Advice installing Shady Boy Awning on Burro - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-25-2016, 10:13 PM   #1
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Burro
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Advice installing Shady Boy Awning on Burro

Hello Everyone,

I would like some advice, suggestions, tips and pictures on installing a new Shady Boy awning on my 13ft 1984 Burro. My main concern is where to bolt the thing. My Plan is to center the awning on the Burro, but the double wall shell poses some questions. I don't want to drive a bolt clear through the side of the Burro and risk cracking as the two walls are pulled together when the bolt is tightened. I know higher up on the Burro the 2 shells come together and I would not have to worry about cracking, but that puts the awning fairly high up on the roof. Is there another method of attaching the awning the does not require me drilling through both shells? Rivets?

Thanks for you help!
Tom
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:00 AM   #2
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I don't know anything about the Burro body structure. Fore and aft-wise I'd be inclined make sure to locate it so that it covers the door. You might like being able to have the door open for ventilation when it rains and the awing is up.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:26 AM   #3
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Name: Gary
Trailer: UHaul CT13
Iowa
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One possibility:
My U-Haul came to me with a few eye-bolts through the upper walls, where the previous owner had attached some sort of awning. I haven't checked yet to see if they're through the double-walled part........ but if they are, the sketch below is what I think I'll do to put my own mind at ease about cracking of the thin shells:

[1] Drill a 1" or so diameter hole in the inside wall--sized to match plastic plugs available at auto parts stores. [or salvage yards?]
[2] Helper sticks wire through small hole in outer skin and inside large hole, and I thread a 1x3 reinforcing plate [liberally coated with stout glue or sealant... I like 3M's automotive seam-sealant, which air cures to a firm-but-flexible rubbery consistency, and sticks to most anything... might be part #08193?] with hole predrilled[!], over the wire and through the large inner hole... pressing it into place on the inside of outer shell.
[3] Helper finesses hole alignment from outside, and re-inserts 1/4" eyebolt [with outer nut and fender washer in place] through holes.
[4] I install inside fender washer & nut on inside of outer wall, and snug up inside nut medium-tight, so adhesive/sealant is squished around.
[5] Give it a day to set up, and proceed to re-attach awning.
[6] Touch-up paint on plastic plugs [scuffed & cleaned with alcohol], so they blend in better with camper interior.

On the U-Hauls, I could add a fastener in the little closet area just inside the door, where there's access to the outer wall at the top of the closet.
Just a thought...........
Gary
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16-0726 Awning attachment option-2.jpg  
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Gun View Post
Hello Everyone,

I would like some advice, suggestions, tips and pictures on installing a new Shady Boy awning on my 13ft 1984 Burro. My main concern is where to bolt the thing. My Plan is to center the awning on the Burro, but the double wall shell poses some questions. I don't want to drive a bolt clear through the side of the Burro and risk cracking as the two walls are pulled together when the bolt is tightened. I know higher up on the Burro the 2 shells come together and I would not have to worry about cracking, but that puts the awning fairly high up on the roof. Is there another method of attaching the awning the does not require me drilling through both shells? Rivets?

Thanks for you help!
Tom
Hi Tom

I offset the installation on my Boler. The awning covers the door but is offset to the rear so we have a large area to sit without obstructing access to the door. I really prefer this location compared to the original awning which was centered on the trailer. Use large fender washers on the inside like Gary described. Here is the article on how I installed mine Installing a Shady Boy Awning - Boler-Camping
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:30 AM   #5
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Love our Shady Boy

Ian would know the best way to install a Shady Boy Awning. Thanx for the recommendation, Ian. We love ours!
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:39 PM   #6
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I mounted on my Trillium with 3m vhb tape, as well as three rivets through each mounting plate, I used stainless steel rivets that when pulled form a washer on the back, are closed to keep water out. Was simple and can't see from the inside. Seems solidly mounted to date.

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Old 07-26-2016, 01:27 PM   #7
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You might be able to use these fasteners in your installation:

Click image for larger version

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Your brackets would be your "washers" and the neoprene would be your "sealant". No helper required, and possibly no work on the inside. If you do have to penetrate the interior, nylon acorn nuts look pretty good and won't sweat condensation like metal does.
These hold my solar panels on my Scamp... going on three years now. No movement, no leaks.

Good luck!

Gordon
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:57 PM   #8
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Burro
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Thanks Guys,

Gordon may have the best option. Also, there is good access to the outside shell via the closet. So at least one bolt will be pretty strong.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:59 PM   #9
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They're called Rivet Nuts, or just "Riv-Nuts." They require a specialized tool that is a close cousin of a standard squeeze rivet gun, but instead of a hole in end of the rivet gun that you normally insert the shaft of the rivet into, they have a threaded insert that you first thread the riv-nut onto. After you thread the riv-nut on the end of the gun, flush with the bottom of the threads, you insert it in the hole and squeeze to expand the back. They work just like a rivet, but you use machine screws to fasten your item into them. The trick is to not squeeze until you rip the threads out of it. They don't "pop" like regular rivets, they just mushroom until they are snug in the hole. They come in steel and aluminum. I would recommend the aluminum ones (probably 1/4"-20 for that application,) as they are easier to draw up and expand than the steel ones. I use them for such things as replacing the factory rivets around my microwave and fridge mounting trim so that the next time I have to pull them for some reason, I can just unscrew it and not have to drill out rivets again. Handy items, and they come in a wide assortment of thread sizes and pitches. They even make metric ones as well.
They are a bit pricey, so it may not be everybody's answer, but I like them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/MAR...Nut-Tool-5JK71
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Old 07-26-2016, 03:36 PM   #10
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Hey Greg,

I'm sorry I didn't explain it better, but we're talking about different kinds of expansion nuts. These are the type that I have used:
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_463gym35je_b
These are available at larger hardware stores, and don't require a special tool. However,they DO require the courage to drill some 1/2" holes in your trailer!

Anyway, just wanted to clear that up.

Carry on

Gordon
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Old 07-26-2016, 03:41 PM   #11
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
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The rubber expanding fasteners are called wellnuts.
Fastenal has them.


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Old 07-26-2016, 04:11 PM   #12
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Name: Tom
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What size rubber rivet would you recommend for this application?
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:19 PM   #13
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There is a fair amount of stress on the awning brackets as this awning is basically self supporting. With the double wall construction and without drilling access through the inner wall I think the VHB tape along with stainless steel rivets would be the best alternative
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:24 PM   #14
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You may be right, Ian. I really don't know anything about the anatomy of a Burro. Too little space between the walls...they pull together. Too much space...well...maybe it works, maybe not. Maybe carefully drilling a very small hole in the outer shell at the points of attachment and sticking a pin in the holes would reveal some answers. I also don't know much about the Shady Boy, so I can't estimate the stress it might be subjected to. I DO know that my solar panels go through some serious wind stress and often I have to face oncoming tractor trailers on an undivided highway (Oregon's Rt. 97). I know my rooftop-mounted canoe feels the strain.
So, if I were to mount one on my Scamp (and you've got me thinking about it), I'd use well nuts. I've got great faith in them.

Redbarron55, WE know they're called well nuts, but the average hardware clerk probably doesn't. In fact, on the boxes I've seen, they're labeled as neoprene expansion nuts. For the record, I used 9/16" x 1/2" nuts with 1/4-20 threads.

Good luck, Tommy

Gordon
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