Attach wood to gelcoat???

[artspe]

What is the best way to attach a wood block to the gelcoat finish?

I cannot fiberglass it on.

[BCDave]

Originally Posted by artspe

What is the best way to attach a wood block to the gelcoat finish?

Well, since it IS April 1, I'll lead off by suggesting 5 inch spiral Ardox nails. Just be sure you use the coated ones, as you do not want rust streaks running down the side of the trailer....

[Ron F]

If whatever you're attaching is not too heavy, you can use command strips ( All Products:*Refill Strips ).
They're a version of high bonding double sided tape and they can be easily removed.
I used 4 of them to attach this shelf.

Ron

[artspe]

Originally Posted by Ron F

If whatever you're attaching is not too heavy, you can use command strips ( All Products:*Refill Strips ).
They're a version of high bonding double sided tape and they can be easily removed.
I used 4 of them to attach this shelf.

Ron

Ron,

I am making drawers for under the bed. I need to attach a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece of wood on both sides to attach a face board to . Need something permanent.

Art

[Ron F]

I've used 3M 4200 Fast Cure polyurethane adhesive in the past to attach blocks inside the closets. I also used it to re-face the kitchen when I installed the propane furnace. The re-facing is holding well, but it also has help from some of the appliances, and it's not really carrying any weight. I can't say how well it will hold on the smoother surface of gel coat, if it had to support any significant weight.

Depending on where you're placing the blocks, you could always use wood screws from the interior of the storage areas? I hate to drill holes anywhere if I can help it, but sometimes it's the only reliable method.

Here's what I did for my drawers.

[Robert Johans]

I've used automotive adhesives like 3M Duramix 4240. This is a two-part mix that requires a professional's application "gun" (usually available for rent). Sets up fast. Works great. I recommend that you scuff up the gelcoat area (use masking tape to create edges) before you glue.

[john warren]

Originally Posted by Ron F

I've used 3M 4200 Fast Cure polyurethane adhesive in the past to attach blocks inside the closets. I also used it to re-face the kitchen when I installed the propane furnace. The re-facing is holding well, but it also has help from some of the appliances, and it's not really carrying any weight. I can't say how well it will hold on the smoother surface of gel coat, if it had to support any significant weight.

Depending on where you're placing the blocks, you could always use wood screws from the interior of the storage areas? I hate to drill holes anywhere if I can help it, but sometimes it's the only reliable method.

Here's what I did for my drawers.

i like those under the bed drawers. can you remove the whole unit if your planning on using the dinette once in awhile?
seems like i could work that up. sometimes we take the camper for a day trip just so we can have a comfy place to sit and eat .like a trip to the museum , or zoo.

[David B.]

You could use JB Weld. It's a 2 part system. Just squeeze some from each tube, mix, and apply. It will need support until dry. They offer regular and a Quick Dry formula.

[Ron F]

John,
Our EggCamper has a permanent bed and a small side dinnette. The drawers work great for us, since we can remove the plastic tubs, take them in the house to pack, then just throw them in the trailer and we're set to go. The wheels are from Rockler. I did add a closet pole across the bottom front of the drawers for travel. The catches on the small handles just didn't hold them in on the road.

Ron

[Donna D.]

I would imagine it would need to be supported, but peterh said this about 3M 4200:

Most marine stores carry the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant products; the "Fast Cure 4200" product should work well for most fiberglass trailer applications as long as you want the thing you're sticking on to be permanently attached;

So here's where I'll use 3M 4200: to permanently attach the plastic hatch frames I just bought into the holes I've cut in my trailer's sides. 4200 is a good choice because, unlike butyl tape, 4200 will bond the frame to the fiberglass, allowing stresses to be borne by both fiberglass shell and the hatch frames, and this'll prevent stress cracking in the fiberglass at the corners of the hatch.

a tube of 4200 costs something like $20 and has to be used within 48 hours of when the seal is broken;

I copied this info from this thread, which has nothing to do with what you're asking... I just came across the info: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/butyl-tape-vs-butyl-caulk-newbie-looking-for-input-34669.html#post142167

[Swamp Yankee]

3M 4200 will hold a lot, 5200 even more; both are permanent adhesives. Kind of depends on how much weight said block will have to hold.

[Mouse]

Drilling holes for bolts to attach something to a fiberglass panel is more reversible than glueing the something to it.

If you can reach the other side drill small holes for 6/32 or 8/32 bolts and use stop nuts. If you are drilling into a blind space use 6/32 or 8/32 well nuts.

You can fill the holes with epoxy putty later if you change your mind.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Mouse

Drilling holes for bolts to attach something to a fiberglass panel is more reversible than glueing the something to it.

If you can reach the other side drill small holes for 6/32 or 8/32 bolts and use stop nuts. If you are drilling into a blind space use 6/32 or 8/32 well nuts.

You can fill the holes with epoxy putty later if you change your mind.

That's fine Brooke, except Art has an Eggcamper and it's double-hulled... no through bolts, screws or rivets. No point starting now!

[Mouse]

I have a uhaul. Well nuts work great to attach things where you can't get to the other side and they seal the hole from moisture too.

[Ron F]

Art,
Where exactly are you attaching the blocks? If you're installing drawers beneath the bed, I'm assuming they're not being attached to the outside shell of the camper.
Ron

[artspe]

Thanks for the input. I want it to be permenant to I'll use a 2 part epoxy AND nuts and bolts. Also will be putting a white formica face on the front frame and drawer fronts. Hope it works. Ron, the idea of the side frames being fixed is so the drawers can be locked shut.

Art

[artspe]

Originally Posted by Ron F

Art,
Where exactly are you attaching the blocks? If you're installing drawers beneath the bed, I'm assuming they're not being attached to the outside shell of the camper.
Ron

On the inside sidewalls. I cut a one piece top for the bed and cut a one piece plywood front with a 1 1/2" lip on either side. The blocks are to hold those side pieces fixed so I can lock the drawers in place. As you know, you need something solid to keep everything from moving forward when traveling. I hope this will work.

Art

[Ron F]

Art,
I understand. The small latches on the handles for my drawers were no match for potholes, etc.. So, I wound up using one of those expanding closet poles to keep things where they belong. I screwed closet pole pockets near the floor in front of the drawers. When we're on the road, I install the closet pole to hold the drawers in place.
Your solution sounds more professional and foolproof.
Ron

[artspe]

Ron,

Do you have that dead space next to the sink cabinet also? I have fitted a piece of wood to fill it (could not even get a vacum to go in such a small space to clean).

I couldn't find the wheels you have so i'm going to try some small wheels that attach to the bottom, if that doesn't work well, I'll buy some super long drawer tracts to fasten to the floor (tho they may hurt when I have to crawl under the bed).

Art

[Ron F]

Art,
I just went out to the Rockler web site and it looks like they don't carry the rollers any more. But, I found a source here: Bed Box Rollers | Woodworking Showcase .

Yes, I do have the gap between the back end of the kitchen and the front of the bed. If you look at the photos that I posted earlier, you'll recognize it. There seems to always be something dropping in the gap. A filler is a good idea.

I thought about drawer slides for the under-bed drawers, but they would have to be super long. When I went looking for the super long ones, the prices were very scary. I've since thought about pairing shorter drawer slides, and somehow mounting them to a piece of wood such that when one is fully extended, the second one in the pair would extend. I haven't worked it out completely, but I know I could buy two dozen or more 22" slides for the price of on set of 44' slides.

With the rollers, I don't worry to much about tracks. The drawers roll in pretty straight and if they're a bit crooked, I just nudge them where I want them to be.

Ron