Originally Posted by Robert Johans
I really appreciate the drawings. They will come in handy for my next project, 1971 Boler
. Are you planning to replace all of your fiberglass furniture modules with wood cabinetry? What's the condition of your subfloor? I'm keeping a close eye on this thread!
I haven't settled on just what I'm going to use for cabinet construction yet. It's hard to beat FG for strength and weight!
Thoughts are 1/4" laminated oak and birch - though I'd need 4 sheets (with some waste of course) but I doubt that will be much lighter then the original FG cabinets. Original cabinets are fairly light
and made up of about 1/8" FG with 3/4 pieces (strips mostly) of plywood laminated into key areas. Particle board materials are quite heavy for the strength they give, so I'm not convinced there's much value in this method. I'd like a natural wood look, but not the weight
. Wood gets even heavier as it takes on moisture - and then starts to discolour, mold or even rot! :v(
Another thought is thin ply panelling, 1/8" but real ply - like mahogany door skins are (vs particle board center - as the laminated oak would be). This would be laminated (via silicon) with coroplast - plastic signboard-like panels (Home Depot carries it in Canada). This is a surprisingly strong combo. I've built a teardrop shell using this method and it has lasted great for 4000+ miles!! It ended up weighting in at 440lbs empty when done (sleeps two - 4' x 7'). Cabinet pieces would be reinforced with either aluminum angle or foam-core lumber strips (also used in my teardrop, and held up great).
Final thought (as of now ;v) is to weld a skeleton frame for each cabinet out of angle aluminum and cover (riveted likely) coroplast laminated with natural oak. You can now weld light
aluminum with a propane
or MAPP torch using special rods. Our Canadian Tire stores sell them and you can also buy them online. I think this is likely my lightest structure, but there is a fair amount of reinforcing to do to keep cabinet sides from being flimsy. Maybe light
panel + coroplast for these areas? It's also the most work!
I haven't finished thinking yet tho. ;vP
I will certainly post pics as I go - ha, for the amusement of all - if for no other reason. ;vD
Another thing I will do is use all stainless hardware and sealant to replace all original rivets that come thru the body. You may think your unit doesn't leak, but check most units in the cabinet seams. The problem with rivets is there is a hole for the crimp pin and unless that is sealed, water can get right through them - or cold air causing condensation. Also over time, and bumps, they can loosen. Look at all the older trailers reno'd and ask yourself why are they so black inside!? Sure some is condensation, if it's kept closed up all fall
and spring, but that much?! (If you live in a seasonal environment keep ventilation in it somehow without allowing blowing snow or rain in). When I took my cabinets off, the only moisture I found was around rivet holes - and it was substantial! The previous owner believed it didn't leak - I am sure he was being honest, but during a rain I saw some water coming in. As rivets age, I'm sure this gets worse. I'd be inclined to advise all FB owners to go around their unit with a clear sealer, and do their rivets - in hot weather when they are dry for sure.
As for floor, mine is all fiberglassed and in great shape. It has either one solid pc of 3/4" ply, or strips laminated into it. The main dinette area on mine is laminated strips - about 2" apart and about 2" wide (from what I remember being under it). I don't remember that same corrugated look under the main floor and it is almost on the ground now, so it's hard to check.
Hope that all helps!
EDIT: if using aluminum and the coroplast method, I'd also use aluminum square tubing in the tall closet corners and between the kitchen upper and lower cabinets to give the body the structural strength needed.
EDIT2: changed most of my original "corro-plast" to proper spelling - it should be "Coroplast".