Awning Install - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-06-2014, 06:34 AM   #29
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
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Dear Ruscal, Donna and Mary and Bob,
Thank you, thank you for all of your posts! Donna, I'm going to check out that thread as well, on the special 3m tape/adhesive. I did put an e-mail in to Scamp to see what they would suggest as well. Well, I'm back to work today everyone so I will be back on as soon as the initial mayhem calms down a bit!
Ruscal, after I read your post I did write Scamp about "how they do it" and what they would recommend if someone else did it here locally for me. Going to Backus isn't going to happen for me - at least not right now! Mary and Bob, I'm going to practice riveting, too, but I don't have an air compressor, just a hand riveter. I probably should think about investing in one of those one day.
Happy Monday everyone!

Sincerely,
Wendy Lee (CampyTime)
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:46 AM   #30
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Name: Eddie
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Wendy
A little late to the thread but I'll add a little info. The Scamp shell on average is about 3/16" thick and it is thicker around your door frame and curves around the trolley top. The ratfur is not attached directly to the shell, you have about a 3/8-1/2" layer of refletix between the ratfur and the shell. You should be able to install rivets and they will not be visible because the expanded portion of the rivet will be in the refletix under the rat fur.
Scamp does not use backer washers behind their pop rivets, I usually do use them when accessible , but not so in this case. If I were installing an awning slide rail I would through bolt both ends with a stainless bolt, fender washer on the inside and use a nylock nut, and maybe a center bolt to come through in the closet area. 3/16 X 1/2 long pop rivet is the size I would start with and see how it works out. Also start from the center and install hardware working outward. Drilling with a regular drill will be ok, you will feel when you break through the fiberglass and the refletix will give enough space to keep the bit out of the ratfur if you are careful. But if needed you could use a drill stop as suggested earlier. If you feel you need to shim up the ends of the track white PVC house trim is good for making white shims.
Eddie
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:03 PM   #31
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
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When I mounted my awning I did like Greg did and my bolts were inside the cabinets. In the span between the bolts I used 3/16ths pop rivets with no backer since the center and ends were bolted. I used butyl tape under the whole mounting rail. If I didnt have end cabinets and the hardware would show I would drill the 3/16 hole for the bolts and then stick a nail through the hole to locate it on the inside and then make a 2 inch slit in the fabric and reflextic and place the fender washer under the insulation and bolt up the rail. Then I would hotmelt glue the slit seams I cut back together. They would almost be invisible when done. Much better than a bunch of hardware showing. Make sure you use a new sharp razor blade when making the slit so you get a clean cut. I have a slider window in the back of my trailer so when I travel or store the trailer I keep the awning inside the trailer it keeps it clean and unweathered. When I camp I just slide it back in its rail. Should last forever this way and easier to wash the trailer too. I store my trailer in the direct sunlight everyday so its best for me to protect it this way for the long term.
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:02 PM   #32
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Name: Wendy Lee
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Dearest Eddie and Stevebaz,
My oh my, you two have really brought out some nitty gritty details. I'm going to save them to recall later. I hate to drag out this thread any longer and be even more needy, so I think I will private message the both of you with some remaining questions. Unless...others viewing this thread like the help of these seasoned experts as well!

Warmly,
CampyTime (Wendy)
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:31 PM   #33
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My last thought is an awning on any brand of 13' trailer is pretty small. What...maybe 7-8' in width at most (due to curve of trailer and the box is only 10' long to begin with). Then most awnings only extend 7'. So at most you'd have a 7' (or 8')x7' awning (I think). Maybe a movable canopy would be a better (cheaper) alternative? Those are usually 10'x10'....
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:42 PM   #34
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The awning I have on my 13' Burro is 7'x7' and I feel it is just right. 8' would be to long.



Oh, and I used rivets to install my awning rail.
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:51 PM   #35
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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Right on, Donna. Our awning is 7 X 7. We don't use it to sit under, we have a 12 X 12 screen room for that plus a 10 X 10 canopy with one full side and two half sides that our grill and bikes are in. The awning mainly keeps the rain off for entering and exiting. Unless the canopy was put over the trailer (we tried that too) it will shed rain against the trailer if set up alongside. Costs we have experienced: screen room $400, bag awning $200, free standing canopy $120, rope & pole awning that we didn't keep, sold at a loss $200. We now have a setup that we are happy with.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:10 AM   #36
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Name: Wendy Lee
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Hi Donna, Mary and Bob and Gage,
I went out to Sam's Club the other day (before this winter blizzard) and looked at an EZ Up canopy they had for $199. Great price, as it comes with the side walls too. But Gosh! It's 5 feet long and weighs about 60 pounds. I, too, was concerned about height, but this model (at 6' 10") would be high enough, but I kind of thought what Mary and Bob just said...that rain would just wash over the side of the trailer anyway.
Further, I'm changing tow vehicles at some point and moving to an SUV. My truck will go to my son either the end of this year or next. I don't want to have to add a cap to another truck, when I could just get an enclosed SUV and put all my gear in the back. In a 13, I have even less room than a pop up camper (which I used to have before falling in love with the Scamp), so keeping things in a vehicle, locked up, will be a necessity still while camping. The idea of lugging yet another piece of equipment - a canopy - is something that I'm noodling on, but probably not in my heart of hearts.
I'm thinking that I'm pretty much sold on an awning now to attach to the trailer. Hey, by the way everyone, I wrote to Shademaker Awning and he talked about installing with a type of rivet called a "peel rivet." Interesting...have any of you ever heard of that? Here's his quote...

Mount the awning rail directly to the shell of the Scamp, but because the shell is rounded, you will probably have to use a shorter piece to avoid the rounded areas. There is a particular type of rivet called a peel rivet that is well suited to fiberglass. It is very similar to some of the gypsum wall fasteners in that, as they are pulled, the rivet splits into 4 lengthwise segments that double back on themselves and form a large gripping surface on the back side of the fiberglass shell.

Sincerely,
Wendy (CampyTime)
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:01 AM   #37
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I hadn't heard of the "peel" type rivet, so looked them up at my favorite supplier, McMaster Carr, and they have them in various sizes. Didn't check the price though and I believe they come in quantities of 50. Very good info from Shademaker I would say. Carrying a free standing canopy does take up extra space. We mainly travel with a 2003 Honda CRV, and it is quite full with our stuff. Because of being out for over 3 months this trip we also use a roof top carrier. We have packed so that the only things we had to move out of the trailer for overnight stops were two folding camp chairs. We still have our old Starcraft popup, but haven't used it in a couple years.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:23 PM   #38
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Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
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Also called bulb rivets:


http://www.rivetstop.com/TriBulb-Riv...S/b/6466289011

( Not necessarily this size, just gives you an idea what you're looking for. )
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:38 PM   #39
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note that Mc Master recommends a #6 drill. On regular 3/16 rivets I use a # 11 or 12 which is slightly larger than 3/16 and makes it easier to insert the rivet. I would certainly use either the peel or tribulb rivets on fiberglass, although I had no issues with the standard pop rivets.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:46 PM   #40
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Name: Francesca Knowles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
The idea of lugging yet another piece of equipment - a canopy - is something that I'm noodling on, but probably not in my heart of hearts.
I'm thinking that I'm pretty much sold on an awning now to attach to the trailer.
My sentiments exactly.

My tug is a Kia Sportage, and hauling space is very limited. That's a main reason I installed a regular pulldown awning on my Trillium. Letting the trailer carry it made the most sense, space wise.This not to mention the ease of deployment/stowing, which take less than a minute each. Don't have a pic of it open, but here's what it looks like closed:
Click image for larger version

Name:	<a title=Trillium at Twin Lakes.jpg Views: 15 Size: 285.2 KB ID: 67484" style="margin: 2px" />

I'd struggled with most of the combinations mentioned here before buying the pulldown- didn't even realize that any small enough was available until I saw an Outback with one. (See below pic) The only difference between the awning in that pic and mine is the length of the awning tube.

The dimensions of the Outback (And the current crop of Trillium 1300's) are very nearly the same as those of your Scamp, and the awning they install would very likely fit a Scamp. There may be small differences in body curvature, but I doubt they'd be significant enough to preclude the use of this arm setup; and tube length is customizable.

Pic from this page

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Old 01-07-2014, 03:26 PM   #41
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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A Coleman Max canopy clears our scamp 13 drip edge with legs fully extended. I'm pretty sure it was around $125. I like that I don't have to have it right next to our camper for sites were it makes sense to move it out. I like the large size, and that I can use it when not camping for picnics etc.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Instant-Canopy-12-x-12/16663595#ProductDetail

What I don't like so much is the weight and bulk, we end up just setting it on the front couch for transport. Some extra weight at the hitch is generally good right?

Wife and myself just set it up and walk it over the camper but I have been considering some of those foam pipe wraps on the legs to make sure in a high wind the legs can not bang the trailer and cause damage. I stake out the lines at the corners as well as staking down the legs for a lot of stability but will feel better if there was padding around the legs next to the camper.
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #42
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Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
Georgia
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Francesca, may I ask what brand your awning is and where to shop? I'm trying to find one that my parents can manage. The bag awnings are out of their reach, and I don't want them climbing stools.
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