A Project Begins - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-04-2003, 03:36 PM   #29
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A Project Begins

Reply to Pat G,

The high gloss reduces after about two days to a low luster. I just had to take pics of the fresh look after seeing so much dull filler disappear.

Have fun with your glass work. The group following this site have much to offer in solid advice, and they even do it with a sense of humor. Good luck, Fx.
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Old 04-21-2003, 02:16 PM   #30
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Interior wall carpet problem

:) Hey Frank,
Good work on the remodle looks great. We have a mold problem in
our 13' Scamp (I believe it to be just like your scamp) and I think
it is due rain when the windows were left open but moisture must
have gotten behind the carpeted walls and now we have a mold problem and it smells. Is is possible to take out the carpet and insullation replace the insullation and put up wood wall paneling. or will this open a bigger can of worms. We would like to keep the scamp and I
believe that we might be able to handlea job like this.
I would like a small break down of what we need to do or things
we should know about before we start!!! Like how to figure sq ft. how do we attach the panel. If you could or know someone who will Please let me know.
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Old 04-22-2003, 05:19 AM   #31
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Dawn, and the Moldy-MoldedFG

Dawn,

I would try a simple approach first, before trying to fit sheet paneling to the multiple complex curves of our molded type trailers.

If you have the teddybear fur type of interior "carpet", this is a type of marine spun polyethelene fiber. It is not backed, and is only press formed into flat form during manufacture. It will hold various forms of dirt and bacteria, but its' material composition will not normally allow for this debris to bond. I would first try cleaning the carpet by using a "Quat" based sanitizer mixed with water. You should be able to obtain this from any bar and restaurant supply house. Tell them you want a liquid third sink rinse "QUAT" based sanitizer. If this type of supply house is not available, a pool supply will have this sanitizer in a more concentrated form that they use in pool water treatment.

The label should list Quaterinary .........Chloride, as one of the first active ingredients on the label from either source.

You want a mixture of no more than one ounce per gallon of water for you application. I would take a garden type pump sprayer, mix my sanitizer with water, and spray all surface areas wet. Allow to set for approx 15 minutes. Then using a rental carpet extractor cleaner with the upholstery cleaning hand wand and suction hose, use the same sanitizer water mix and reapply to all carpet surfaces while sucking dry the surface with the extractor recovery hand wand. When this work is done put a portable dehumidifier inside closed trailer and allow it to run for at least 24 hours. The foil backed insulation that Scamp used since the mid 80's is merely a layer of foil against the fiberglass, a bonded layer of air-cell insulation, and a layer of foil against the back of carpet. The seams of this are taped with aluminum foil and in total should be watertight.

I believe that your mold is retained within the carpet surface and you can kill it with the sanitizer, and remove the remains with the extractor. Good luck, Fx.
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Old 04-22-2003, 09:44 AM   #32
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Thank you

Thanks Frank,

I will defininatly try that. I have a friend with a pool cleaning business.
I'll let you know how it goes.

Dawn
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:44 PM   #33
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' date='Oct 22 2002, 05:17 AM' post='133818']
With all the interior and flooring out work on the bent frame member was finished. Simple hydraulic jack and chain procedure until original vertical alignment was held. Then wire brush all frame members of loose scale, tedious, and recoat with RustOleum.
As previously stated all flooring materials coated with fiberglass layer on bottom side. Then first 3/8 ply was attached to frame with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners. Next second layer of 3/8 ply was attached to first, (overlapping seams,) with mixture of thickened resin and mechanical fasteners. All edges were liberally coated with resin and all seams for both layers were glass/resin taped. this brought the new sub-floor up to the original 3/4 thickness of particle board. The final flooring material will be parquet with strip edges so main floor area was not top coated with resin, except for edges and at door entry area. More to follow, thanks for your followups, Fx.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3db5179341273FRAME-FLOOR gif.gif/>
What do you mean by "mechanical fastners"? Clamps that are later removed? Please enlighten. Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:01 PM   #34
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Then first 3/8 ply was attached to frame with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners. Next second layer of 3/8 ply was attached to first, (overlapping seams,) with mixture of thickened resin and mechanical fasteners.
Quote:
What do you mean by "mechanical fastners"? Clamps that are later removed? Please enlighten. Thanks.
[b]Glued and Screwed by another name...
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:32 PM   #35
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[b]Glued and Screwed by another name...
I know this one.....thanks to my ex-cop friend....glued, screwed and TATTOOED!!!
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