76 Boler Reno/Rework - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-10-2010, 07:07 PM   #1
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76 Boler Reno/Rework

Hi All,

This will not be a real active thread as I'm doing this reno over the winter in Ontario Canada, but thought I'd start posting a few pics.

My plans are to redo most everything... axles, wheels, brakes (that is in addition to original equip), exterior paint (maybe not til next year), frame (aluminum - see other discussions on this hot topic ;v) and inside too - rebuild cabinets etc, from lighter materials. My objective is to have one of the lightest Bolers around.

So anyway, true to info found in the forums, my Boler had 22 screws, 1 rivet and 6 bolts to get the body off the frame - and that's where I am to date...

Karl *</:v)

(Pics of: frame less body, and inside stripped and washed)
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:54 PM   #2
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Some more pics...
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:11 PM   #3
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Karl this is going to be a fun thread to watch. Thanks for posting the beginning pictures.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:43 PM   #4
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Thanks Donna.

It sure is a 'project', and is gonna be lots of work - that's for sure!

Karl
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:48 PM   #5
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Here's specs for the new frame and pending cabinets - see attached picture...
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Old 12-11-2010, 07:48 PM   #6
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There's a lot of people fixing old Bolers are going to love all the measured drawings.
Well done! And, I like the pictures with the baloon statements. Nice touch.
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:13 PM   #7
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Yeah James, I figured I'd share the work. If someone else can benefit, great!!
Mind you, this is a 1976 1300, so I'm not sure how long or for what years it was the same.

I've added (to my working drawing) the wheel spindle measurement at about 41" from inner front edge of floor area (inside, right of doorway). This could vary tho, depending on load and axle degrees etc. My axle seems to be a 10 degree up originally. Also the tabs for body bolts are: 28" to rear nearest edge of 3x3" flange and 13" to the front ones from the same point - inner front floor edge. (they are marked ??" in the above pic)

Karl :v)
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgingeri
Yeah James, I figured I'd share the work. If someone else can benefit, great!!
Mind you, this is a 1976 1300, so I'm not sure how long or for what years it was the same.

I've added (to my working drawing) the wheel spindle measurement at about 41" from inner front edge of floor area (inside, right of doorway). This could vary tho, depending on load and axle degrees etc. My axle seems to be a 10 degree up originally. Also the tabs for body bolts are: 28" to rear nearest edge of 3x3" flange and 13" to the front ones from the same point - inner front floor edge. (they are marked ??" in the above pic)

Karl :v)
I really appreciate the drawings. They will come in handy for my next project, 1971 Boler. Are you planning to replace all of your fiberglass furniture modules with wood cabinetry? What's the condition of your subfloor? I'm keeping a close eye on this thread!
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Johans

I really appreciate the drawings. They will come in handy for my next project, 1971 Boler. Are you planning to replace all of your fiberglass furniture modules with wood cabinetry? What's the condition of your subfloor? I'm keeping a close eye on this thread!
Hi Robert,

I haven't settled on just what I'm going to use for cabinet construction yet. It's hard to beat FG for strength and weight!

Thoughts are 1/4" laminated oak and birch - though I'd need 4 sheets (with some waste of course) but I doubt that will be much lighter then the original FG cabinets. Original cabinets are fairly light and made up of about 1/8" FG with 3/4 pieces (strips mostly) of plywood laminated into key areas. Particle board materials are quite heavy for the strength they give, so I'm not convinced there's much value in this method. I'd like a natural wood look, but not the weight. Wood gets even heavier as it takes on moisture - and then starts to discolour, mold or even rot! :v(

Another thought is thin ply panelling, 1/8" but real ply - like mahogany door skins are (vs particle board center - as the laminated oak would be). This would be laminated (via silicon) with coroplast - plastic signboard-like panels (Home Depot carries it in Canada). This is a surprisingly strong combo. I've built a teardrop shell using this method and it has lasted great for 4000+ miles!! It ended up weighting in at 440lbs empty when done (sleeps two - 4' x 7'). Cabinet pieces would be reinforced with either aluminum angle or foam-core lumber strips (also used in my teardrop, and held up great).

Final thought (as of now ;v) is to weld a skeleton frame for each cabinet out of angle aluminum and cover (riveted likely) coroplast laminated with natural oak. You can now weld light aluminum with a propane or MAPP torch using special rods. Our Canadian Tire stores sell them and you can also buy them online. I think this is likely my lightest structure, but there is a fair amount of reinforcing to do to keep cabinet sides from being flimsy. Maybe light panel + coroplast for these areas? It's also the most work!

I haven't finished thinking yet tho. ;vP
I will certainly post pics as I go - ha, for the amusement of all - if for no other reason. ;vD

Another thing I will do is use all stainless hardware and sealant to replace all original rivets that come thru the body. You may think your unit doesn't leak, but check most units in the cabinet seams. The problem with rivets is there is a hole for the crimp pin and unless that is sealed, water can get right through them - or cold air causing condensation. Also over time, and bumps, they can loosen. Look at all the older trailers reno'd and ask yourself why are they so black inside!? Sure some is condensation, if it's kept closed up all fall and spring, but that much?! (If you live in a seasonal environment keep ventilation in it somehow without allowing blowing snow or rain in). When I took my cabinets off, the only moisture I found was around rivet holes - and it was substantial! The previous owner believed it didn't leak - I am sure he was being honest, but during a rain I saw some water coming in. As rivets age, I'm sure this gets worse. I'd be inclined to advise all FB owners to go around their unit with a clear sealer, and do their rivets - in hot weather when they are dry for sure.

As for floor, mine is all fiberglassed and in great shape. It has either one solid pc of 3/4" ply, or strips laminated into it. The main dinette area on mine is laminated strips - about 2" apart and about 2" wide (from what I remember being under it). I don't remember that same corrugated look under the main floor and it is almost on the ground now, so it's hard to check.

Hope that all helps!

EDIT: if using aluminum and the coroplast method, I'd also use aluminum square tubing in the tall closet corners and between the kitchen upper and lower cabinets to give the body the structural strength needed.

EDIT2: changed most of my original "corro-plast" to proper spelling - it should be "Coroplast".
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:40 PM   #10
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Here is a sketch of my proposed layout. This is fairly true to size (other than the tongue). I did an overlay sketch from an original Boler brouchure.
First is the proposed and second is a blank with grid, maybe someone might like to use it for their own 'playing around'...

Karl :v)
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:54 AM   #11
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From what I understand of your drawings, the front dinette was there when you got the trailer. Did you try it for size?

57" is desparately short for the 'facing' length of a trailer dinette. I tend to regard 66" as the bare minimum and then only when upright seats can be fitted, like in a diner - the higher the seats, the shorter the length a person occupies.

If the dinette is only really intended for one person, or for a couple that are happy to sit at a slant with their legs not under the table, then I can see this size might work.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:53 AM   #12
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I have to agree with Andrew. The dinette appears to be too small for comfort. I'd layout tape on the floor and see if you can sit there. You may find the table needs to be a whole lot smaller and your knees are more than just touching comfortably. Love the CAD! It's nice to see visuals:
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:53 AM   #13
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Yeah, you guys are right. It is too small for sitting with legs 'under' - at least two people. I did measure it out and try it. We'd likely do as you suggested Andrew - sit facing the bed.

I debated leaving a bench and having some kind of fold-down or portable table between, but thought this way one person could use it sitting with legs under. I tend to 'nerd' a lot (use my computer) when we camp, so I'd be the biggest user. We are both a shorter couple - 5'3" and 5'4" so that helps too.

I may need cushions across the front as well tho.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:43 PM   #14
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Maybe something like this would work? Worldwide Merchandise Company - Oak-finish Wall Table - Tables - Camping World You may need to fabricate it to make it narrow enough....
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