Awning for Scamp 13 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-09-2016, 07:54 AM   #15
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 16
I've heard of people using 3M VHB (very high bond) tape. Two requirements: the area you're installing it in must be clean of wax, oxidation, etc., and you need a very consistent gap between the awning channel and the roof. Even a 2mm gap can collect dirt and then permit wind/rain/etc to peel it back a little, gradually opening the gap.

VHB tape is what's used on modern car emblems and trim pieces. If the fit is precise, it's "permanent".

For what it's worth, I used the belt and suspenders method to install my rail: drilled holes were filled with silicone caulk, then the butyl tape was applied to the entire rail, and when my screws and/or rivets were attached, the butyl tape "squished" a bit. After all was said and done, I used a Popsicle stick to smooth/push the slightly squirted butyl "putty" back into the gap between the awning rail and camper.

Note: I did NOT squeeze all of the putty out as I tightened. For the stainless screws, I used nylock nuts to prevent them from backing out.

After the rail was installed, I caulked the "up" side of the rail, then put caulk over the screw heads before installing the vinyl trim that covers the screws.


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Old 08-09-2016, 08:15 AM   #16
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtec View Post
Speaking of awnings, has anyone considered something like this and installing an awning track?



Reimo Caravan Sun Canopy - Travel Trailer Awning Canopies - Travel Trailer Awnings - RV Awnings RV & Auto



And speaking of awning tracks, like I said in another post, I don't like drilling holes on my beautiful fiberglass body (same as my own body and tattoos), so has anyone stuck one one with adhesive strip? Or is that not even close to strong enough?



I would have just gotten an installed awning on and used it only in perfect weather, but the Casita we found does not have a factory mounted canopy.


I was going to post this same question! I have an awning the PO threw in with my 13' Scamp, but it's made to attach to the roof rack of the TV. My handy friend made me a couple of aluminum brackets to attach it to the Scamp, but I have not done it.

I read a post by someone who attached solar panels using only the 3m adhesive that's made for aircraft. Thought it might be possible to do the same with the awning. Thoughts?

Jen


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Old 08-10-2016, 11:20 AM   #17
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Compact Jr
California
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Awning for Scamp 13

I am interested in adding such an awning to my Hunter II but would have to drill holes and rivet the awning rail which could then pose added leak problems...

How did you attach the awning rail?

And how has others does this and have anyone had leaking problems?

thank you, jim
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:49 AM   #18
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Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Manitoba
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Another way to connect to trailer

A while ago I read a post by Ginny and Norm, I think, that described their awning. They put 3M Command hooks on the roof of the trailer and put plastic piping through a seam at the top of the awning and slid that over the hooks. The tension between the hooks and the poles at the front end would hold the awing in place.
I don't have time to find their original thread but will do so later. I am just on a quick break from removing tar from my trailer roof and need to get it done before the rain comes again.
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:20 PM   #19
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by Jim in Ramona View Post
I am interested in adding such an awning to my Hunter II but would have to drill holes and rivet the awning rail which could then pose added leak problems...

How did you attach the awning rail?


Jim

See my post above regarding butyl tape and silicone caulk.


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Old 02-01-2017, 02:22 PM   #20
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Name: Vic
Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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awning track

Adhering an awning track to the fiberglass/gel coat is not a problem. Use Sika Flex. This is a Europe product. u.s. companies cannot manufacture a product as flexible and strong as this. Used by Bombardier for most of their "go trains" production. It is fabulous stuff and not that expensive. You will not find it in local hardware stores or lumber yards, you have to deal with a construction adhesive supplier. If the body has a slight curve and you have to push the track down to make contact, that may be a problem because it will take about two days for the Sika Flex to cure and bond.
Vic
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Old 02-01-2017, 03:16 PM   #21
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17 SD
Under the sea
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Registry
I don't know if you have West Marine boating supply stores up north, but I buy Sika-Flex all the time at any West Marine store here in the States. It's a normally stocked item on the shelf. If you don't have a West marine, perhaps another marine outfitter may carry it.

And it is one of my favorite adhesive sealants as well.
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:00 AM   #22
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Name: Gerry
Trailer: Boler 13 ft / 31 ft Holiday Rambler
Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Ramona View Post
I am interested in adding such an awning to my Hunter II but would have to drill holes and rivet the awning rail which could then pose added leak problems...

How did you attach the awning rail?

And how has others does this and have anyone had leaking problems?

thank you, jim
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Jim, we got a new bag awning for our Boler 1300 and got a real great deal on a mistake order from a dealer but it was a foot longer then my old awning so had to order new rail. Here is how I attached it:

Held up new rail in position I wanted it and drilled first one hole on end while wife held it level and in place at other end. Put in a small bolt with nut on inside to hold it in place.
Drilled 2nd hole about 1/2 down the rail, inside closet area and bolted that.
Drilled other end and bolted that.
Now with the rail in place drilled all remaining holes just through the shell not the inulite or finish inside. Use a block on your drill bit to only leave about 1/8 head of bit out to make sure you do not go through.
Take rail down, put bead of Dicor Lap sealent to back of rail and with wifes help put rail back on trailer with the 3 bolts again holding it on but not too tight to make it buckle.
Starting at one end, took proper lenght rivet, put on one of those cream colored screw cover buttons, comlete with covers, you buy at hardware stores, Take 1st bolt out and push rivet into hole hard and rivet into place.
Do same with 2nd bolt hole then other end.
I worked the middle of these 2 spans and did the same and every time going to the middle of the spans to eliminate any deformities the Lap Seal may cause.
After all riveted I then put a dab of Lap Seal in each button and closed cover.
No Leaks....Looks good inside and out. which is important to wife
Only slight hole that one can see is in cabinets so really out of sight.
Good Luck
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:46 PM   #23
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,126
Great job I wish I knew how to make that stitched seam in picture 3. My old school singer 401A should be able to do it
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:38 PM   #24
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Name: Susan
Trailer: Getting Scamp 13' September 2017
Washington
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Stitched Seam

Steve, That seam looks like a form of a French seam. I just checked and there's a ton of YouTubes on French seams.
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:50 PM   #25
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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OK thank You, I'll look up French seam.
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