Amerigo Progress......Finally! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-08-2016, 09:05 PM   #15
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Nice work. And that's already a great looking rig with your International TV. How about more pics and info on it?
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:37 PM   #16
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Nice work. And that's already a great looking rig with your International TV. How about more pics and info on it?
Thanks Clive, It's a 74 Scout II, 345 4 bbl 4 speed & it's a blast to drive. I just sold it a few months ago after owning it for 25 years to a neighbor that had been eyeing it for some time.
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:48 AM   #17
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So what are you going to use to pull your camper ?
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:19 AM   #18
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I still have my '04 Silverado, it pulls the Amerigo easily!
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:23 AM   #19
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Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
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In the interest of safety, (and keeping someone from driving thru the back of my Amerigo) I wanted to install a high center mounted third brake light and I had originally planned to mount it externally. Even with LED bulbs, the original lights are mounted fairly low making them easy for the non-alert driver following me to not see them.

I had bought a 17" LED tail / brake light on ebay a while back that I hooked it up to my battery pack and was impressed with the brightness of it. Next I tried it on the inside of the back window to see if the tinted plexi would reduce the visibility by much and again it looked pretty good. I'll make a small bracket that can hold it to the lower part of the window framing and another plus is by putting it inside the camper that's 3 less holes needed in the shell to worry about leaking. I'll also add a strobe controller module to the third brake light so when the brake light comes on it first it quickly flashes 3 times, then flashes 3 times a little slower and after that stays on until the brakes are released. There are dozens of sellers on ebay with these, I ended up buying 2 for under $6 w/free shipping. Here's a link so you can see what to search for: 12V GS 100A LED Brake Stop Light Strobe Flash Module Controller Box for Car | eBay

I've got 2 window frames and the door frame left to rebuild/reseal, then hopefully it'll be water tight so it can set outside again!
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:56 AM   #20
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Great job you're doing here!
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:23 AM   #21
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Looks really good Steve. I was looking at Amerigos when I first started looking at trailers. But having come from a 78 Toyota Chinook that needed to be gutted, and rebuilding that, I was kind of ready for a "non-project"...So I bought a newer trailer.

I need to do the same thing to my frame as you, but was worried about not taking the camper off and getting at the top of the frame, too. But that's not happening for me.

Sounds like it was a few day project for you. Was it too difficult working/sanding/painting around the fiberglass tub? Any advice for the actual hitch/tongue? Not sure how to paint those moving parts.

Anyway, looking good!
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Old 02-28-2016, 12:11 PM   #22
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Looks really good Steve. I was looking at Amerigos when I first started looking at trailers. But having come from a 78 Toyota Chinook that needed to be gutted, and rebuilding that, I was kind of ready for a "non-project"...So I bought a newer trailer.
That's funny because after I explained what I was doing to the Amerigo a good friend said to me "you know how to get around all of that is to buy a new camper!" I certainly didn't expect to be doing this much when I bought it but you move on with it.
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I need to do the same thing to my frame as you, but was worried about not taking the camper off and getting at the top of the frame, too. But that's not happening for me.

Sounds like it was a few day project for you. Was it too difficult working/sanding/painting around the fiberglass tub? Any advice for the actual hitch/tongue? Not sure how to paint those moving parts.

Anyway, looking good!
The majority of the rust on mine was the bottom part, the sides just needed light sanding. I masked the shell with 6" masking paper first next to the frame rails and cross members, I was careful hand sanding the sides close to the shell. If the rust would have been worse or if the frame needed welding/repairs I likely would have had to lift it off, I'm just glad it didn't have to!
I had it on jack stands high enough to roll around under it with a creeper, I started at the front and used a small 1 1/2" brush w/some Rustoleum paint and did the inside of the rails/cross members first then did the outside/bottoms of the rails back to front. By the the third coat you get pretty good at it! On the hitch I'd lift the latch open and paint under the mechanism first, let it dry for a few days then close the latch to paint the rest of the tongue.

Thanks Zach!
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:01 PM   #23
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Thank you!

My Chinook was always parked on the street and one day when I was working on it and it was still mostly gutted, a nice older woman walked by and poked her head in and just sort of shook it and said "too much work".

And boy she wasn't kidding. But once you're in the middle of it, you just go and go till you're done...

It was in retrospect that this time around, I decided "no thanks. not this soon, at least"..
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:18 PM   #24
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Trailer restore:

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The temperature here has been a little cool but I did get some fiberglass work done today.
I'm doing away with the original Thetford "electra magic" toilet so I 'glassed up the hole in the floor for it. I coated the bottom side of the plywood and the cut edges also with fiberglass resin to help seal out moisture, hopefully that will help the new floor last a little longer. If the weather cooperates i hope to get the floors installed next!
: Steve did you use regular Plywood or go to the better stuff called Marine Ply as I have heard this stuff is treated to stand up to water better?
There is a trailer like yours up here and he wants to much money for it it is Trill 5500 but is almost gutted so new person has to figure out how to put it back together?
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:30 PM   #25
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Steve your doing a first class Job

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While the low ride height is good for ease of entry into the camper it was a little scary with the steep entrances to many gas stations & driveways around here. More than once on the trip home I heard the jack bottom scrape while slowly pulling out from a gas stop. While I had the Amerigo up on jack stands I felt it was a good time for my over sprung axle conversion.

From the factory the axle is mounted on top of the spring (first pic). That combined with the 4" dropped spindle makes this one low rider! Moving the axle under the spring is a good way to gain some ground clearance for my needs. This requires welding a new spring perch on the top side of the axle. Dexter does offer a kit to do this but I bought the new spring perches & U-bolts from the local Agri-Supply. I also replaced the shackles, shackle bolts and spring bushings while I was in there. I think all together I spent a little over $20 for the parts. The new spring perch should be welded on top of the axle parallel to the old mount.

Total lift from this conversion is 4 3/4" & the good part is you can easily change it back in under an hour since the old spring perches are still on the axle.
: love the work your doing, never did much wood work myself but a heck of a lot of metal work restoring cars and trucks. The worst screws for us were the Door Hinges, just getting at them was hell then trying to get them out was also hell. But life goes on and there was lots of help around as we had a similar outlet like this one. Just keep showing us your picture on your rebuild as it lets others know just what they would be up against and how much cheaper it is to do your self.
Thanks Again love your work!
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:53 PM   #26
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Great job, Steve. Thanks for the photos. The lift job was a big improvement. Keep up the good work!

Fran
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:04 PM   #27
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Thanks Stude, Restoring classic cars is what I've been doing for the last 35+ years also so redoing this camper has been a little change of pace.

I didn't use the marine grade plywood, I figured the original build lasted 44 years without it so it should go at least that on it's rebuild. The regular sheathing grade plywood had such a bad warp & twist in different directions that I did step up a grade with the one side sanded plywood, it was more $$$ but at least it was a fairly straight and flat piece of wood.

Hopefully I'll be camping in this thing soon instead of just working in it!
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:16 PM   #28
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Another milestone, all of the wood window frames have been been replaced & the windows ~ cargo doors are all installed/resealed.

I probably went overboard on it but I'm hoping the "above & beyond" mindset will prevent and help it withstand any further moisture damage & wood rot.

Here's a few things worth noting to others about to do the same project. The first thing I found after pulling the windows was that every opening in the fiberglass was cut over sized. There is a 3/4" flange on aluminum window frame that the butyl tape sets on that seals to the 'glass body & in some areas there was less than 1/8" of a sealing surface. Not surprisingly those were the same places that had the majority of wood rot. I had to do some fiberglass work to the window openings to get the sealing edge closer to 5/8".

I found 2" clear packing tape made a good guide to get the first layer of 'glass on the lip. I applied the tape from the outside to protect the gelcoat since what I needed to add was going to be underneath the window flange. After the first layer of fiberglass cured I removed the tape and finished building the lip to match the thickness of the existing lip.
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