Adding a 12V Water Pump - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2013, 05:30 PM   #1
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Question Adding a 12V Water Pump

Donna may know the answer to this, but is there a thread on replacing the hand pump with a 12V electric pump.

What kind of faucets does everyone use. Can you still use the rocket pump exterior and just gut it or do you use something else. I want to keep my 80 scamp as close to "original-Looking" as possible.

If no threads, I am open to suggestions etc stories etc.

Thanks. . jimbo
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:03 PM   #2
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Well, there are lots of threads about replacing pumps. And a number of members swap out low rise faucets for something much taller. Depending on the brand of trailer and model of faucet, you may be able to just swap out the spout. I replaced the faucet in my Scamp (the original looked like something in a home bathroom) to a hi-res paddle handle faucet and I love it.

Jimbo, this is only my humble opinion, but don't worry about being "original." Rehab your trailer to suite your needs. I can NEVER remember anyone that's ever said "look Gladys, original (tail lights, curtains, vents, faucets, upholstery, etc., etc., etc.) What's more important is to make sure you do "professional" mods using professional skills and professional elements. It's NOT a Model T.

Best of luck
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:19 PM   #3
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Cool Pictures?

Donna.

We missed you at Taidnapam. We pray that your Mom is okay.

How about some pictures of your faucet?
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:53 PM   #4
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Thanks

As you can see I have already replaced my "city water" faucet.

The one i the left is a pump like I believe most scamps and other trailers of this generation have.

I want to replace the hand pump on the left with a 12 volt motorized pump but retain this pump housing or something similar

If not a 12V then something that would keep the flow going after the hand pumping stops. Kind of like a well does. Once the water has a vacuum on it and is flowing it will continue until the device is "turned off" so to speak.

Hope this makes sense

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Old 06-14-2013, 09:55 PM   #5
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There are two different approaches to what you want to do;

1. An on/off switch operated, in-line pump. When you turn the switch ON the water flows until it is turned off. This kind of pump is not intended to be used where you also control flow or turn off the faucet.
Advantages: Inexpensive, easy to install, no pressurized water lines.
Disadvantages: Lower pressure/volume, have to work a switch.

2. A pressure/demand pump. This pump has a switch in it's head the detects pressure built up and turns the pump on and off when a faucet is opened and closed.
Advantages: more pressure/volume, automatic operation
Disadvantages: More expensive, more complex installation, waterlines from pump to faucet are pressurized.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:49 PM   #6
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...I just finished my water system in my Trillium project with 12VDC pump. I did add in-line fuse and the fuse rating is determined by formula I= P/V in my other posts with clearly photos. The fresh water tank added, I did numerate tests in different positions(horizontal, vertical....)to reach optimum case. I also make a drain valve with an aluminum pipe going through floor. The whole floor of this area is covered by plastic(bathroom wall board for protecting wooden floor in case of water spillage when servicing). One thing to remind whoever wants to do project according to my own experiences and tests:...1/ Do not mix-up AC fuse and DC fuse-AC fuse with the same rating can't handle the current like DC one- 2/ No interference between city water input and tank output inside the trailer-by using check valve...3/ Park water system has way more pressure than city's one, make sure using good quality hoses and tighten your clamps- ....
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
1. An on/off switch operated, in-line pump. When you turn the switch ON the water flows until it is turned off. This kind of pump is not intended to be used where you also control flow or turn off the faucet.
Advantages: Inexpensive, easy to install, no pressurized water lines.
Disadvantages: Lower pressure/volume, have to work a switch.
Thanks for the tips.

Bob I am thinking an on off "button" so I will be more conservative with water.

If I do this, what sort of faucet will I use instead of the rocket pump.

And is there anything like the rocket pump where once the flow gets going the flow will keep going?
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:07 PM   #8
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Quote:

2. A pressure/demand pump. This pump has a switch in it's head the detects pressure built up and turns the pump on and off when a faucet is opened and closed.
Advantages: more pressure/volume, automatic operation
Disadvantages: More expensive, more complex installation, waterlines from pump to faucet are pressurized.

This is what I had put in ours. I added an on/off switch to it so when traveling or when not actually in the trailer, the water line will not be pressurized (I did use braided lines), incase something lets loose. I don't remember what the original pump style looked like, but does it look close enough to a reverse osmosis sink faucet?
Dave & Paula
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:17 PM   #9
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So with this type of setup the "tank" is pressurized?
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:33 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Thee Jimbo View Post
So with this type of setup the "tank" is pressurized?
No, the water exits the tank, to the pump, then to the faucet, so the only part that is pressurized is the hose from the pump to the faucet.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:55 PM   #11
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Pump Faucet w/ Switch

There is a faucet with a pump ON/OFF switch built into the mounting flange, just for the in-line style low pressure pump. They are commonly found in pop-up tent trailers.

Either check with your local RV dealer or on-line.

The pressure/demand pump will run as long as the faucet is open and stop when it is closed and pressure builds up in the line. But, as mentioned, thats a lot more expensive and complicated to install.

In as much as water still won't flow uphill, about the only system that will keep flowing without a pump is one that pressurizes the water tank, not a system often seen in RV's any longer.

Of course you could put your water tank on the roof and use gravity feed to the faucet. (lol)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thee Jimbo View Post
Thanks for the tips.

Bob I am thinking an on off "button" so I will be more conservative with water.

If I do this, what sort of faucet will I use instead of the rocket pump.

And is there anything like the rocket pump where once the flow gets going the flow will keep going?
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:25 AM   #12
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I just connected the city water inlet and the demand pump outlet to a new high rise faucet with a T fitting. The city water regulator has a one way valve as does the demand pump. Do if I need water, I just open the faucet whether I am connected to city water or have filled the tank.

I did add a switch to prevent accidental operation underway. The high faucet is much more convenient for filling water vessels and rinsing my hands, dishes, etc. Plus I only have one faucet.

Like you, I started out wanting to keep it all original, but I came to realize that it is not a classic car, it is a recreational product and no one cares unless the modification looks like a hack job.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #13
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We have a 12 volt pump thought that was standard?
Will be adding hot water at the sink soon; added a new hot water tank for the toilet shower combo so thought why not hot water at the sink.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:32 PM   #14
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What's standard varies from maker to maker and year to year. The OP's rig was a 1980 Scamp.

Our 2004 Scamp had pressurized cold water only, the 1994 BigFoot came with low pressure cold water only, our 1973 Hunter came only with a hand pump on the sink faucet. All three were updated to full pressure, hot & cold water systems.
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