A hole at the rear of a Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-17-2018, 04:48 PM   #1
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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A hole at the rear of a Scamp

Good day to you all. I am so happy I found this forum. This is my first post and I am hoping for some helpful tidbits.
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1981 13' Scamp from a coworker. I've wanted a Scamp for many years and the opportunity is finally presenting itself. However, I do not want to be too eager and end up regretting my purchase. I am more than willing to try and learn about repairs and updates and to attempt to do them myself. I do not have a shop or a great deal of extra money to spend on repairs, etc.
With that said, I will be looking at the Scamp in a few days. Are there certain things I should be looking out for that would be a cause for me to run the other direction? Additionally, I do know that there is a hole in the fiberglass at the rear of the trailer. It has been this way for a few years now. I have a concern about water damage, as well as damage to the existing fiberglass due to it being exposed and going through many freeze/thaw cycles up here in Alaska. I will attach a picture, which was sent to me by the current owner. The hole in the fiberglass can be seen at the rear just to the right of the bumper.
Thoughts?
Thank you!
Attached Thumbnails
Screen Shot 2018-06-15 at 5.22.06 PM.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:20 PM   #2
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Name: Gordon
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Looks like minor body damage, easy to fix for anyone who does fiberglass but might not look original. Expensive to fix if you take it to a boat shop. But the real question is what damage. if any, is inside? Plumbing, propane and electrical runs along the floor / wall junction. Some more or less depending on layout and options. Unless it was stored in a shed, water damage to the floor in that area seems likely. This requires an on-site inspection.

Check for floor rot everywhere. As well as signs of leaks and neglect. Looks a little low, when was the axle last replaced? And all the typical stuff.. does everything work, tires under 6 years old, bearings done recently, etc.


PS, no need to double post I think
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:21 PM   #3
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On this site in the document center is check list of things to look for.

As for the hole I would get a repair estimate for a couple boat repair shops.
Then decide if wanted to tackle it or not.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Looks like minor body damage, easy to fix for anyone who does fiberglass but might not look original. Expensive to fix if you take it to a boat shop. But the real question is what damage. if any, is inside? Plumbing, propane and electrical runs along the floor / wall junction. Some more or less depending on layout and options. Unless it was stored in a shed, water damage to the floor in that area seems likely. This requires an on-site inspection.

Check for floor rot everywhere. As well as signs of leaks and neglect. Looks a little low, when was the axle last replaced? And all the typical stuff.. does everything work, tires under 6 years old, bearings done recently, etc.


PS, no need to double post I think

Gordon, I had a guy run into my trailer in a parking lot. I went to a RV shop and the preliminary quote is $4,000+. I took it to a boat shot and it cost $1800 to fix. Boat shops are often the cheaper alternative.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:36 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Gordon, I had a guy run into my trailer in a parking lot. I went to a RV shop and the preliminary quote is $4,000+. I took it to a boat shot and it cost $1800 to fix. Boat shops are often the cheaper alternative.

Good point, I kinda lump many RV shops and Boat shops together. Anyone who has to make a living doing a repair like this is going to cost you a fair bit. But anyone who has a reasonable amount of amateur experience with fiberglass could likely make a passable repair for much much less. Depends on how prefect you want it done.

To give OP a frame of reference, Scamp (Evelands) gave me an estimate of $500 to restore the big hole in the side where I once had a water heater. I'm sure it would be much more if done locally. And of course its only an estimate, and Scamp can use the cutout from another trailer saving them a lot.

If you are not picky you can save a lot I would think. I just had an estate from the Toyota body shop to fix a door ding. They would do a lot of work, painting, etc. Instead I got lucky because a Dent Wizard guy was on site and fixed it in five minutes for $40. Its not prefect, you can still see a crease near the door edge, but its not bad either.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
On this site in the document center is check list of things to look for. ...
Yup!... Fiberglass RV - Document Center - Buyers Check List
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:50 PM   #7
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
AK
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gordon2 - thanks for the response. Do you have an idea of how I could best go about checking for floor rot specifically in the area where the hole is there at the backside? I'm attaching a few more photos of the interior to help you see the layout. That back corner has the table/bed bench (I believe).
Also, since that photo was taken (of the outside). The axle was replaced so that the trailer rides higher off of the ground. I'll attach a more recent photo that shows the trailer on a new axle.
Attached Thumbnails
188805_1620701524266_5475591_n.jpg   194469_1620721804773_2941225_o.jpg  

10322733_10204064048305611_5570748192321812656_n.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:54 PM   #8
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
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Thanks!
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by akjruthies View Post
...Do you have an idea of how I could best go about checking for floor rot specifically in the area where the hole is there at the backside? ....
I would say look for softness or sponginess on the floor when you walk on it, or push on it in compartments. If the wood is exposed you might see rot, but don't count on it. You can also probe with a screw driver in compartments and from underneath, but don't use so much force that it would chip away at good wood. And of course the owner might be non too happy if you start making holes in his floor. But if you can make holes easily, thats a bad sign. And of course if you foot goes through the floor to the ground below, that a bad sign also, unless your name is Flintstone.

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Old 06-17-2018, 06:35 PM   #10
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Name: Lyle
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Also, my understanding is that the fiberglass repair shouldn't be too difficult or expensive.

You also need to check the floor in that rear corner, including underneath the fresh water tank. Make sure it isn't soft and punky from water damage. In fact, check the entire floor, inside cabinets and closets, along all the walls. Floors or sections of floors can be fairly easily replaced, but it is a major project. That is one advantage of the Scamp, having the exposed wood floor (as opposed to one sandwiched in fiberglass), they are easy to examine and easier to repair. Check from both inside and outside.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:41 PM   #11
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Jennifer,

I am curious as to what the series of what looks like bolts in a vertical column between the upper and lower door hinges are for. You may want to check for a week or damaged door.

Jim
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:42 PM   #12
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
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Thank you, LyleB.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:47 PM   #13
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
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Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Jennifer,

I am curious as to what the series of what looks like bolts in a vertical column between the upper and lower door hinges are for. You may want to check for a week or damaged door.

Jim
Thanks, Scamper Jim. Are you speaking of the bolts on the door itself (between the hinges) or just to the right of the door? I have yet to see the trailer in person, but I will definitely be looking more closely at these bolts and the door. Thank you for noticing it and pointing it out. I need all the help I can get!
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:48 PM   #14
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: 1982 13' Scamp
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Ha! I'm most certainly not looking for a Flinstone experience! Thanks for your advice so far gordon2.
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