atwood gas water heater

[Snowberry]

I want to modify my propane water heater (atwood 6 gallon, model G6A-7) to add the capability to use electric w/o changing the unit. I have a scamp 13
yr 2014. Can I do that? thanks for the help and info.

[Jon Vermilye]

You can add a "Hot Rod" element - one example: (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-11673-Wa.../dp/B0024ECCJW). It will heat much slower than on gas or compared to a water heater with built in electric because the element is fairly low wattage (425 watts compared to 1500 for a built in element), but it works.

[Radar1]

Many people have used the Hott rod conversion kit successfully, but it may void any warranty from Atwood. We haven't tried it yet since our water heater doesn't seem to use a whole lot of propane, plus I don't know if it would contribute to corrosion.

[WaltP]

Take a look at the Hott Rod.

Hott Rod Water Heater Accessory - PPL Motor Homes

I have another question for the Atwood. The plastic drainage plug broke apart on mine and so far I can't find a replacement.
Because the Atwood tank is aluminum it doesn't need an anode, but the drain port is the same as the drain/anode port on the steel Suburban tank. Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot carry a simple plug that size. While at it I'd prefer to find a brass plug to replace the broken plastic one.

Most fg trailers use the Suburban tank and wouldn't run across this problem.

Walt

[mary and bob]

I installed the Hott Rod electric conversion in our '96 Casita and am very happy with it. We spend a couple months in one location in the winter so plugged in to shore power all that time. Then for one month we moved every couple days and it still worked great. Bought it from Amazon. I did buy the switch kit but didn't use it, instead I put in an outlet with a switch. When you install the Hott Rod, there is a temperature sensor that has to go against the side of the tank, so be sure you can get at it. Have to cut away some insulation and stick that sensor against the bare metal of the tank

[Wayne Collins]

I replaced the plastic drain plug with a reducer and length of 3/8" galvanized pipe
with a cap, to extend the drain out to just inside the access cover. It makes removing the cap easier, and lets the water run out into a bucket, instead of splashing all over the place

[Thom Rowland]

I used the Hot Rod in a previous camper I had. It worked good when connected to external power. However I rarely camp like that anymore so I don't have one in my current camper. I almost always boondock. I probably haven't installed one because it goes where the drain plug goes and makes it a little more difficult to drain the tank at the end of camping season.

[Thom Rowland]

The plastic drainage plug broke apart on mine and so far I can't find a replacement.



There are replacement plugs available at Camping World:
RV Water Heater Drain Plug Kit - Camco 11633 - Water Heaters - Camping World

[Radar1]

Originally Posted by Thom Rowland

The plastic drainage plug broke apart on mine and so far I can't find a replacement.



There are replacement plugs available at Camping World:
RV Water Heater Drain Plug Kit - Camco 11633 - Water Heaters - Camping World

Also available on Amazon.com if you can't get to a Camping world.

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by Radar1

Also available on Amazon.com if you can't get to a Camping world.

Thanks Thom and Radar. I've ordered it from Amazon, but if anyone finds a brass one, I'd happily double up.

Walt

[steve dunham]

Any RV dealer has the plastic plugs . I bought a package of 2 for a couple of bucks . I would be cautious about installing a steel or brass plug in an aluminum tank. There is a reason Atwood uses a plastic plug and not a metal plug . The drain plug on an Atwood water heater is 1/2" NPT , the anode / drain opening on a Suburban water heater is 3/4" NPT.

[Jack L]

Atwood uses a plastic plug for a reason. Brass and aluminum do not get along too well. You will get some corrosion from the reaction of dissimilar metals. Stainless steel would be a better choice.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hello,

You could probably find a brass plug at ACE Hardware.

I broke my plastic plug and bought a PVC pipe one at
Home Depot... works OK.

Larry H

[Thom Rowland]

I don't think that I would use a brass drain plug myself due to dissimilar metal corrosion caused by electrolysis.

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by Jack L

Atwood uses a plastic plug for a reason. Brass and aluminum do not get along too well. You will get some corrosion from the reaction of dissimilar metals. Stainless steel would be a better choice.

You're right of course. And I'd gladly pay the extra for a SS one.
When the plastic ones from Amazon come in I'll take one around and see if I can find a metal one.

Walt

[Snowberry]

Jon V
Great input, thanks! wattage matters but I don't have problem waiting.
If I am camping I have the time and you know I really don't need hot water
all i need is a little warm water. thanks again and have wonderfull day.

[Jack L]

Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye

You can add a "Hot Rod" element - one example: (Robot Check). It will heat much slower than on gas or compared to a water heater with built in electric because the element is fairly low wattage (425 watts compared to 1500 for a built in element), but it works.

A 425 watt element will work very well -slowly, but very well- with a small generator. I used one with my boat years ago. I had a small Honda generator, less than 1000 watts and loved the set up.

[Glenn Baglo]

What's the problem that's being solved?
My water heater runs on propane only. I turn it on for about 15 or 20 minutes in the morning and turn it off. Uses very little propane. If all you want is warm water, it will still be warm many hours later.
Heater gets turned on again for 15 min. after supper for dishes and gets turned on for showers.

[mary and bob]

[QUOTE=Glenn Baglo;581030]What's the problem that's being solved?
E]

The problem I solved was carrying propane tanks that I didn't use for anything else and paying for a refill once a month. Campground electric where we go is included in the daily rate. Not that the money was an issue, I just wanted to cut down the tongue weight

[Darral T.]

Same here as Mary & Bob. I completely removed my propane tank. Use one $9 hot plate and a toaster oven (to which I've used from day 1). I use the Hot Rod, have it wired into my breaker box with its own breaker. I have a slot cut in the front of my breaker box cover (for my finger) so a switch can not accidentally be turned on. IF you turn it on and there's no water in the tank....you might get 1 minute out of the unit without burning it up. Be fore-warned!

There's no going outside to light my tank as before. It's very quiet and runs without even knowing it's there. Cheap upgrade that I would not be without now. I use nylon bushings and a special tool I made for the setup to remove all...like a "crow's foot". The bushings can easily be purchased at a "Tractor Supply" store (TSC).