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11-19-2012, 09:56 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew78
i'm so excited!!
i hit the jackpot today, not the lotto but pretty closes. I found a frame!!!
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I love it when a plan comes together
Post pictures and let us know about challenges that you run into. Others may benefit by your experiences.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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11-19-2012, 10:24 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: don
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT-13
Florida
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew78
i'm so excited!!
i hit the jackpot today, not the lotto but pretty closes. I found a frame!!!
it is off a rockwood freedom pop up trailer that had the roof crushed by a tree.
frame is very close, will need some minor cuts put nothing major. the length is perfect and the axle is in the exact same spot. and the bonus is it has brakes. stripped the whole trailer in about three hours. lots of extra goodies.
i can't wait to get uhaul off the ground,
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Very Excellent!!!
Hope your fastener points line up for you without too much extra fabrication but it will sure beat starting from scratch.
__________________
don '85 CT-13 PEACE be with you!
"Sometimes the hunt is better than the catch"
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11-19-2012, 10:31 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: Bigfoot 17 ft (15B17G)
Posts: 150
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Giddy up
Well done, looking forward to hearing how this plays out!
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11-19-2012, 10:47 PM
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#24
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Moderator
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,436
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How great for you that a new frame fell into your lap! (metaphorically speaking, of course !!) Keep the pics of this project coming!
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11-19-2012, 11:32 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Glad to hear that you found a frame- hope the "minor cuts" don't amount to much!
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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12-01-2012, 08:33 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
Posts: 144
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I brought home my new frame tonight, tows perfectly. (pictures to be posted shortly)
the uhaul were mount to the frames with bolts. between the frame and the body are anti vibration disc. THe new fram needs long strips as i'm going to do the whole frame. does anybody has any suggestions on what to use? it would need to be about 1" Wide. i was thinking something that came in a roll, I could glue on, but could also by something and cut it in strips.
asking the experts for help, thats you guys
thanks
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12-01-2012, 09:01 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew78
I brought home my new frame tonight, tows perfectly. (pictures to be posted shortly)
the uhaul were mount to the frames with bolts. between the frame and the body are anti vibration disc. THe new fram needs long strips as i'm going to do the whole frame. does anybody has any suggestions on what to use? it would need to be about 1" Wide. i was thinking something that came in a roll, I could glue on, but could also by something and cut it in strips.
asking the experts for help, thats you guys
thanks
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Andrew, are you asking what to use in place of the rubber washers? One place to get rubber sheet fairly cheaply is to buy heavy truck mud flaps. They sell them at automotive stores and truck stop supply places.
Another option is off the internet, like these places:
Sheet Rubber Prices, Availability - Updated Daily
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Rubber%20...hick/00093259/
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12-01-2012, 12:09 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
Posts: 144
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sorry i forgot t omention what i was replacing, yes i'm replacing the rubber disc. i never thought of mud flaps. i will check those websites as well
thanks for ideas
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12-01-2012, 12:12 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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I use rubber belting for applications like this.
I've got some that was thrown away at the local mill...if one's in farm country, farmers go through quite a bit of it, too. One can also buy small quantities online. Most is wider than an inch, but can of course be cut with a utility knife
6" 3 Ply Thresher, Conveyor, Baler Belting ~ Priced Per Foot
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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12-01-2012, 12:19 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Baler belt was going to be my suggestion. It will outlast mudflaps, even used belting will, IMHO.
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12-01-2012, 12:42 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Thank goodness for farmers.
I agree this rubberized belting would also work. All you need to do is to spread the load slightly in the vicinity of the body to frame bolt.
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12-01-2012, 06:29 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: Cardinal (Restoring)
Posts: 245
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Welcome to the site Andrew. It is so exciting for us all to watch a project in progress. As was said previously, any thing you need help with or answers too, you will find here. Some of the most knowledgable people I have ever encountered. Dont get discouraged, you will have an amazing RV when you are finished. Just take it slow and easy. Keep the photos coming and good luck from California, USA
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03-07-2013, 09:04 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
Posts: 144
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so its been a while since i have done anything on my trailer. my wife would rather have her car in our garage over the winter than the trailer.
I have finished the frame, and about to attach the shell to the frame. just wanted to know what people thought is the best way to attach the two together?
the frame is not all a round tube frame, some of it is a square frame and u-channel.
i was thinking just using metal screws instead of bolts, any thoughts or comments are always welcome on what i should do
thanks
andrew
i promise to post more pictures tonight
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03-07-2013, 10:13 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1982 16 ft
Posts: 362
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I replaced the Fiber Stream 5/16" carriage bolts with stainless steel elevator bolts, lock washers, and nuts. This worked very well for me. Elevator bolts are essentially carriage bolts with a large, flat, 1" diameter head.
Vic
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03-07-2013, 10:20 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Benz
I replaced the Fiber Stream 5/16" carriage bolts with stainless steel elevator bolts, lock washers, and nuts. This worked very well for me. Elevator bolts are essentially carriage bolts with a large, flat, 1" diameter head.
Vic
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+1 on elevator bolts.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...GuTYyAGXgYGQCA
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03-07-2013, 10:24 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Reid
Trailer: 1979 Trillium 4500
Oregon
Posts: 208
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Trillium bodies are bolted through the frame with a large washer on the inside of the body and a washer, lock washer and nut on the outside. I would think that a bolt would be more secure, less likely to come loose, and better able to be cinched tight than a screw. my 2 cents worth.
Reid
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03-07-2013, 10:46 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
Posts: 144
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i was thinking bolts but when i took apart a popup trailer for the frame it was just screwed together.
bolts it is then
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03-07-2013, 11:27 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I had the bolts on my trailer installed with the nut on the inside. That way rust would be less of a problem. It almost made putting the porta-potty in it's garage impossible. I had to cut the bolt off flush with the nut.
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03-07-2013, 11:34 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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when I replaced the rusted away original elevator bolts in the floor of our Uhaul I used 5/16 bolts instead of the original 1/4" size. And instead of elevator bolts I used a grade 5 bolt with a large fender washer against the floor, flat washer and lock washer against the frame.
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03-07-2013, 01:41 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
Posts: 232
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Use bolts. At some point someone will want to unscrew things again.
I used stainless steel bolts, but I ran into problems with metal seizing. See:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-up-51193.html
Switched to galvanized. Due to cost and availability issues, I ended up using regular hex bolt heads and a large fender washer.
__________________
Cheers
--Fred and Natalie
1978 Trillium 4500 "Bernerwagon"
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