled back that it was. That was fun - not! Anyway, the rug stayed glued on with the silly-cone even tho it was soaked

Man, can't wait for the adventures this year!!
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:43 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by kgingeri View Post
......I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but one of the best 'glues' I've found to work is clear silicon - emphasis on 'clear' - the kind you get in a chalking gun tube. If surfaces are as clean as possible, it cures without heat effecting it, has give for temperature changes and sticks to the smoothest of surfaces (again, as long as they are clean).
Oh NO!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:54 PM   #97
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@Donna: Why not? Have you had a bad experience with 'silly-cone'?

Guess I should add, that it's sure not great if you want to get it off again tho!
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:02 PM   #98
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Karl, Silicone is the Devil's Bane when it comes to all molded trailers. You're right, it's nearly impossible to get completely off. The problem is the only thing that sticks to it, is more silicone. NOT A GOOD SOLUTION.

There's a ton of threads where folks have had nothing but problems with this CRAP-OLA. There are places where it's use is okay. Interior work for instance, but never for sealing windows or vents or snap caps or belly bands, etc., etc., etc.

RUN!
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