attaching a small wooden cabinet to the wall??? help - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-18-2016, 10:27 AM   #1
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Name: Sierra
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Smile attaching a small wooden cabinet to the wall??? help

Hello helpful and creative people of FGRV!
I am trying to attach this little wooden antique cabinet I found at a thrift store for only $6 to the interior wall near the bed/dinet area as a repurposed nightstand. What type or glue will hold up the 5-10 lbs cabinet to the wall? (see pics)
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:13 AM   #2
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To which wall are you wanting to attach it?

Offhand, I wouldn't use glue, unless it is to glue tabbing to an exterior wall to screw into.

How about attaching it to the dinette-facing side of the closet? Then you could use small bolts through the cabinet wall.

You may want to consider replacing the regular glass with plexiglass for safety.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:37 AM   #3
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I for one do not like the idea of making any holes in the shell... so here is a way to avoid that:
  1. Cut two pieces of wood the same height and width as the vertical pieces on the back of the cabinet. (1/2 inch thick)
  2. Remove everything down to the fiberglass in the area you want the cabinet.
  3. Glass in the wood pieces to the shell.
  4. Reattach insulation, rat fur (or whatever you have as a interior finish) around the glassed in wood.
  5. Attach the cabinet with wood screws into the newly glassed in wood, being careful not to go through the shell. You could countersink the screws and use wood plugs to make it pretty.

You might be able to use some other part of the cabinet frame, where is has good strength, and where the screws would be hidden.

And yes, its a lot of work for a $6 cabinet.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:02 AM   #4
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Late thought... VHB tape to the closet? Assuming it's fiberglass, it should be removable if desired later and no holes required. It might mar the back of the curio cabinet if you do remove it at some point, but it doesn't sound like that's a big deal with a $6 thrift store item.
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Old 09-19-2016, 02:43 PM   #5
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hello,
thank you for your responses.
Yes I plan to put it on the dinette-facing side of the closet wall, which is already bare. This way I won't be putting any holes in the exterior shell (bad idea). What would the best way to attach it to that interior wall?
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Late thought... VHB tape to the closet? Assuming it's fiberglass, it should be removable if desired later and no holes required. It might mar the back of the curio cabinet if you do remove it at some point, but it doesn't sound like that's a big deal with a $6 thrift store item.
I have had nothing but failure when using VHB tape on wood. It would have to have a solid smooth, glossy surface I would think.. You can read up on proper materials and prep on the 3M site but I would rather mechanically attach something that VHB would work well with to the back of the cabinet (if trying to avoid drilling holes and instead using VHB ). I have used marine board in a similar install and it has worked well so far (8 months), but it does feel like it has loosened a little after weeks of near 100 degree (F) heat inside the camper.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:36 PM   #7
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I'm not opposed to drilling holes in the side of the closet wall near the bed-space where the cabinet will go. Would it be a better idea to screw into the wood/wall or use adhesives?
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:56 PM   #8
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Before you go to all that trouble, I'd examine that cupboard to see if it's built strong enough for your purpose. And, I'd replace that glass door ( I suspect ) with plexi.
Nothing that you put in that cupboard or on the shelves will be where you left it after the trailer travels a few feet.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:41 PM   #9
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I have had lots of good outcomes using the scotch or 3m mounting tapes. Especially the exterior one. We went down plenty of washboard roads all this summer and the stuff we put up didn't move a bit. You would have to used quite a bit for this application but might be a good alternative to drilling holes for sure!
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:04 PM   #10
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Trying not to be negative here but I think one good bumpy road and I think you will find it has self destructed. I would not store anything in it while driving without a latch that will hold it shut. I think its made of mahogany and the screws that hold the hinges and latch will probably pull out under the beating it will take in the trailer. From the picture , it looks like the frame around the door is starting to separate and will need to be glued. These shelves were designed for household use not in a bouncy trailer where the g forces will increase the impact forces 2 or 3 times.
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:33 AM   #11
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If you want it you can make it happen

On the inside of the cabinet add two blocks of wood that you glue to the back of the cabinet. Position one just below the top of the cabinet, the other one position just below a shelf.

To mount the cabinet you will be putting screws that embed into those blocks. The screws heads will on the inside wall of the closet. In order to locate everything you will need to take measurements of the distance between where you want the hole locations and make a template or just put some masking tape on the closet wall and lay out those holes and also mark the edges of the cabinet location on the tape. Now drill the holes in the closet wall. Then with an assistant hold the cabinet in position, drill short little pilot holes into those blocks in the cabinet and then drive in the screws. It will not fall of the wall

If you are concerned about the door hinges coming loose take out the screws and put a little super glue under the hinges. You can do the same thing for the mounts for the catch. I like the Gorilla Glue brand of gel superglue for that purpose, it is a rubber fortified formula that is shock resistant. It bonds well to metal and wood.

If the door gives you trouble with coming open put in a couple of brass screws and use little cloth covered hair tie rubber band stretched between them to hold it closed while under way.

Sure the glue on vintage pieces can get brittle and fracture. If that happens it is likely hide glue and can be removed with scraping and a bit of heat then just glue it together with clear flexible caulking that is rated as an adhesive. That stuff holds up to all kinds of movement without ever letting go.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:19 PM   #12
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Smile

thank you!
Your advice is detailed and simple. I will be using your guidelines this week and I'll be sure to post some photos of the result!
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