Amerigo rebuild - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-05-2013, 02:07 PM   #1
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Tennessee
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Amerigo rebuild

I figure it was time to start a thread on my rebuild.
So here is the start! Trailer body up in the air and the trailer frame on the ground. I have been steel brushing the frame getting it ready for the paint.
Good time to pack the bearings and wire up the brakes, install some wire hangers on the frame for the trailer. I also have a list of things and ideas I may or may not use. I can post all of that if your interested and I can use the input for more idea's.

Sam
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:15 AM   #2
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Tennessee
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Here is a list in not much order of things I want to do with the trailer.
I would love input on this and your idea's.

PS pass. side
DS driver side
Everything is based on how it will balance out with towing the trailer.
Hoping to have a nice tongue weight and great towing.

pull out pantry for food and pots pans maybe even dishes?
maps on wall for wall paper
LED night lights inside and out by door
add pull out table or extra work space in kitchen. Could be used outside maybe?
Shower room in the front PS door on PS from middle.
Towel bars in there. along with porta potty
Two batteries in the front and one or two propane
DS front could be a water tank , water heater, water pump Sat tv, GPS (for xm radio), Stereo, Flat Screen, Indoor outdoor temp

May move the FW tank to the back up close to the axle and the gray water tank too?
Bed across the back built higher than normal trailers for more storage and maybe heater, AC, inverter and what else? The AC and Heater will need venting so location is important.

DS Kitchen stove 3 way ref .Hood, the pull out pantry will blend into front wall
Over head Cabinets, for plates cups bowls etc. above kitchen cabinet
3 way ref will need venting for the both the coil cooling fans and he exhaust for the function.

Dining table with two seats on PS this table could fold and go again the wall or something like that for more space. what kind of seats???

1” insulation everywhere, Glue to wall, Tyvek 1” studs,
Run wiring in conduit the blue flex stuff, 110 and 12 volts
LED lights every where
Pex water pipes
Hardwood floors
Fiberglass panels for walls
wood cabinets for kitchen base and cabinets
What to do with clothes under bed? Do I want a closet?
5 gal plastic tanks or my blue ones 15 gals for extra water or gray carry in TV

Outside ac plug Outside propane hook up for grill
Porch light and maybe another light if I have an outside table?
maybe a arch between the bed and the rest of the trailer just for a different look and sort of a divider
Storage
install the leveling jacks on frame love to replace the window! awning ...with zip in bug screens?
Ext cord
diigital tv ant.
Fresh water Hose
Blanket
Spare tire jack and tire tool


To install
stereo
flat sceen
water tank fresh
water tank gray
outside shower
Remote outlet for propane PS
outside table hanger
demand hot water heater
inside shower
water pump
accumulator tank
double sink with tall nozzle/ pull out nozzle
compact vent over stove and direct oven discharge vent
extra insulation on 3 way ref. computer fans for air flow
5000 AC with drain out side
World power/ battery charger
Furnace ? or heater...
Table on PS that can be out of the way,
seats for the table??? wonder what works the best?
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:25 AM   #3
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Sounds like an ambitious project, Sam. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:20 AM   #4
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Hey Jim,

Your right but what i have listed is what most everyone else has in there trailer, I have only added a few things, I am going to use it as a check list so I don't forget to do something, like make sure I plumb the outside propane outlet or shower. There is a lot of work ahead but I am hoping for a great usable trailer.

SAm
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:32 AM   #5
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Sam, could you post a close-up of the axle support brackets and the frame in that area? It looks like there isn't much metal there, but presumably it has lasted this long, so it can't be too weak.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:33 AM   #6
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That's quite a list! I'd suggest breaking it down into chunks... all the plumbing, all the electrical, etc. You'll want to complete those items before you even think about wall coverings, flooring etc. and MAYbe before you put in any part of the interior.

This is going to be a full build to follow
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:42 AM   #7
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axle

Hey Andrew,

The frame is in great shape except for the surface rust, wire brush and paint is making it look new.
I could get more height out of the trailer if I moved the axle to the bottom of the spring. Thinking about that.
Sam
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:56 AM   #8
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Your right also Donna,

I had this to start with:

No kidding on the planning, just think about how to run the plumbing? Do I run the plumbing with the elect? So I don't have to tear everything apart to fix it?
I have to insulate the walls ceiling and floor before I run stuff too, don't want frozen water. I have a lot to think about!!!!
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:19 AM   #9
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Sam, did you read Robert Johan's build on his personal 1974 Boler? Maybe you can pick up some pro tips... http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ain-51745.html
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:49 AM   #10
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Sure did Donna, very nice job and he put in a ton of work for sure. I have that bookmarked for future use. There are others too I have have been looking at!
Forums are great for information!
Sam
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #11
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Sam, thanks for that frame photo. It's interesting to see how they cantilevered the spring mounts out from the frame - not something I would have called 'best practice' but it's clearly worked OK, so that's something new learnt for me.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:48 PM   #12
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Just a few notes about your very good looking build wish list
There are only 1 or 2 demand water heaters that are rated for inside/RV use and they are very expensive. Almost all the small ones you will find are outside use only.
With a complete Do_over I always try to run water and elect in the same spaces. Always run the wires above the plumbing.
You don't need any tubing for wires inside. Use Romex "Type" wire for 120 VAC and good quality #14 or as needed for the 12 VDC side. Keep the 120 and 12 volt runs separated.
Look at the installation instructions for the refrigerator you will be using. Clearances and baffles are very critical for satisfactory operation. It might be a lot easier to plan to use the existing location and build around that.
Good Luck



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Old 01-06-2013, 04:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post
Sam, thanks for that frame photo. It's interesting to see how they cantilevered the spring mounts out from the frame - not something I would have called 'best practice' but it's clearly worked OK, so that's something new learnt for me.
pretty common, even on heavy trucks.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #14
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Yes, cantilevered spring mounts are normal on all but the smallest leaf-sprung trucks, and they work stucturally because those trucks normally have crossmembers which keep the frame from twisting. This trailer design has a crossmember at the front mounts, and another near the rear spring mounts, but is missing one at the bends at the transition to the tongue area. Those bends are pretty questionable, too.

I'm not surprised that the suspension mounts are okay, but the bends not failing seems like sheer luck... or maybe the frame tubing wall is just so thick it makes up for the design.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:20 PM   #15
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Thanks Bob, I plan on venting the heater very well with insulation and thanks for the water/wiring info. I have already boxed in my coils and have two fans to move air across them so my refrigerator is going to work like one should! Pictures will be posted.
Sam
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:22 PM   #16
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Brian,

The frame is in great shape the wall thickness is good too, and not much beefing up can be done, the fiberglass body fits over and round the frame, not just on the top.

Sam
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:46 PM   #17
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update
The trailer brakes are all there almost, just not the puck that makes it all work!
So need some help locating the puck to get my brakes working. Another good thing I was going over my axle, the bearings really needed repacking.
Sam
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:25 PM   #18
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You might be better off just getting loaded backing plates. They're only $40-50 a side.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:32 PM   #19
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These guys are pretty cheap.

http://www.easternmarine.com/Electri...ke-Assemblies/
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:01 PM   #20
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hey Tom, wow they have some great prices!!!
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