Access Doors in Rear of Boler1300 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:37 PM   #1
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Access Doors in Rear of Boler1300

I'm sure this has been done but I would like to know:
Is there substantial weakening of the whole shell of the camper?
I already have a slight sag in the rear corners of the floor and am worried that any cutting of the walls will do more harm the anything.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:30 PM   #2
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Smile Rear Door .

I saw a Boler at the Winnipeg , St Malo meet last year . A guy had put a door in the back so that he could take his Harley Davidson with him on his travels, He did say what he had done , but I can't remember what he'd said , and it was still nice inside . So it can be done .
Jim Rayner .
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:21 PM   #3
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Are you talking about a large cargo door as described in the previous post or hatches to access the under-seat storage in the dinette?

The former would require some reinforcing of the shell. The latter, probably not, except I would want to investigate and correct the cause of the sagging you observed. Could be a rotten floor, cracked frame,...
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:11 AM   #4
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If it is like a small storage access door as long as you make a proper frame for it I see no reason that it should compromise the shell integrity, but the key word is proper (adequate support secured to the shell by rivets, bolts, heavy duty epoxy or a combination there of)...
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:43 AM   #5
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OMG...I should have specified that it was just access doors to get into the cubbies under dinette seats.
Do you know of anyone who has done this? Did a search and didn't find to much related.
Is there too much of a curve in that part of the shell that would hamper the installation/operation/seal?
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:01 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Gerry View Post
OMG...I should have specified that it was just access doors to get into the cubbies under dinette seats.
Do you know of anyone who has done this? Did a search and didn't find to much related.
Is there too much of a curve in that part of the shell that would hamper the installation/operation/seal?
Gerry, access doors won't hurt the shell at all. You will need to find a flat surface to cut them in and that will determine the size you can use. Piece of cake . I've found items like that on Ebay a lot cheaper than RV suppliers.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:07 AM   #7
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Thanks Dave, I have an RV dealer who may have one just kicking around and will sell me real cheap.
Again will have to justifie it as an improvement to the wife to get it to happen.
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Old 02-25-2017, 09:29 AM   #8
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Rear access door? Been there, done that.

Gerry,

I decided to do that type of modification last summer on my '83 Scamp due to the bed being permanently set up. I installed the door to gain access to the 17 inches of space that I couldn’t otherwise get to behind the rollout, under-bed, slide-out drawer.

I didn’t want to lose the spare tire mounted at the rear, so I dealt with that also.

Here are some pics of the project. I will post more information one of these days about this project, as well as some others I did last summer, if anyone is interested.

That's a nice advantage of having an early fg model, after making that first large, heart-stopping cut in the fiberglass for your first project, there is nothing to it and you don't give it a second thought on the next project.

My motto is: If a project doesn’t involve some cutting, drilling, filling and reglassing of the fiberglass, it’s not really a modification, just tinkering!
Attached Thumbnails
Camper rear access door.jpg   Scamp 003.jpg  

Scamp 001.jpg   Scamp 002.jpg  

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Old 02-26-2017, 04:06 AM   #9
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Jim, That's kinda cool but a bit more drastic then I want to get.
I am going to just put doors on the sides of camper getting into the cubbies.
We leave our bed made up 100% of the the time and while traveling we put big items such as 2 lounge chairs and a fiberglass table, for outdoor kitchen, under the Bed/Table.
Thinking on one side cubbie, will put things like small table top grill, water jugs, extra small propane bottles and more and the other maybe all the camp/set up stuff like tire chocks, jack cranks, extra boards, water hose, extra electrical wires.
All this stuff is now in the cubbies under front cubbie and I am sure we could find more use for these easier access spaces.
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:35 AM   #10
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I'm interested in doing the same on my Trillium. This thread is helpful: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ors-46237.html
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Old 03-02-2017, 12:49 PM   #11
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I'm interested in doing the same on my Trillium. This thread is helpful: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ors-46237.html
Well, just had a chance to wade through the knee deep snow to get to the Boler and upon messuring just where these outside doors could go between the wheel wells and the back side markers the area is so small I have decided against doing the whole project.
At best maybe a 12X14 inch door would work by the time the a frame is made inside.
I may just cut the inside of dinette benches so I can get into them from under bed.
Alot cheaper when I can build the doors myself and not have to worry about them being weather tight.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:41 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Scamper Jim View Post
Gerry,



I decided to do that type of modification last summer on my '83 Scamp due to the bed being permanently set up. I installed the door to gain access to the 17 inches of space that I couldn’t otherwise get to behind the rollout, under-bed, slide-out drawer.



I didn’t want to lose the spare tire mounted at the rear, so I dealt with that also.



Here are some pics of the project. I will post more information one of these days about this project, as well as some others I did last summer, if anyone is interested.



That's a nice advantage of having an early fg model, after making that first large, heart-stopping cut in the fiberglass for your first project, there is nothing to it and you don't give it a second thought on the next project.



My motto is: If a project doesn’t involve some cutting, drilling, filling and reglassing of the fiberglass, it’s not really a modification, just tinkering!
Jim, did you fabricate that tire mount? Love that idea!



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Old 06-07-2017, 03:50 AM   #13
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Courtney, I'm sure Jim will get back to you but I had the same tire mount on a larger trailer and I have seen them in my dealers cataloge
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:14 PM   #14
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Yup, I made it!

Hi Courtney,

I did fabricate the tire mount myself, and after seeing your post, I took a couple more pics of the project and have posted more information about it in a new thread entitled "Rear Access Door with Folding Tire Mount".

Thanks for your interest.

Jim
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:34 PM   #15
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Thank you, Jim! So, that's clamped around the "L" shaped bumper? Or is your bumper modified?


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Old 06-08-2017, 09:12 PM   #16
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Courtney,

Yes, it is clamped around the standard "L" bumper. The steel is thick enough, the bolts tight enough in the holes that nothing shifts. If it looks like it is going to give me any trouble, I will just weld it to the bumper.

The top bolt is a critical part of the holder. Without it, the weight of the tire would probably twist the mounting and besides, there would be no way of securing the holder in an upright position. Just trying to lock it in position with a pin down at the base would not work for long as the hole in the mild steel would just get enlarged with all the vibration and stress and the tire would shake around even more. It has to be secured at the top to minimize movement.

The top bolt is not one of the original Scamp tire mounting bolts. You can see those in the second photo that shows two gray spots just below the finger latch. Those are the original bold holes that have been glassed in and sanded. I drilled and raised the new securing bolt about 6 inches or so higher. Btw, when drilling the new hole, I found there is a thin steel plate that I hit and had to drill through. No problem, but was surprised to find out one was there.

Jim
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Old 06-08-2017, 09:23 PM   #17
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I just added a rear access door to my Trillium this spring.
To get the spare out of the way, it is now mounted under the trailer, behind the axle.
My initial plan was to install a tire winch like many pickup trucks and SUVs now have, but I just used a big bolt, through a bracket I made to support the spare. If I need the spare, I simply need to remove the nut (it is under the rear bed in the trailer, easily accessible but otherwise out of sight) and the spare will drop.
The ground clearance is about the same as my black water tank, which is about an inch lower than my axle. The spare hangs above the departure angle (angle from bottom of tires to back bumper), even with a flat tire.
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