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Old 09-17-2017, 12:32 PM   #1
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Name: Lisa
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Adding A/C unit to 1992 Scamp - advice sought

I am considering this A/C unit that is from a Casita.
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...309245136.html

I am thinking I can put it in the 14x14 spot where my Fantastic Fan currently is. Plus this would give me AC and heat (which I also don't have).

Two things I wonder about though.
1) Will I need a different or additional breaker at my electrical box: This is what I currently have:


2) I don't think I have the support built into my roof, so can those supports be added?

Thank you in advance, I have scheduled to buy it in a couple of hours, but will not buy it if it doesn't seem feasible.
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:02 PM   #2
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FWIW -

You should check to see if your roof is/was braced for AC.
IIRC, many Scamps of that vintage were not.

If a roof-mounted AC is not feasible, lots of folks use a temporarily-mounted
home window AC placed in the back slider-window spot. With the window and screen
slid over to the passenger side, you should have a 16.5 to 17.5 inch opening that will be
sufficient for a Frigidaire window AC.

Good luck!

Ray
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Old 09-17-2017, 03:26 PM   #3
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Adding A/C unit to 1992 Scamp - advice sought

Thanks for the info Ray but I just bought it. I will try to figure out mounting options. Worst case scenario is it won't work and I will have to sell it.
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1992 Scamp 13' Standard, 2017 Casita 17' ID,
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Old 09-17-2017, 03:27 PM   #4
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Unit is a Coleman with heater strip from 2004.
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lisantica View Post
...2) I don't think I have the support built into my roof, so can those supports be added?...
The factory built-in reinforcement is an extra layer of fiberglass around the A/C mounting area. I have seen a few Scamp factory retrofits of roof A/C and what Scamp did in lieu of that reinforcement was to add two rafter-like braces across the trolley roof forward and aft of the A/C unit. So it's possible, but...

I'm wondering about the BTU output and weight of this unit compared to the unit Scamp installs as OEM on 13'ers. Casita only installs roof A/C on their 17'ers.
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:13 PM   #6
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It's possible I won't be able to use it.
I see the ad is down, here is a photo of it:
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Old 09-17-2017, 04:33 PM   #7
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Gee that's huge. Put wheels and a hitch on it and you could sell it as a camper.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:52 AM   #8
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Adding A/C unit to 1992 Scamp - advice sought

I agree it looks a lot bigger than the one Scamp uses. You might call and ask Scamp what they use. You should be able to find specs for both online.
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
Gee that's huge. Put wheels and a hitch on it and you could sell it as a camper.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I agree it looks a lot bigger than the one Scamp uses. You might call and ask Scamp what they use. You should be able to find specs for both online.
I thought it looked big too, but figured it was because I was looking at it close up.
I'm going to sell this unit that I bought, hopefully recoup my funds, if not lesson learned.
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:44 AM   #10
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BTU's???? I have the Coleman Polar Cub that is 9K Btu. It's large too but certainly does a good job and also has the heat strip. This one could be a 15k? I like the newer Coleman "low profile" models MUCH better than I do the new noisy Dometics Scamp is using now!
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
BTU's????
I can't seem to find the BTU's anywhere. The manual just says it is a 9000 Series.
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:14 AM   #12
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Casita has never used any 15K BTU A/C units on any of their trailers. The unit you have in your picture is in fact the 9,000 BTU Coleman Polar Cub. This particular A/C unit was standard on Casitas (which had A/C) made between 2003 and late 2013, when they changed over to the Mach 8. It weighs in at approx. 70 Lbs, so you will need to bolster your roof in order to retrofit this on your un-reinforced roof. Failure to provide adequate support could be very bad structurally to your trailer's roof, and could cause cracking and separation of the fiberglass.

Also, your single 15 Amp breaker in the electrical panel will need to be supplemented with an additional dedicated 20 Amp circuit breaker just to power the A/C unit, with no other appliances or loads on this same breaker. If your wiring isn't 12 ga. or larger to support the 20 Amp circuit, then this will also need to be upgraded as well.

Is your incoming wiring to the main panel 10 ga.? Is your shore power cord rated for 30 Amps? If not, then again, your wiring will need to be brought up to code to handle the increased loads.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:04 AM   #13
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The "ad" in the OP's first post states that it has a heat strip which will pull more amps than the A/C. Scamp went 14ga on my wiring and I called Kent Eveland's hand on it. Coleman clearly states 12ga wiring and a 20A breaker.

The weight on the roof would be my #1 concern. But there ARE ways to brace it using bracing strips (similar to bulkheads) on each end of the A/C that will help distribute the weight to the sides of the trailer. That will take some craftsmanship and general "modification" efforts to pull off. Definitely not a task for a newbie. But a thought none-the-less.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
Casita has never used any 15K BTU A/C units on any of their trailers. The unit you have in your picture is in fact the 9,000 BTU Coleman Polar Cub. This particular A/C unit was standard on Casitas (which had A/C) made between 2003 and late 2013, when they changed over to the Mach 8. It weighs in at approx. 70 Lbs, so you will need to bolster your roof in order to retrofit this on your un-reinforced roof. Failure to provide adequate support could be very bad structurally to your trailer's roof, and could cause cracking and separation of the fiberglass.

Also, your single 15 Amp breaker in the electrical panel will need to be supplemented with an additional dedicated 20 Amp circuit breaker just to power the A/C unit, with no other appliances or loads on this same breaker. If your wiring isn't 12 ga. or larger to support the 20 Amp circuit, then this will also need to be upgraded as well.

Is your incoming wiring to the main panel 10 ga.? Is your shore power cord rated for 30 Amps? If not, then again, your wiring will need to be brought up to code to handle the increased loads.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:08 AM   #14
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Thanks all for your replies.
I didn't think this through. I am going to sell the unit.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:09 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=Darral T.;662103]The "ad" in the OP's first post states that it has a heat strip which will pull more amps than the A/C. Scamp went 14ga on my wiring and I called Kent Eveland's hand on it. Coleman clearly states 12ga wiring and a 20A breaker.


Makes you wonder how many others out there were installed with undersized wiring...
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:22 AM   #16
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Lisa, I want to nominate you for an award. Perhaps "Woman of Action", or "Go Getter". I am impressed by the speed at which you have gone from zero to sixty, and shared it. You are an inspiration, aside from this A/C issue. Keep us posted.

Boy, this couch sure is comfortable. Is it too early for a nap?
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:46 AM   #17
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I hate to hear that. I guess that makes us 'bearers of bad news'. But unfortunately, that's the real world. Just know it can be done, but not without some pretty good work. Most at this stage will mount one usually at the bottom in a closet or something. But you have to make a hole in the shell if it doesnt exist for another reason.
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom 72 View Post
Lisa, I want to nominate you for an award. Perhaps "Woman of Action", or "Go Getter". I am impressed by the speed at which you have gone from zero to sixty, and shared it. You are an inspiration, aside from this A/C issue. Keep us posted.

Boy, this couch sure is comfortable. Is it too early for a nap?
I accept your award.
Seems I'm always learning a lesson or two, but I don't mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I hate to hear that. I guess that makes us 'bearers of bad news'. But unfortunately, that's the real world. Just know it can be done, but not without some pretty good work. Most at this stage will mount one usually at the bottom in a closet or something. But you have to make a hole in the shell if it doesnt exist for another reason.
I probably should do the closet A/C as that is what would have come from the factory during this 1992 year from what I understand.
Since the weather is getting cooler here, I will likely revisit this topic next summer.
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:22 AM   #19
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You're right Greg...no telling. When I spoke with Kent, he simply said, "We've been using that wire and never 'heard' of a problem." I asked him if he nor his 'engineer(s)' or techs EVER read the appliance manuals??? He couldnt answer that. I told him if I was reordering, it was or WILL be in the contract that they're to use the stated requirement by the manual. But I have no intention of ever owning another Scamp so it's a moot point.

[QUOTE=Casita Greg;662105]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post

Makes you wonder how many others out there were installed with undersized wiring...
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