AC installation (hidden) - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-23-2015, 09:48 AM   #71
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
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I have also been folowing this post. My $.02 worth. The lower floor in the area under the front bech seat is a independant piece of plywood. It is not glassed in and is held in place with screws and adhesive sealant to metal angles. There is also a piece of angle iron that runs under and across the floor section for support.
To get more airflow you could just cut out pieces of the floor in this area. If it does not help you can just replace the complete section of floor with new wood.
I think I would box off the rear area of the AC with foam to the front metal wall and cut out the floor in that area. I know hot air rises but with the bigger opening the A/C fan should be able to breath and get rid of the hot air. You could use holes in the metal side walls for make up air. You could make duct work or a baffle under the trailer to pick up the fresh make up air at the rear outer edge of the frame boxed area.
I hope this makes since to you. I'm just letting you know floor replacement in this area is very easy if it does not work out. The upper floor area repair is much more involved.
Eddie
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:48 AM   #72
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Name: Darral
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Tennessee
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Eric, if it aint broke, dont fix it.... out of site out of mind comes to thought here.

You've been very patient working through this and I admire you for that. So with that said, dont think I was suggesting you "SHOULD" be testing your ac bay's temp. It's already BEEN tested and again, you have the "proof".

Here's a situation I ran into with my Scamp's Coleman roof-mount A/C! When I bought my Scamp and ran the a/c, the thermostat would kick off and stay off 10+ min and it would get "humid" in my Scamp before kicking on again. Now, some have suggested to "drain the water" which possibly would have worked ALTHOUGH, when it's humid like now, it runs off my Scamp like a waterfall. People in "dry" heat have NO idea what we're talking about here .

I brought up about my comfort in our Scampers@Yahoogroups.com. Someone there pointed me to the Casita forum. A guy had "cut" into his electrical, installed a relay that's activated by a Hunter digital thermostat mounted at the bed. WOWWWWW... To make a long story short, I can control the temp of my Scamp winter OR summer now within 1 deg if desired. The Hunter has a built-in "delay" so it's a 3:40 min before the unit will cycle on again to protect the compressor. But the humidity is GONE and it's more comfortable now than my bedroom! My Coleman has a heat strip and it can be controlled the same way...just flip the Hunter on "heat".

Now here was my dilemma with THIS installation:
WHERE it's mounted (the same with Scamp's furnaces at the end of the kitchen cabinet), it was a total failure at the first. An INTERNAL (yes internal) miniature fan IN the thermostat fixed it instantly and it's been in use about 5 yrs now...NO problems. And Eric that's why I can appreciate your super effort for your design.

And as I feel with Carl's problem? My friends: "air flow" is EVERYTHING....
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:51 AM   #73
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Name: Eric
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Darral, I hear you, but you have to realize I am an engineer by training. So that data driven mentality and the need to continuously tinker is always present (even when it makes absolutely no common sense! )

I agree air flow is key to this design and likely our key problem to overcome with Gary. I also have to remind myself to be humble because many times I have been "convinced" I knew the answer and then someone presents one more fact (like a fan is backwards) and I become a lot less "convinced".

Thank you for your kind words. I enjoy a challenge. Thanks for chiming in regularly with your thoughts. I always think 2 brains are better than 1.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:57 AM   #74
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Name: Eric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
To get more airflow you could just cut out pieces of the floor in this area. If it does not help you can just replace the complete section of floor with new wood.
[...]
You could make duct work or a baffle under the trailer to pick up the fresh make up air at the rear outer edge of the frame boxed area.
Eddie, thanks for chiming in and adding a good thought. Your point is valid. However, I didn't do it because I wanted to keep the air intake and exhaust as far apart as possible and I didn't want anything more than necessary sticking down from the trailer. Those were my choices, but someone else may take your ideas and make a good use of them.

I agree with the section of floor being relatively easy to replace. That was a key consideration for me also. I knew I might screw up the drainage of the AC and if so, it wasn't going to be terrible to fix my floor.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:55 AM   #75
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
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I have an A/C sitting in the floor of a S-13 looking for the outcome of this thread before I install it. I'm thing of taking my siding brake and making a duct for the take up air. The duct would attach to the side metal wall (4" hole) and bottom of the upper floor and would not hang lower than the frame. I would pick up air at the rear outer corners of the boxed frame area. I plan to put an intake on each side and they should be about a foot away from the exhaust on either side of the unit.
I'm still watching this thread before I start cutting. Good luck.
Eddie
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:48 PM   #76
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California
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Well, Iput the ac unit back in the scamp for some testing. Temp was 85 low humidity outside. Just used towels to fill in around the front. The thing has been running for 2 hours and not getting hot on top like before. Also not blowing warm air like before. Granted not super hot outside, but, it's working. The only changes I made were retaping the box, and cutting the louvers out of the exhaust vent to allow no restriction in exhaust airflow. I'm not even running intake fan. I don't understand. It's supposed to reach the high 90's early next week. That will be a better test. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll keep running it daily and post results.
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:52 AM   #77
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Name: Eric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryG View Post
Well, Iput the ac unit back in the scamp for some testing. Temp was 85 low humidity outside. Just used towels to fill in around the front. The thing has been running for 2 hours and not getting hot on top like before. Also not blowing warm air like before. Granted not super hot outside, but, it's working. The only changes I made were retaping the box, and cutting the louvers out of the exhaust vent to allow no restriction in exhaust airflow. I'm not even running intake fan. I don't understand. It's supposed to reach the high 90's early next week. That will be a better test. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll keep running it daily and post results.
Gary, good news!

2 possibilities on why it is better:
1. My guess is that you have a borderline system for airflow and the cooler temperatures and reduced blockage/louvers were just enough to help it work.
2. Your taping fixed a leak and it was actually recirculating hot air before and you fixed that.

I agree that you should keep testing and see what it does.
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:19 AM   #78
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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As an aside I got my mini-split running last night and it works really well.
The airhandler in the rear with the sweep cools the trailer quickly and is very quiet.
The outside unit also is very quiet with NO vibration into the trailer and very low fan noise.




The remote sets the temp and can be located anywhere in the trailer and can be the thermostat.
Since this is a heat pump it should take care of the winter fairly well too!
It has a dehumidifier function that will dry the air without running the temps so low.
All in all I am very happy with how this is working out. The cost for the unit on sale was $500. Less than the roof top unit and the weight stays low.
This unit is quieter than the swing compressor refrigerator.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:18 AM   #79
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Name: RogerDat
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Does that mini-split have a brand name? Link would be even better. I have been following this thread with great interest.

Waiting to find out how it all works out. Does seem that air flow is the critical thing. Walking past a window AC unit the amount of hot air coming off of it is impressive.

If you were dealing with a thermal cut off then getting even a small amount, say a couple of degrees under that cut off limit would keep the compressor running. That would be my concern, that the interior temp is close enough to the limit that on a hot day it would bump over and start cutting off the compressor.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:28 AM   #80
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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You're exactly right Roger. It's called "running at the threshold". That's why I suggested placing remote temp sensors (you can get them at Walmart 10-15$) in the a/c's compartment. If Gary's is running fine at 85 deg, then gets 1000 miles from home with 95 and it starts shutting off again, it's too late. And...as you say, it COULD be running that close.

Another interesting scenario would be to have a speed control on the 12v fan. Dial it down and watch the temp in the compartment. IF the compressor shuts off again, you will then know the "threshold" at the max temp.

I'm like Eric...i'm a "test" freak and LOVE to experiment. Drives my wife crazy sometimes though.

I too would like to know more about the "split" unit. I would love to know the weight and compare it to my 96 lb 9200 BTU Coleman Polar Cub. The downside I see internally is the amount of space it takes...but at least it's at the top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Does that mini-split have a brand name? Link would be even better. I have been following this thread with great interest.

Waiting to find out how it all works out. Does seem that air flow is the critical thing. Walking past a window AC unit the amount of hot air coming off of it is impressive.

If you were dealing with a thermal cut off then getting even a small amount, say a couple of degrees under that cut off limit would keep the compressor running. That would be my concern, that the interior temp is close enough to the limit that on a hot day it would bump over and start cutting off the compressor.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:40 AM   #81
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Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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The unit is a Comfort Aire DVH 09 9000 BTU 3/4 ton.



I got mine on sale from Johnstone Supply. Of course we do a good bit of business since we do industrial maintenance.

There are others, but I think I got a good bargain on this one and it is a heat pump as well.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:59 AM   #82
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Name: Darral
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About 80 lbs total. Not bad!

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The unit is a Comfort Aire DVH 09 9000 BTU 3/4 ton.

I got mine on sale from Johnstone Supply. Of course we do a good bit of business since we do industrial maintenance.

There are others, but I think I got a good bargain on this one and it is a heat pump as well.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:27 PM   #83
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Name: Gary
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Question

What is this vent in the bottom of my ac for
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:06 AM   #84
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California
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Eric, ran another test today. Temp in the mid 90's, humidity in the 40's. Ran unit for at least 2 hrs. Seems to be working ok. Top of unit is cool. Cold air blowing. Compressor not cycling on and off like it was. I wish I could pinpoint what was causing my problem. All I did was retape the box and retaped it to ac. Also reattached the flexible ducting from ac to exhaust vent. Guess there could have been a leak in one of those places. Still going to run it in the heat we're having. I have to pull it out 1 more time to install drip pan. That's why I posted the pic. Of that vent on the bottom of the ac. I don't want to block it if it supplies airflow for something. Thanks again for all your help. Darral too. I'll keep you posted. Gary
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