A hole at the rear of a Scamp - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-17-2018, 04:48 PM   #1
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
Posts: 19
A hole at the rear of a Scamp

Good day to you all. I am so happy I found this forum. This is my first post and I am hoping for some helpful tidbits.
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1981 13' Scamp from a coworker. I've wanted a Scamp for many years and the opportunity is finally presenting itself. However, I do not want to be too eager and end up regretting my purchase. I am more than willing to try and learn about repairs and updates and to attempt to do them myself. I do not have a shop or a great deal of extra money to spend on repairs, etc.
With that said, I will be looking at the Scamp in a few days. Are there certain things I should be looking out for that would be a cause for me to run the other direction? Additionally, I do know that there is a hole in the fiberglass at the rear of the trailer. It has been this way for a few years now. I have a concern about water damage, as well as damage to the existing fiberglass due to it being exposed and going through many freeze/thaw cycles up here in Alaska. I will attach a picture, which was sent to me by the current owner. The hole in the fiberglass can be seen at the rear just to the right of the bumper.
Thoughts?
Thank you!
Attached Thumbnails
Screen Shot 2018-06-15 at 5.22.06 PM.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:20 PM   #2
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Looks like minor body damage, easy to fix for anyone who does fiberglass but might not look original. Expensive to fix if you take it to a boat shop. But the real question is what damage. if any, is inside? Plumbing, propane and electrical runs along the floor / wall junction. Some more or less depending on layout and options. Unless it was stored in a shed, water damage to the floor in that area seems likely. This requires an on-site inspection.

Check for floor rot everywhere. As well as signs of leaks and neglect. Looks a little low, when was the axle last replaced? And all the typical stuff.. does everything work, tires under 6 years old, bearings done recently, etc.


PS, no need to double post I think
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:21 PM   #3
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On this site in the document center is check list of things to look for.

As for the hole I would get a repair estimate for a couple boat repair shops.
Then decide if wanted to tackle it or not.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Looks like minor body damage, easy to fix for anyone who does fiberglass but might not look original. Expensive to fix if you take it to a boat shop. But the real question is what damage. if any, is inside? Plumbing, propane and electrical runs along the floor / wall junction. Some more or less depending on layout and options. Unless it was stored in a shed, water damage to the floor in that area seems likely. This requires an on-site inspection.

Check for floor rot everywhere. As well as signs of leaks and neglect. Looks a little low, when was the axle last replaced? And all the typical stuff.. does everything work, tires under 6 years old, bearings done recently, etc.


PS, no need to double post I think

Gordon, I had a guy run into my trailer in a parking lot. I went to a RV shop and the preliminary quote is $4,000+. I took it to a boat shot and it cost $1800 to fix. Boat shops are often the cheaper alternative.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:36 PM   #5
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Name: Gordon
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Gordon, I had a guy run into my trailer in a parking lot. I went to a RV shop and the preliminary quote is $4,000+. I took it to a boat shot and it cost $1800 to fix. Boat shops are often the cheaper alternative.

Good point, I kinda lump many RV shops and Boat shops together. Anyone who has to make a living doing a repair like this is going to cost you a fair bit. But anyone who has a reasonable amount of amateur experience with fiberglass could likely make a passable repair for much much less. Depends on how prefect you want it done.

To give OP a frame of reference, Scamp (Evelands) gave me an estimate of $500 to restore the big hole in the side where I once had a water heater. I'm sure it would be much more if done locally. And of course its only an estimate, and Scamp can use the cutout from another trailer saving them a lot.

If you are not picky you can save a lot I would think. I just had an estate from the Toyota body shop to fix a door ding. They would do a lot of work, painting, etc. Instead I got lucky because a Dent Wizard guy was on site and fixed it in five minutes for $40. Its not prefect, you can still see a crease near the door edge, but its not bad either.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
On this site in the document center is check list of things to look for. ...
Yup!... Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Buyers Check List
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:50 PM   #7
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
Posts: 19
gordon2 - thanks for the response. Do you have an idea of how I could best go about checking for floor rot specifically in the area where the hole is there at the backside? I'm attaching a few more photos of the interior to help you see the layout. That back corner has the table/bed bench (I believe).
Also, since that photo was taken (of the outside). The axle was replaced so that the trailer rides higher off of the ground. I'll attach a more recent photo that shows the trailer on a new axle.
Attached Thumbnails
188805_1620701524266_5475591_n.jpg   194469_1620721804773_2941225_o.jpg  

10322733_10204064048305611_5570748192321812656_n.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:54 PM   #8
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by akjruthies View Post
...Do you have an idea of how I could best go about checking for floor rot specifically in the area where the hole is there at the backside? ....
I would say look for softness or sponginess on the floor when you walk on it, or push on it in compartments. If the wood is exposed you might see rot, but don't count on it. You can also probe with a screw driver in compartments and from underneath, but don't use so much force that it would chip away at good wood. And of course the owner might be non too happy if you start making holes in his floor. But if you can make holes easily, thats a bad sign. And of course if you foot goes through the floor to the ground below, that a bad sign also, unless your name is Flintstone.

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Old 06-17-2018, 06:35 PM   #10
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 16, previously Scamp 13
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Also, my understanding is that the fiberglass repair shouldn't be too difficult or expensive.

You also need to check the floor in that rear corner, including underneath the fresh water tank. Make sure it isn't soft and punky from water damage. In fact, check the entire floor, inside cabinets and closets, along all the walls. Floors or sections of floors can be fairly easily replaced, but it is a major project. That is one advantage of the Scamp, having the exposed wood floor (as opposed to one sandwiched in fiberglass), they are easy to examine and easier to repair. Check from both inside and outside.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:41 PM   #11
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Jennifer,

I am curious as to what the series of what looks like bolts in a vertical column between the upper and lower door hinges are for. You may want to check for a week or damaged door.

Jim
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:42 PM   #12
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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Thank you, LyleB.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:47 PM   #13
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Jennifer,

I am curious as to what the series of what looks like bolts in a vertical column between the upper and lower door hinges are for. You may want to check for a week or damaged door.

Jim
Thanks, Scamper Jim. Are you speaking of the bolts on the door itself (between the hinges) or just to the right of the door? I have yet to see the trailer in person, but I will definitely be looking more closely at these bolts and the door. Thank you for noticing it and pointing it out. I need all the help I can get!
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:48 PM   #14
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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Ha! I'm most certainly not looking for a Flinstone experience! Thanks for your advice so far gordon2.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:26 PM   #15
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Name: bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Jennifer,

I am curious as to what the series of what looks like bolts in a vertical column between the upper and lower door hinges are for. You may want to check for a week or damaged door.

Jim
looks like a row of bolts on the door and on the body too between the hinges. A few also forward of the side window. Could the body shape have got distorted at the door opening?
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:33 PM   #16
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
looks like a row of bolts on the door and on the body too between the hinges. A few also forward of the side window. Could the body shape have got distorted at the door opening?
It's definitely something I'll be looking closely at when I see the trailer in person. All of this is new to me and quite honestly, I don't even really know what I'm looking at yet. I wouldn't have thought one thing about any of those bolts and I am grateful you and Scamper Jim have said something about them. This is all a huge learning experience for me.

These Scamps (any small fiberglass trailer) up here in Alaska are terribly difficult to find. I've been looking for one for at least six years. This is a 1981 13' Scamp that my coworker is offering to sell to me. After six years, I really don't want to pass up the opportunity. However, I also don't want to get myself into a trailer full of regrets and money.

*fingers crossed!
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:59 PM   #17
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
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Follow your nose. If it smells wet and moldy it is. If the trailer reeks of air freshner they may be trying to cover up mold smell. Lay under the trailer with a screw driver and push on the floor with a screwdriver if its soft or wet you got problems to deal with. Look closely below windows, under the fridge and at each end depending on how they store the trailer, level, nose up or nose down. Water pooling inside due to a leak and the trailer is not level can cause allot of problems as water will just sit there at the ends a long time before it dries up. Unless the trailer is stored under a shelter the trailer sitting out in Alaska is going to see allot of water.
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Old 06-17-2018, 11:10 PM   #18
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Welcome to FGRV Jennifer. Just another thought of repairing the corner. The rear bench can be easily removed for access to do the glass work. The fresh tank may have to be shifted/removed but that not hard. There are a number of threads of FG repair. From what I can see in the pic, it looks like an easy fix.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:44 AM   #19
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A hole at the rear of a Scamp

The hole looks like it exposes a little of the floor, so it would be worth investigating whether the floor in that corner is sound (along with the rest, as window leaks are a common cause of floor rot). A missing chunk is a bit more work to fix than just a crack.

I'm also seeing some fiberglass damage at the front of the wheel well and lower door corner.

I see a line of bolts along the hinge edge of the door that doesn't belong. What's that about?

Last it's very possible a trailer this age can have frame cracks and need a new axle. The axle alone will set you back $800-1000 with brakes and installation.
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:42 AM   #20
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Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
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inspection of the camper

Jennifer, realistically an almost 40 year old molded fiberglass camper could have quite a few problems if not regularly maintained. When you inspect the camper, use the checklist in the link below and note any problems. The list of problems can get pretty long, and it really helps to develop repair and maintenance skills.

The Fiberglass RV Community

This list is just a start, for example, I notice that it doesn't mention the coupler.

-John

EDIT: Also missing from the list is the axle... Also you would want the propane system thoroughly checked. Also check the body for leaks around door, windows, vents, and other fittings.
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