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10-28-2019, 01:38 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: jon
Trailer: Scamp 13
Washington
Posts: 34
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adding a toilet to a scamp13
hello scamp rv'ers,
does anyone have experience with adding a flush toilet to a scamp 13?
this one already has a room i.e for the shower & toilet. we just use the raised part for a porta potty.
any constructive comments will be appreciated
thanks, jon of sequim
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10-29-2019, 10:54 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Jon,
I take it that you purchased this Scamp 13 used. Does it appear that there might originally have been a flush toilet installed? If so is there still a black water tank underneath the area where your porta potty is? If it's there it might be a simple install with the Dometic unit that Scamp normally installs. If not, perhaps a call or trip to Scamp in Bacus Mn. might be a solution.
Jack
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10-29-2019, 11:32 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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I would try to find someone who owns a similar model and layout, and see it in person. You could match the Scamp install or perhaps even improve on it.
Other options are to just keep the porta-potty and there is some merit to that.
Or a composting commode, which has been done by more than one forum member (think Google Search, restricted to this site).
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10-29-2019, 05:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Scamp sells the Dometic 711-M-28 toilet with the RV holding tank. You may find the toilet and tank cheaper form marine stores but the marine model does not have the bottom 3" discharge. The bottom discharged RV holding tanks are not usually stocked by RV dealers so to get the correct tank P/N to order you will need contact Dometic. Competitive RV suppliers charge about the same as Scamp for the toilet and the RV tank the only savings you might get is to beat Scamps shipping charges. ABS drain fittings are becoming hard to find. The best bet with the drain fittings is to buy them from Scamp. Just tell them what trailer you are installing the toilet in and they will sell you all the fittings you need. Bottom line just order what you need from Scamp. Shipping may be a little high but you will save yourself a lot of headaches. It's a pretty simple install just use the Scamp parts and add a water line.
Eddie
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10-29-2019, 06:24 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Ed's info sounds spot on.. but I might add that if you think you might want to go anywhere close to Backus, MN, then its worth calling Scamp and checking about having them install the commode. Chances are they could do it at a very reasonable price.
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10-31-2019, 05:51 PM
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#6
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Member
Name: jon
Trailer: Scamp 13
Washington
Posts: 34
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toilet retrofit for scamp
hi,
thanks for the excellent ideas on how to approach the retrofit.
now i just have to mull it over and strike out in one direction.
jon of sequim
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10-31-2019, 06:22 PM
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#7
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Member
Name: Cheryl
Trailer: scamp
United States
Posts: 32
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are you certain the black water tank is under the floor? It is a 9 gallon tank above the floor in our Scamp. I am trying to get it out to clean around it. Would love to see any diagrams for how it all fits.
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10-31-2019, 07:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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The 9 gal. tank is mounted above the floor usually with 4 small lag screws. Scamp places a wax ring under the tank to seal it to the floor. To remove a Scamp toilet you have to disconnect the supply water, remove the four screws and cut the 3" ABS drain line at the first 90 degree fitting. The drain line has to be cut so you can unscrew the pipe from the bottom of the tank. All the drain plumbing has to be replaced from the tank to the valve, since all the fittings are glued together and there is no place to put in a coupling. Again just buy all your fittings from Scamp. It's been a while but it will cost you about $50 to clean under the tank.
Eddie
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10-31-2019, 07:28 PM
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#9
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Member
Name: Cheryl
Trailer: scamp
United States
Posts: 32
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[QUOTE=Eddie Longest;759425]... To remove a Scamp toilet you have to disconnect the supply water, remove the four screws and cut the 3" ABS drain line at the first 90 degree fitting. The drain line has to be cut so you can unscrew the pipe from the bottom of the tank. ...
I have released the 4 screws holding the tank to the floor and cut the vent going out the side. When I crawl under the scamp by the drain, I don't see a 90' turn in any pipe. I see a black "thing" pointing straight down. I will have to take a picture tomorrow. I appreciate this info though. Please hang in with me.
Its a 1979 scamp. I will see if I can find a pic of the tank. Its dirtier in person than it looks in the photo. (40 years of eeew)
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10-31-2019, 07:42 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Since you have 79 and a downward discharge you need to just unscrew the pipe out of the bottom of the tank. You may have to remove the valve and temp. reattach the screws and use a strap wrench to unscrew the pipe. Note you have the older discontinued Sealand 911 toilet. Some of the 711 parts/ seals will work on the older toilet but if you break something that's not available you may have to buy a new 711 toilet or go with another option.
Good luck and be careful.
Eddie
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11-01-2019, 08:21 AM
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#11
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Member
Name: Cheryl
Trailer: scamp
United States
Posts: 32
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thanks so much for your input, Eddie. I apologize to the original poster for hijacking this thread, but I asked this question before and didn't get an answer so am super grateful for this info. here is the other question. There is the start of a small crack in the corner of the black water tank. How fatal is this? (Given your caution to be careful, if the tank is toast already, then...)
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11-01-2019, 08:37 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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That tank looks to be fiberglass and fairly easy to repair. The newer 711 tanks are plastic and not so easy to repair. Since the crack is high near the vent I would stop drill the crack and taper the material at the crack and do a fiberglass repair. I would even be tempted to just patch it with white Marine Tex. If the Marine Tex fails you can always grind it out and do a fiberglass repair.
Eddie
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11-01-2019, 08:53 AM
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#13
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Member
Name: Cheryl
Trailer: scamp
United States
Posts: 32
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thanks. this is very helpful
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11-01-2019, 09:22 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest
...I would even be tempted to just patch it with white Marine Tex. If the Marine Tex fails you can always grind it out and do a fiberglass repair.
Eddie
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Would 3M 5200 be just as good an option to attempt as a patch (as Marine Tex?)
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