A/C in Fiberglass Trailers - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-12-2006, 08:29 PM   #15
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Trailer: X-treme Lite 160
Posts: 104
I assume that this is the RCS-M1000T. This is the type of hose-equipped unit which we have discussed before and to which I believe Per is referring. This unit is indeed a single-hose design, and I agree with Per that this is a bad idea. The User Manual suggests that use of the hose is optional for cooling operation, but that's nonsensical - to cool, you must remove heat, and it has to go somewhere. They apparently expect you to place it in front of a doorway or open window, but without the exhause hose blowing the hot air somewhere outside the trailer this unit would only work as a dehumidifier.

We have a larger two-hose unit of a different brand at home, used in the living room, and it is quite effective but very bulky and heavy.

By the way, this company's website describes various types of air conditioners, including a "ductless mini split" design which has separate indoor and outdoor units connected by plumbing. This is a standalone version of central A/C, is available from several companies (such as Panasonic), and seems like an interesting approach to me. I'm thinking of the outdoor unit on the tongue or rear bumper, and the indoor unit in an upper cabinet. Has anyone tried this sort of setup?
Why would you need a second hose to pull air into the unit to cool the compressor? Will air not be pulled in through the side grills? I do plan on piping out the exhuast through the floor or a small port out of the side.
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Old 03-13-2006, 12:52 AM   #16
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Name: John
Trailer: 1985 Scamp 16, 2013 VW Tiguan SEL
Posts: 153
Nice installation, Steven. It's close to what I came up with last summer. I used a rubber dish drain tray beneath the A/C to catch the condensate and drip it out the old fridge hatch. I used an AC fan on the floor to blow the cold air upwards, and anoher small box fan to help blow the hot air outside, sandwiched between the back of the unit and the eggshell. I used a cam-lock bargo strap to secure the AC to the shelf.

It all worked great in extreme conditions: Kentucky and Tennessee last August, 95 and 95% every day. Total cost, including used air conditioner and other supplies: $75.

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Old 03-13-2006, 08:40 AM   #17
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Trailer: 1989 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 2,055
If by portable you mean the kind with wheels and hoses that you can put wherever you want, I'd recommend a search. You may be dismayed at the comments. In any case, a unit without both intake and exhaust hoses is something I'd avoid. The concept of only one hose is flawed.
[b]Portable Units: Unfortunately, a lot of really good information and discussions were lost in the hijack. If it was available, you would have been able to read about those with first hand experience with them.

It was a good concept, but it just didn't quite work out. As I recall, the cooling was limited - especially in humid climates.
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Old 03-13-2006, 10:04 AM   #18
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Why would you need a second hose to pull air into the unit to cool the compressor? Will air not be pulled in through the side grills?...
Well, it's not the compressor which needs cooling, but the condensor coil, but the idea is the same - some source of air is needed to dump the heat into. If there is not an intake hose for that air, it will be taken from inside the trailer, and that will be replaced by more hot and humid air from outside through whatever path is available. The better plan is to pull outside air over the condenser, and send it back outside again.

The inside and outside air paths are normally quite separate in any air conditioner, except these one-hose portables; inside air goes over the evaporator to get cool, outside air goes over the condenser to pick up heat. Most people don't have central air conditioning in their house, but do in their car, so I'll use that for illustration - the A/C condenser in a car is that extra radiator ahead of the engine radiator, fed outside air and not exposed to the air inside, while the evaporator is in the heater/fan setup under the dash (along with the heater core), absorbing heat to keep the inside air cool. For another example, in-window units draw air from the outside for the condensor, which is properly considered and nicely shown in Steven's original post to start this topic.

1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
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