86 Scamp interior almost complete - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-29-2011, 10:32 AM   #15
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"I was thinking of venting straight down but it is the same idea. "

Ken H,

I basically did the same as Big Mike to install our AC unit in the bottom of the closet.

I put two pieces of 1x3 on the bottom of the closet floor to seperate the rear exhaust coils from the front cooling inlets. To further seperate them I put a fitted piece of foam up the sides basically moving the 1x3 up the side. Similarly on the top. I then topped it all with a 1/4 inch piece of plywood to virtually install our AC unit in a seperate volume. Very similar to BigMike but more piece meal.

I also put a 3rd piece of 1x3 on the floor of the closet near the front of the AC unit but with a 1/4 inch piece of plywood on top of it to tilt the AC unit towards the rear. This was to insure water flow towards the rear. Also I but a piece of soft foam insulation on the top of the bottom 1x3s to really seal the bottom.

Before putting the wood down I cut two holes thru the floor, one as an inlet and the other as an exhaust. The exhaust side is powered by two muffin fans to increase the flow of exhaust air.

On the inlet side I made a duct that goes towards the center of the trailer to seperate the exhaust from the cooling.

The advantage of this approach is that you don't need to cut thru the fiberglass.

You can see some pictures under Preparing a 1982 Scamp
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:43 PM   #16
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Norm and Ginny said "The advantage of this approach is that you don't need to cut thru the fiberglass."

Mike says, since some PO already cut a large hole in the curb side, I used what was there. I already had to patch a large hole in the street side from the removal of a non-functioning 3-way fridge. I also wanted to minimize water, mud, snow, salt and road dust not to mention critters from gaining access from below the floor. Many of the campgrouunds I frequent, are on dirt roads.

As you may already know, dust and dirt are the biggest enemies of air conditioners. When I was young and ambitious, I used to pick up window units that were left at the curb. More often than not, a thorough cleaning and lubrication of the fan bearings yeilded an A/C unit that provided many more years of service.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:55 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
"I was thinking of venting straight down but it is the same idea. "

Ken H,

I basically did the same as Big Mike to install our AC unit in the bottom of the closet.

I put two pieces of 1x3 on the bottom of the closet floor to seperate the rear exhaust coils from the front cooling inlets. To further seperate them I put a fitted piece of foam up the sides basically moving the 1x3 up the side. Similarly on the top. I then topped it all with a 1/4 inch piece of plywood to virtually install our AC unit in a seperate volume. Very similar to BigMike but more piece meal.

I also put a 3rd piece of 1x3 on the floor of the closet near the front of the AC unit but with a 1/4 inch piece of plywood on top of it to tilt the AC unit towards the rear. This was to insure water flow towards the rear. Also I but a piece of soft foam insulation on the top of the bottom 1x3s to really seal the bottom.

Before putting the wood down I cut two holes thru the floor, one as an inlet and the other as an exhaust. The exhaust side is powered by two muffin fans to increase the flow of exhaust air.

On the inlet side I made a duct that goes towards the center of the trailer to seperate the exhaust from the cooling.

The advantage of this approach is that you don't need to cut thru the fiberglass.

You can see some pictures under Preparing a 1982 Scamp
Here's a picture which shows an original down vent on a 1978 Scamp...
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1978 Scamp w-screen room 009.jpg  
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:17 AM   #18
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Name: Larry and Mitzi
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We did a similiar set up, but wanted the hot air on the back side. Used a small rv refrigerator vent and three 2" pieces of pvc on each side of the a/c intake down through the floor and will cover the vents with screen, the back exhaust is isolated with a sealed wall to vent out. Recently ran it for 2 days when it was 107 degrees and had no problem. We put a kitty littler pan below (as seen on this site) but so far it hasn't accumulated any water, mabye it's too hot. Hope the pictures show a little of what we did, not finished yet, still in progress. Thanks to everyone here for all their information!
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:48 PM   #19
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Larry this looks really clean! If you ever have the AC out, please update us with a photo of the underside pan and piping!

Regards,

Matt
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:57 PM   #20
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It's not too difficult to pull, strapped down with a harbor freight tie-down. The blue is the kitty litter pan, pvc in center has holes for draining out, all the wood has a coat of fiberglass. There will be some trim around the outside of the a/c and microwave to look more finished. Hope to get better with the photos.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:19 AM   #21
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Hi Larry, I like your setup for the A/C the fridge vent is a nice finished look. One thing I can not see is a return air supply for the outside a/c coil from the outside or does it just draw from the inside. Would not that cause a negative pressure in the trailer because usually you have all the windows closed when using the A/C

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Old 09-01-2011, 07:21 PM   #22
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It draws the intake air from the pvc pipes that are vented all the way through the floor from the underside of the camper, the hot air blows out the back through the refrigerator vent (in the last picture it's hard to see the vent holes in the outside vent from the inside view) where it is sealed off from the intake air coming from below the camper. When the cabinet front is sealed off with trim there should be no inside air being used at all, it doesn't cause any problem now with all the windows shut, the pvc vents really are providing a lot of outside air and it is pretty cool air because it is shady under the camper and the intake is not close to the exhaust. I hope I explained it OK, holler back if not. Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:20 AM   #23
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I see said the blind man as he pickup his hammer and saw

Thanks Larry, from the angle in the picture I could not see a hole in the pipe , but with looking a little closer the light came on Once I get cabinet made,then I will play with my A/C . But with Mike's and your pics should make it easier.

Thanks Ken
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:24 PM   #24
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Thanks Larry, from the angle in the picture I could not see a hole in the pipe , but with looking a little closer the light came on Once I get cabinet made,then I will play with my A/C . But with Mike's and your pics should make it easier.

Thanks Ken
Ken

The more I think about Larry's engineering, the more appeal it has to me. First and foremost, it consumes a lot less space than my system. With the intakes directly under the unit, it does make it more compact. Drawing the cooler, shaded air is also a bonus. The only variation that I might make is to get the unit as far off the floor as I could and run the intake pipes along both sides, just like he did. Since hot air rises and cold air drops, having the unit closer to the ceiling will cool better. Either way, it'll still be better than no a/c at all.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:41 PM   #25
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There are a couple advantages to having the AC unit near floor level.

It keeps the AC unit low, keeping the center of gravity low.

The AC weighs about 32 pounds and the floor supports it easily, making it not necessary to add any significant AC support

You don't waste any closet space running pipes up from the floor or the water drain down.
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:32 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
There are a couple advantages to having the AC unit near floor level.

It keeps the AC unit low, keeping the center of gravity low.

The AC weighs about 32 pounds and the floor supports it easily, making it not necessary to add any significant AC support

You don't waste any closet space running pipes up from the floor or the water drain down.
And the downside is cool air sinks. You're liable to have cold ankles and a hot head Maybe a fan to push the cold air higher would be in order...
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:33 PM   #27
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And the downside is cool air sinks. You're liable to have cold ankles and a hot head Maybe a fan to push the cold air higher would be in order...
It helps a little just to open the roof vent and let the rising hot air out.
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