Maintenance & Restoration

Legacy Posts · 10-30-2002, 12:41 AM

Frank you must be as tenacious as my Jack Russel! Keep up the good work.

Legacy Posts · 10-30-2002, 04:32 PM

Hi Frank,
It's fun to see pictures of a Scamp stripped. Now I know what mine must look like under all that carpet, etc. What floor plan will you have when your finished? Back dinette? Side dinette? Bathroom? I couldn't quite make out from your interior photos what the original configuration was.

You're doing a great job reporting your progress. Kinda like Bob Villa's "This Old House".

Keep up the great effort!

Legacy Posts · 10-30-2002, 05:44 PM

Say Frank,
As long as you're stripped down how's about putting in a push out dinette like the big boys have? Just think of the room you'd have.

Sure Janifer I can be your friend, but I won't sell the Burro. I have become too attached to it now.

Legacy Posts · 10-31-2002, 02:48 PM

The original Scamp floor plan is rear dinette with side closet. When I finish the side closet will have the Scamp Toilet/Shower assembly in place. Nothing unusual about mine except that I kinow each and every seam, spider and frame member more intmately than necessary.

Now Pete, I thought we acquired these little wonders to escape the mines bigger than yours syndrome, When this possibility strikes my fertile brain, I fall back on a consversation overheard at a campground between owners of two "A" type diesel pushers, each was claiming bragging rights about their grey water holding tank capacity. Lifes to short, let's enjoy the outdoors togeather.Fx.

Legacy Posts · 02-02-2003, 12:24 PM

With the onset of Michigan's winter I have been having some fun with the interior components. The original interior condition of my trailer had been modified by the previous owners accident. The laws of physics will not be denied, they had taken an apartment refrigerator and placed it loosely in the cabinet designed for the factory refer. The only mounting point used was to fasten molding around the outer corners to keep it from falling out onto the floor. when the trailer was struck in the drivers side rear corner the energy path took the refridgerator and shot it upwards and forward breaking the front of the cabinets glass work, breaking the stove out of its' mounting points and dislocating the furnace. The rear wall, towards the seating area, of the cabinet was shattered inward by the movement of the rear seat as it pushed forward. The refirdgerator was jammed and twisted in such a fashion it was only after removing the cabinet from wall that it could be extracted.

I am attaching phots of the "as found", "the fun of glass" and a last set that will probably need a second messasge, file size to send.

All work was easily done with glass mat on inside, some strategic reinforcement with 1/4" plywood and glass on inside in structural areas, and the fill of original stove top and blend same into work surface of original cabinet. I plan on installing at a later point a two burner stove top replacing the destroyed three burner unit thus freeing more countertop for more work surface.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e3d620a640d0CABINET DAM-RPR.gif/> Keep your powder dry, Fx.

Legacy Posts · 02-02-2003, 12:31 PM

This upload will show the finished cabinet, sans doors. After glass work was finished, two coats of Interlux white epoxy primer was applied, then two coats of Interlux "Brightsides Polyeurthane" in Hattaras off-white was applied as finsih color. The method of application was sanding with 320 grit between all applications, and using the foam roller with brush tipping method of painting. This results in a very nice smooth surface. The final step after installation is to rub out with very mild polishing compound for any surface problems. Fx.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e3d63de96b0fCABINET PAINTED.gif/>

Legacy Posts · 02-02-2003, 01:33 PM

Fantastic job, it looks brand new.

Legacy Posts · 02-03-2003, 05:18 PM

:wave
Frank, wow, you could shave in those counters. I know nothing about fiberglass but I am about to learn. Your pictures makes me believe the impossible will take just a little longer.:)

Thank you for sharing your pictures.

Legacy Posts · 02-04-2003, 03:36 PM

Reply to Pat G,

The high gloss reduces after about two days to a low luster. I just had to take pics of the fresh look after seeing so much dull filler disappear.

Have fun with your glass work. The group following this site have much to offer in solid advice, and they even do it with a sense of humor. Good luck, Fx.

Legacy Posts · 04-21-2003, 01:16 PM

:) Hey Frank,
Good work on the remodle looks great. We have a mold problem in
our 13' Scamp (I believe it to be just like your scamp) and I think
it is due rain when the windows were left open but moisture must
have gotten behind the carpeted walls and now we have a mold problem and it smells. Is is possible to take out the carpet and insullation replace the insullation and put up wood wall paneling. or will this open a bigger can of worms. We would like to keep the scamp and I
believe that we might be able to handlea job like this.
I would like a small break down of what we need to do or things
we should know about before we start!!! Like how to figure sq ft. how do we attach the panel. If you could or know someone who will Please let me know.

Legacy Posts · 04-22-2003, 04:19 AM

Dawn,

I would try a simple approach first, before trying to fit sheet paneling to the multiple complex curves of our molded type trailers.

If you have the teddybear fur type of interior "carpet", this is a type of marine spun polyethelene fiber. It is not backed, and is only press formed into flat form during manufacture. It will hold various forms of dirt and bacteria, but its' material composition will not normally allow for this debris to bond. I would first try cleaning the carpet by using a "Quat" based sanitizer mixed with water. You should be able to obtain this from any bar and restaurant supply house. Tell them you want a liquid third sink rinse "QUAT" based sanitizer. If this type of supply house is not available, a pool supply will have this sanitizer in a more concentrated form that they use in pool water treatment.

The label should list Quaterinary .........Chloride, as one of the first active ingredients on the label from either source.

You want a mixture of no more than one ounce per gallon of water for you application. I would take a garden type pump sprayer, mix my sanitizer with water, and spray all surface areas wet. Allow to set for approx 15 minutes. Then using a rental carpet extractor cleaner with the upholstery cleaning hand wand and suction hose, use the same sanitizer water mix and reapply to all carpet surfaces while sucking dry the surface with the extractor recovery hand wand. When this work is done put a portable dehumidifier inside closed trailer and allow it to run for at least 24 hours. The foil backed insulation that Scamp used since the mid 80's is merely a layer of foil against the fiberglass, a bonded layer of air-cell insulation, and a layer of foil against the back of carpet. The seams of this are taped with aluminum foil and in total should be watertight.

I believe that your mold is retained within the carpet surface and you can kill it with the sanitizer, and remove the remains with the extractor. Good luck, Fx.

Legacy Posts · 04-22-2003, 08:44 AM

Thanks Frank,

I will defininatly try that. I have a friend with a pool cleaning business.
I'll let you know how it goes.

Dawn

Kristi Warner · 09-18-2006, 06:44 PM

Quote:

' date='Oct 22 2002, 05:17 AM' post='133818']
With all the interior and flooring out work on the bent frame member was finished. Simple hydraulic jack and chain procedure until original vertical alignment was held. Then wire brush all frame members of loose scale, tedious, and recoat with RustOleum.
As previously stated all flooring materials coated with fiberglass layer on bottom side. Then first 3/8 ply was attached to frame with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners. Next second layer of 3/8 ply was attached to first, (overlapping seams,) with mixture of thickened resin and mechanical fasteners. All edges were liberally coated with resin and all seams for both layers were glass/resin taped. this brought the new sub-floor up to the original 3/4 thickness of particle board. The final flooring material will be parquet with strip edges so main floor area was not top coated with resin, except for edges and at door entry area. More to follow, thanks for your followups, Fx.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3db5179341273FRAME-FLOOR gif.gif/>

What do you mean by "mechanical fastners"? Clamps that are later removed? Please enlighten. Thanks.

**Frederick L. Simson** · 09-18-2006, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Then first 3/8 ply was attached to frame with construction adhesive and mechanical fasteners. Next second layer of 3/8 ply was attached to first, (overlapping seams,) with mixture of thickened resin and mechanical fasteners.

Quote:

What do you mean by "mechanical fastners"? Clamps that are later removed? Please enlighten. Thanks.

[b]Glued and Screwed by another name...